A local body shop quoted me "at least $650" to fill two dents, apply a single color, then buff.  I've already stripped the entire tank. 
They told my wife $150 on the phone, however.


I have no clue about this sort of thing.  What's a reasonable average in the Southeast?



Tried to fill the dents myself, but can't get body filler to stick to the bare metal. 

Most shops don't have an hourly rate.  Instead, they're beholden to a computer program with every make and model of car in it.  They click "front left quarter panel", then "remove and replace", then "green".  It spits out a price, paint code, part numbers, time estimate, etc.  Because of this, most of them can't quote a price on anything out of the ordinary because they're so used to working flat-rate and pleasing the computer.

If you can find a shop that is actually interested in doing something other than insurance work, you'll find them more receptive.

I would say, labor and materials, for a good job, $250 - $350 max.  Of course, that depends partly on the dents. 

The best way to fill dents is to pound out the worst of it from the inside and lead them with body lead.  Body filler is not as elastic as steel and will crack off eventually if applied in any significant thickness.

you should find a different shop. if they are relying on a computer like that they probably suck. also, IMO, as an experienced painter who has turned out good work before, if they plan to buff even before they see the finish, they suck. buffing is to fix imperfections. if you're good, you can get your original coat to look good. hell, i did a good finish in my garage without buffing. with a pro paint room, they should really be able to get a finish with no trash.

anyway, if i were doing the job, i'd quote somewhere around $250. because you do have to pound the dents out, then fare with filler, then sand the whole thing, then prep, then etch, then highbuild prime, then sand, possibly prime again, then sand, then spray your last 3 or 4 coats... even for something small, it takes a lot of effort. and i say $250 considering i don't charge shop prices because i'm a 19 year old working out of my dad's garage. i charge $10 an hour lol just because i like to get my work out there at this point. if it was a shop, i'd expect at least $400. because they'll be faster than i am, but charge way more.

Do people still even work with lead, anymore? 
Wish I could find a place that does.  I am worried about filler just popping off underneath the paint.


Hell, Kasbe, I'd send it to you if it wasn't the middle of the summer.  I've already completely stripped it.

Good point about the buffing.  I thought the same thing, but figured I was just being too picky.  The shop manager said that he's painted many, many motorcycle tanks, and the compound curves always cause problems.  He said he could almost guarantee a drip or two that would need fixing.  That's how he excused jumping the price quote from $150 to $650.  Granted, $150 is pretty low. 

The professional shops around here are using a computer system where they plug the number of hours in.  5 for painting, 5 for filling dents, 1 for buffing, etc.  The backyard guys are all filled up for the summer, or they're retiring. 




What do you guys think about using the refillable-air canister system?  Like a spray can, except you can use professionally mixed paint and just refill the air supply?  Sold my air compressor a while back, can't use a regular paint gun.  Think the finish would be decent? 
The main problem I had with my previous two rattle-can jobs is durability, especially against fuel. 
I can wet-sand for years, if needed.  I just want more durability. 

Dude,  I learned a long time ago that if I send my wife somewhere to have something done it's way cheaper.  Send your wife into the body shop with the tank and they'll probably do it for a little over cost.....I'm serious, it works, at least for my wife seeing as how she's 115 pounds with D's