Hello all, I am in the process of mounting some GSXR (new year model) rearsets to my bike. On the standard rearset on the brake side, there are some springs which rebound the lever. With the new rearsets being much lighter, are the springs necessary? Is there enough rebound in the master cylinder that the springs will not be needed?

If you are using the original brake light switch, you may need a spring to keep it from activating when you don't want it to.

Mine doesn't have a visible spring, but there may be a spring inside the master cylinder.  And the switch is a pressure switch.

I remember hearing about the F2/F3 rearsets, but hadn't heard anything about GSXR rearsets. How much work is involved in the switch over? Any pictures?

Same for me, I couldn't find anything about any other types of rear sets. I ended up buying some GSXR rearsets knowing I would have to figure out an adapter. cool thing is, it can be done with simple hand tools. Just lots of manual labor. I'll have pics pretty soon.

I got off my lazy rump and looked more closely at the master cylinder and it seems as though there is already a spring or enough back pressure to push the lever back to normal position. Worst case, I can add a spring to the Master Cylinder shaft if it needs more "ooomph" to get it to return.

Here is a pic of what I have so far:

Is that back plate the one you made? Did you just buy the peice of aluminum somewhere, or is it something you had? I'm really interested in learning how to make more parts like that myself, but I don't know where to get good peices of metal aside from the few random steel/aluminum bars they have at home depot.

How is the shifter set up? I'd really like to put some other rearsets on the bike, but only if I can find some with a new shift lever and the adaptor with the rod. I'd still be able to reach the shifter if the peg was an inch or so farther, but Heather's little feet definitely wouldn't make it.

Yep. Here's the lowdown on how I made it. (as always, I guarantee nothing with this DIY project. Safety is always first. It is not worth losing an eye, finger, arm, leg, or life if any of it is done wrong. So please please please, follow these instructions at your own risk, and be careful. I am not an expert and do not want to be thought of as such. Thanks, CB.)

Do a quick search on google or yahoo for local sheet metal or metal fabricators. (i.e. sheet metal, "yourtown", "yourstate")
You will probably find tons of listings if you are in a decent size city. (Believe it or not, I only found a few but I am sure different search words would have helped.)
Usually you will find them listed as HVAC contractors or shops.
Next call them up and ask them, "Do you sell scrap pieces of aluminum to the public?" If they say yes, then ask if you can get a couple of pieces for a project you are doing.
You will want to get 4" x 4" x 1/4" (Probably as thick as they will have it.)
Next, you will need to layout a template, I haven't done a good template but what I did sort of works. (It could use some more precise measuring and cutting skills.)
I used a 14 Tooth / Inch jigsaw blade and carefully cut out the pattern on the 1/4" aluminum.
Once you have your layout cut out on the aluminum, you need to get an idea of where the holes will need to be drilled on the back plate so that you can mount the back plate to the bike.
Place the template on the bike and mark where the frame holes should be.
Take the template back to your work area.
Next, measure, measure, measure.....did I mention.....measure.  Make sure that the marks on the back plate are in the same place as they are on the frame.
You can drill the mounting holes first if you like to make sure they line up. Use a 5/16" drill bit to make the mounting holes. It will be just slightly larger than the 8mm mounting bolts. If they are slightly off, don't worry. Simply  "ream" the holes out a little. (Elongate them. Shoot, everyone else is doing it to CBR pegs. Right?)
Next take your back plates to your bike to see if they mount correctly. If so, take your new rearsets and hold them in different positions and with a marker, make a dot as close to the center of the hole that you can. (I started on the outside, highest point first, then the inside highest point, then the outside lowest, then the inside lowest. You will see how this pattern starts to take shape as you go, marking dots.)
Next step, take the plate back to your work area, and measure, measure measure measure. What you are measuring is where the dots are on the plate from edge to edge. From one edge, they will be a consistent distance. From the other, they should match based on the hole spacing of the rear set. Once you verify that the holes are at the same location (make adjustments as necessary) take a straight edge ruler or stick or something and draw a line through that passes through each dot. You will end up with something that resembles a checkerboard pattern. Where each of the intersecting dots and lines are, that is where you will want to drill.
You can place your rearset over the cross points to "visually" verify that they are centered. (remember, this is backyard tinkering so please, no flames from true machinists. I both envy your knowledge and talent and applaud it.)
Next, take a nail punch or better a center punch and make an indention in each cross point.
Use a 1/8" drill to drill through each point (for a pilot hole.)
Once you have all of those done, use a 17/32" drill bit (I think, not sure because I don't have markings on my bit anymore so I will need to check and update this soon.) and drill the holes.
Once all of those holes have been drilled, take an 8mm x 1.25 pitch tap (can be bought at O'reilly's auto parts for a few dollars, the hand tool / holder - wrench is a few more.) and tap the holes to give it threads. Use some lube. I used pb blaster. (probably something better out there.)
Once all the threads are cut with the tap, I used 120 grit sand paper to clean up the surface of the aluminum and to round the edges better. You can go farther and continue to sand with finer grits until you have a mirror like finish. (Even using mothers polish to get the final mirror if you like.)

Once all of the holes are drilled, you can take the pieces and put them together and viola, new year model rearsets. So far, just sitting on the bike, It feels a bit better positioned. I have only had time to do the brake side so the shifter side is next. I plan on ordering some 6 mm (or 1/4") heim joints off Ebay and picking up some 8, 10, and 12" all thread at the local hardware store for the shifter linkage as mine didn't come with the rod and only 1 heim joint. (ball joint.) This should work fine for the shifting linkage and once it is all mounted, I can simply cut, drill, and tap the stock shift lever and mount the heim joint to that for the finishing touch. (The best place I have ever found to find a bolt or something like that is ACE hardware. They simply got it right.)

Hopefully my backyard, redneck method doesn't get me in too much trouble on the road. Also, you can always change it back if it doesn't work out. Right?

I took a pic tonight of it on the bike. Not too shabby for a hand job? Ooops.......
By the way, there seems to be a spring inside the Master Cylinder that has enough force to rebound the lightweight aluminum lever.