So I got my new pilot jets this morning.
I'm just wanting to confirm with someone that I got the correct part number...  looking at the jet, it almost appears that there is no hole in the bottom, but I can't really tell - haven't taken them outta the package yet.

The part number I got is 09492-40014.
These are supposed to be the 40 pilots.

Anyway - I'll install 'em this afternoon and hopefully will clear up some of my lean running issues...

Thanks.


Rolly

You did get the right parts.

Part #09492-40014 is the official Suzuki part# for Mikuni #40 non-bleeder pilot jets.

Are you going to upgrade the 125 main jets? Seing how you are going to have to take the carbs apart you might as well kill two birds with one stone.

BTW it is a PAIN in the ass just to even get to the carbs:
1) have to take all the plastic paneling off to remove the gas tank

2) shut-off valve on gas tank is the worst design --> have to reach underneath the gas tank from the other side with screwdriver to shut it off

3) hoses everywhere -- need I say more (you better label them or have a really good diagram, unless you have a photographic memory)

4) air filter was really tight (even tighter to get on)


Good Luck!

I've got a dynojet stage 3 kit in right now - I've got the Dynojet 138 main jets.  I also have a K-n-N air filter pod... I wanted the pilot jets to hopefully cure a lean running engine after installing a less restrictive exhaust.

Thanks for the info...


Rolly

While you have the carbs apart, you might want to consider swapping out the phillips float bowl screws for allen heads.  I read that suggestion in another thread recently, and it might help you take the bowls off without going through removing the carbs.  I wish I'd though of it when I did my rejetting a few weeks ago without replacing the mains.  

Quote from: JLKasperWhile you have the carbs apart, you might want to consider swapping out the phillips float bowl screws for allen heads.  I read that suggestion in another thread recently, and it might help you take the bowls off without going through removing the carbs.  I wish I'd though of it when I did my rejetting a few weeks ago without replacing the mains.  

What size would those Allen (can't type) head screws need to be?  I checked the other post, didn't say.  That's a pretty slick idea

I took one of the old bolts into Home Depot and found a match.

Quote from: Flash
BTW it is a PAIN in the ass just to even get to the carbs:
1) have to take all the plastic paneling off to remove the gas tank

You probably already know this, but if you take-off the big gold-colored phillips bolt in the center of each side's plastic piece, then you can pull both sides outward, then back, and the plastic all comes off in one piece?  Just asking, because my Haynes manual says to remove them one side at a time, removing the small screws around the grab bar... but that is an unnecessary waste of time.

Also, the tank petcock is easier to reach with a narrow screwdriver, not a wide one.  I'm thinking of installing a sealing quck-disconnect next time.   That would be cheaper than a Pingel petcock, and would let me leave the tank petcock alone.

I wish there were a hook under the gas cap, to support the weight of the tank on a hanger, so you can lift it up easily even while full.

I remember seeing a review of a certain sportbike that had a strut to hold the fuel tank up while performing basic maintenance--  similar to a prop rood for a car hood.  Now a pneumatic strut would be cool; push a button under the seat and whooooosh, the tank pops up.  Perhaps if Vinnie from OCC is lurking, he can chime in and tell us how he did the rocket wing flaps on the Cobra-Bike...

Quote from: Rema1000

Quote from: Flash
BTW it is a PAIN in the ass just to even get to the carbs:
1) have to take all the plastic paneling off to remove the gas tank

You probably already know this, but if you take-off the big gold-colored phillips bolt in the center of each side's plastic piece, then you can pull both sides outward, then back, and the plastic all comes off in one piece?  Just asking, because my Haynes manual says to remove them one side at a time, removing the small screws around the grab bar... but that is an unnecessary waste of time.

Also, the tank petcock is easier to reach with a narrow screwdriver, not a wide one.  I'm thinking of installing a sealing quck-disconnect next time.   That would be cheaper than a Pingel petcock, and would let me leave the tank petcock alone.

I wish there were a hook under the gas cap, to support the weight of the tank on a hanger, so you can lift it up easily even while full.

The plastic can be unboltet and you dont have to remove them. Just undo the 2 bolts on the sides, and pull all the push in things out of the grommets, and the plastic will just get out of the way... just let it hang a little lower than the normal position. Then undo the 2 12mm bolts that keep the tank bracket to the frame and lift the tank up and back an inch, off and then reach in under it and close the tank petcock. Then Undo hoses at the frame petcock and take off the tank.
Cool.
Srinath.