So after a long nine hour trip to, thru, and from the NC mountains this weekend, the head gasket popped. I pushed her hard, and today when I start her up and let her idle, she starts spittin' oil out the left rear of the cylinder to head seam.

My question is, do you think the rings are shot? Sounds like it runs fine with no scraping or grinding, it just gushes oil, the compression pushes up to 150 lbs.,  on that left cylinder, after about ten cranks of the engine.

Sounds like the engine is fine other than the head gasket.  You won't get 150 psi with bad rings or valves.  When was the last time you re-torqued the head bolts?  Irrelevant question now since the gasket's blown.

the head gasket or the valve cover gasket?

Unlikely to be the gasket itself, although I suggest its replaced. Probably one of the o-rings contained within the joint between the block/head has failed (item 9 in the pic)



The holes in the block the studs pass through are also used as oilways. Oil under pressure from the pump passes through them and up to the cams/valvegear. If the o-ring fails the oil will take the path of least resistance.....in this case out between the joint faces resulting in a very visable leak. No need to suspect rings or any other component at this stage.

it is strange thought that you could only get your compression reading after 10 reps. 4 is the standard is it not?

Thanks for the info, Ill tear her down soon. The oil leaks out the joint where the head gasket is, not valve cover. Yes, its probably my fault for not re-torquing the head bolts since i replaced it 4000 miles ago. In that repair I just sprayed the head gasket with copper coat and re-used the old rubber covered copper washers. worked for a while, not to the stealership.

Maaaaaa ... how could you dude - a freshly decked and 3 angle cut head and you used the old gasket.

Well replace it, and I suggest a re deck, but your 3 angle should be fine. That whole decking is done to eliminate warpage and to get it to seal up tight with a new gasket. Did you do a valve adjustment in that time ?

BTW you managed 4K on it, man you been busy. I barely managed 4K in the last year. I blame my job.
Of late I am commuting more by bike - only to mooresville ... so its better.
Cool.
Buddha.

And head gasket, base gasket and hone are all recomended when you pull the head. I would even clean the case mating face to seal it all.

Your rings are OK now, so you may skip the hone if you dont take the pistons and rings off. Like use the worn parts together. They wear together and wont accelerate the  wear on each other if you dont put them in the wrong hole.

Cool.
Buddha.

hey, if you need a head gasket, base gasket, orings, and valve cover gaskets there is a whole set of genuine OEM suzuki stuff in for sale.  I be the guy is willing to let it go for pretty much nothing.  He usually likes to help people who have had their stuff blow up.  Also I heard he is spending way too much time modifying his wife's scooter and keeps spending all his money on 50cc race parts anyway so he probably wants it all out of his garage. 

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=48755.0

this is definately not a shameless plug...it might look like it...but it's definately not a shameless plug. 

     After Inspection while taking off the seat, tank, fuel lines......... wait...... wait..... wait... ahhhhh. A screw noted as #6 (that side) in Sir Sledge's diagram had rattled loose. It was still in the female side by 3 threads max. The oil leaked thru past the threads ran along the inside of the fins of the left carb side of the head, and along the joint of the cylinder and the head and then dripped off multiple fins.

     I assume that the screw stayed in just long enough to not leak oil until I got back from the Mountains. When I started her up Wednesday, the screw must have vibrated out just enough to leak and show the problem. I believe a re-torque and valve check is in order.

     Does anyone have the head stud bolt torque spec available? My Clymer is at a friends. and the torque of that #6 bolt would also be helpful. Thanks

     P.S. That copper coat spray might be just fine after all