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1989 Rebuild Help updated with pics

Started by Elbaryn, June 20, 2009, 08:23:52 PM

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Jared

If the lockset is original it should all match.  I'd take the tank too just to make sure it opened it. The reason I said take  the tank was mainly if you were going to replace the set -- the locksmith could get it open for you without having to mangle it...

If you have to remove it (ignition )...once you get the head drilled off the bolt  and the ignition off the top  clamp the bolts will usually come out by hand.


Enjoy...
When the 2nd Amendment is lost, the rest will soon follow.

Torque is LBs-FT Damn it.
Yeah that was me.    One of my rides

natedawg120

dude just cut the ignition off get a new set and take the bike to a locksmith.  They can pop that lock in no time and you can install the new gas cap and lock.  The entire set 2xkeys, ignition switch, gas cap with lock and seat lock is ~145. 

You have already done the hard part now take a dremel and separate the ignition switch from the lock bolt, its hard as shaZam! and ate through a couple drill bits of mine.  I was replacing it anyway and once i got the head of the bolt off and then the ignition off the bolt i just turned it out with vice grips.  Install new with not bolt and reassemble, don't forget about that gas lock to long though or it will bite you  :icon_lol: :icon_lol:
Bikeless in RVA

Elbaryn

I had my wife take the ignition over to the locksmith earlier today.  He said that he has blanks that work with the ignition but since I didn't have the entire ignition apart for him to see the numbers on the lock cylinder he didn't know if he could do it or not.  She left it there with him so that another guy could look at it who has done work like this before.  If this becomes a pain the butt I saw a set on ebay for around $40, I'll just pick that up have all the locks picked so that they all open and then replace them all.
I'm not in a huge hurry at the moment so I'm taking the wait and see approach.  Right now its easier if I get a key made that works, but if it deems itself aggravating I will replace everything. 

tt_four

If it helps, I also opened up my gas tank, and it looks like the lock doesn't have a separate inside bolt to lock it on. If you need another keyhole for him to check out, you could probably just unscrew the whole gas cap and take that to him, unless my bike is just weird.

natedawg120

if you ever get to the point when you want to cut it of i have my old ignition as an office decoration here at work so i could take a pic and upload it so you could see how i cut mine off.  I hope that the locksmith can help you but i had the OEM keycode and the iginition lock with me and now locksmith within 100 miles could make a key that worked. 
Bikeless in RVA

joshr08

i dont know cuz i didnt read everything but if you didnt cut or drll the screws take a 6mm socket and an extension. flip the top clap over and put the socket on now hit it with a hammer.  your socket will stick good enough to remove these bolts with no cutting or drilling needed.  i just did it on my kat ignition.  socket was a craftsman and was replaced for free cuz some how it was deformed when i got it....no chance of trashing your top plate this way. :thumb:
05 GS500F
mods
k&n air filter,pro grip gel grips,removed grab handle,pro grip carbin fiber tank pad,14/45 sprockets RK X-oring Chain, Kat rear shock swap and Kat rear wheel swap 160/60-17 Shinko raven rear 120/60-17 front matching set polished and painted rims

The Buddha

Wowww ... I have to try this dude ...
In fact I dont even care if I have to buy sockets.
Cool.
Buddha.
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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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joshr08

#27
i swear it will work i had to take the ignition outta my kat no key worked great. when you have nothing but time and no money if you mess it up youll try everything you can befor eyou cut or drill....lmao

the bolt is actually soft enough that it tuns it into a 6mm hex hed when your done.
05 GS500F
mods
k&n air filter,pro grip gel grips,removed grab handle,pro grip carbin fiber tank pad,14/45 sprockets RK X-oring Chain, Kat rear shock swap and Kat rear wheel swap 160/60-17 Shinko raven rear 120/60-17 front matching set polished and painted rims

Elbaryn

W00T!! The locksmith came through for me, I now have a key for my GS!!  Also two days of MSF down one to go, I love riding bikes!

So a new question: who sells cycle batteries?  When I get back to it later this week, I know its gonna need a new one, so where is the best place to get one? which brand?

Paulcet

Quote from: Elbaryn on June 27, 2009, 03:54:47 PM
So a new question: who sells cycle batteries?  When I get back to it later this week, I know its gonna need a new one, so where is the best place to get one? which brand?
http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Main.Battery

'97 GS500E Custom by dgyver: GSXR rear shock | SV gauges | Yoshi exh. | K & N Lunchbox | Kat forks | Custom rearsets | And More!

lopee

Hers a link yo a scorpion battery that is the new sealed kind. I paid $40 for my regular, so this seems to be a good deal. All the advantages of this battery can be read about @ that site. Might as well get the good stuff if your already going to replace it.

http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/motorcycle/sYT10L-A2.html
Grumble : Grumble . . . . . . .

Elbaryn

I finally took the bike apart today.  A few things I noticed while working on it.  The carbs seem to be in fairly good shape no super visible rust (I have yet to take them apart thats thursday).
The battery is fried, I'm sure its been a long time since it been run. 
There was a tiny bit of gas in the oil, what could cause this? Just bad carbs? Could me having checked everything over, (petcock movement, choke movement, throttle movement) have caused this gas in the tank? The air box, wasn't full of gas, but then again I haven't run it yet.  The oil was fairly new colored just a little bit thinner then normal.  I emptied the oil, is there a special way to clean the pan, or what should I do? Should I be worried about this little bit of gas?
I noticed that one of the carbs had a little bit of this gas oil mixture on it, is this another problem?
What else should I check over on thursday that I haven't already covered(I'll be spending all day with it)
I dont remember where i saw it on here but, how can I double check to make sure the engine turns over without shifting?

Thanks for all your help guys you've helped so much

BaltimoreGS

Hey,  Just came across this thread.  Is that the bike Eric Schaefer was selling (white and blue-ish)?  If you don't mind me asking, how low did you get him to go?  I could only talk him down to $500.  I wouldn't worry much about the gas in the oil, just change it and see how it runs.  Without the key I was concerned about how the inside of the gas tank looks, what did you find?  Walmart has a battery that will work for under $40.  I think it's a YB10L-A2.  The only difference is the vent is on the other side so you have to run a new vent tube.  A lot cheaper than the stock B2 battery.  Good luck with the bike, it looked like a nice project!

-Jessie

Elbaryn

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on June 30, 2009, 08:29:20 PM
Hey,  Just came across this thread.  Is that the bike Eric Schaefer was selling (white and blue-ish)?  If you don't mind me asking, how low did you get him to go?  I could only talk him down to $500.  I wouldn't worry much about the gas in the oil, just change it and see how it runs.  Without the key I was concerned about how the inside of the gas tank looks, what did you find?  Walmart has a battery that will work for under $40.  I think it's a YB10L-A2.  The only difference is the vent is on the other side so you have to run a new vent tube.  A lot cheaper than the stock B2 battery.  Good luck with the bike, it looked like a nice project!

-Jessie

Yeah it actually was his Eric's bike haha.  I haven't had a chance to look into the tank just yet the lock is frozen, so tomorrow I'm going to take the petcock off the bottom and drain.  All the gas that I've taken out of it from the fuel lines and everything were clear.  Whoever had this bike before him took exceptional care of it (other then it having been dropped), and everything under the seat was dusty and that was it.  I took a rag to the top of the carbs and engine and everything shined like it came out of the factory.
My only other concern and I forgot to mention this before are the front forks, they have a bit of surface rust on the top of the forks near the headlight, not down in the travel area, should I be concerned about this?

Jessie, I will have full pics up tomorrow as I begin cleaning. 
Do you ride around here? I just got my license and after I get this running I'm gonna be looking for people to ride with.

BaltimoreGS

Congratulations, it looked like a nice project bike to me.  I'm in Baltimore but I have friends that work in DC and live in VA.  They are thinking about getting bikes, that's how I knew of that one.  I'll let you know if they get bikes or hit me up if you get near my area.  The rust on the forks is common and not a huge concern if its not in the travel area.  Try using a little  automatic transmission fluid (I use Dexron III) on a light scotch brite pad and the forks should polish up nicely.  Enjoy your new old ride!

-Jessie

Elbaryn

Well finally got the lock out of the gas tank and got my first god look into it....its rusty as all hell, looks to still be structually good just has deposits at the bottom and light rust at the top.  I'm not sure what to do now, I bought a battery and am currently charging it to see if the electricals work.
Now I ask the community at large, should I get the tank reconditioned? (rust removed, por15)
Find a new gas tank? (no junkyards near me)
Kill the whole project now and find a bike that runs?

Thank you all for your help!

tt_four

Hmm.... tank rust is pretty common around here. I'm actually cleaning mine out and resealing it this weekend, as well as buying a new battery to see if my bike runs after it sat 4 or 5 years.

There's a ton of opinions as far as methods to clean tanks out. I did it once on my old tank and it worked pretty well. I'm just cleaning it out with simple green, then removing the rust with some phosphoric acid from home depot, then I bought the 8oz can of por-15 for about $12 to reseal it. If it hasn't run since the gas was collected everything else is probably fine, but you might want to check the fuel lines/petcock/carbs to make sure there's no rust floating around in the system, but since the bikes been sitting, they're probably fine.

As far as the bolts to reconnect your ignition, I wouldn't worry about them. Stick some normal hex bolts in there. No one that replaces an ignition to steal a bike is going to take the time to unbolt your ignition, and nicely bolt a new ignition in there. They'll just unplug your ignition, plug their in, and tape/zip tie it to the frame, and replace it later. You're not deterring them by using anything else. On top of that, if I'm gonna go out and steal a bike, it's most likely gonna be a $9000 gsxr, not a $1000 bike that's 15 years old like most of us have.

Elbaryn

I'll probably look to reseal the gas tank then sometime in the near future (read when I get paid next).  The electricals all work, I hooked the battery up, turned the key and woop everything lights up like a christmas tree, very happy about that. 
I do have a more pressing concern at the moment though, I shined a light into the cylinder heads from the spark plug whole and nothings shiny anymore, it looks all rusty.
How much of a PITA is it to rebuild this engine (done cars before never bike)?
Is it worth it? while this bike ever run well again, even after  hone the cylinders and whatever else needs to be done?

Again thank you all for the advice!

Dr.Sparkie

rebuilding these motors are terrific.. aside from weaseling it in and out of the frame (2 men with gloves and patience, or beer)

yank the motor in the late fall, set up a table in your bedroom and start pulling bolts out until you get at the soft internals. when your gf or mom complains about the oily smell in your bedroom, kick them out and get them to buy you parts from suzuki..

just be wary that suzuki can screw you on parts by shipping them to outer space and back before they get to your local dealer. last winter i had to order parts from an online supplier because suzuki took 2 months to get me the last bearing halfi needed for the crank. the online supplier shipped me the exact suzuki part (in the exact suzuki box) in less than a week, for the same price suzuki wanted.
1989 GS555
-------
Bored to 79mm, Honda Hurricane forks, Lowered 1.25" front and rear. Shinko Podium 006 120/60 front, 140/60 rear. Lunchbox, Fart can, 42.5 pilot, 3.5 turns, 152.5 main and 2 washers. Everything else is either stock or broken.

Elbaryn

Quote from: Dr.Sparkie on July 02, 2009, 11:32:44 PM
rebuilding these motors are terrific.. aside from weaseling it in and out of the frame (2 men with gloves and patience, or beer)

yank the motor in the late fall, set up a table in your bedroom and start pulling bolts out until you get at the soft internals. when your gf or mom complains about the oily smell in your bedroom, kick them out and get them to buy you parts from suzuki..

just be wary that suzuki can screw you on parts by shipping them to outer space and back before they get to your local dealer. last winter i had to order parts from an online supplier because suzuki took 2 months to get me the last bearing halfi needed for the crank. the online supplier shipped me the exact suzuki part (in the exact suzuki box) in less than a week, for the same price suzuki wanted.

Haha I wish, if I brought that motor into my apartment I think my wife would slit my throat.  I've decided to start the rebuild, what should I look to replace, or is that a matter of what I find inside the engine when I start stripping it?

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