so this problem started last fall. while driving, if i pull in the clutch, the rpms would drop like they should, but then keep dropping untill it dies. does it in the city as well as on the highway. a few months ago now i brought it in to get the carbs cleaned and that didnt fix the problem. they told me the next thing to do is to install a jet kit. so i had them put in a dynojet stage 1. problem still there. so had the carbs synced because i was told that would do it.. and did it? NOPE! i then brought it to yet another bike shop in the area and he sprayed some carb cleaner in different spots on the carb and it slowly died down like it was getting too much fuel dumped into it. but seeing that this shop primarly deals with harley's, he told me to bring it to a place that deals with metrics. Posted this problem on other forums but got nowhere. its hard to believe that with all the carbed bikes out there, no one has ever heard of this. Please help!!

OK so it behaves fine when you start it up. Then you get it nice and warm, and ride off on it, and then if you pull in the clutch it drops down to idle and keeps dropping ... till it stalls.

O, I love this ... one good instance of spending $$$ and lots of it over 3 shops when the fix is free ...

Check your float level with U tube method, and no its not on Youtube. Its the much older and much better U-tube.
Then set it to the top of the bowl with the bike sitting level. That is it, and if you cant set it there and it keeps going higher, you need a float spigot O ring.

And no, do not take it to any of those shops again ... ever. before you pick up a wrench in your hand for diagnosing problems like this, you need to test ride it, and you need to have a theory, and you need a possible location/nature of the error in the setting. You need to say, the thing is rich, and cos the thing happens as he's deecelerating it may be the float that is dumping into the intake throat and drowning it. A second possibility is that it can be rich on the miix screw.

Pay for return mailing, send it to me and I'll adjust the floats free if you are not able to do it yourself. However I would neet to have the rest of the carbs in good order, no stripped screws etc etc.
I also dont like the DJ crap, though I ahve been able to get one DJ kitted carb working perfectly. And when did modifying sheite become a substitute for diagnosing and correcting it.
Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: The Buddha on July 27, 2009, 07:59:04 AM
when did modifying sheite become a substitute for diagnosing and correcting it

modifying is always a good option. i actually thought about doing the same (jet kit) to see if it would help my other cylinder fire. . . but then I realized that was really just a shot in the dark . . . .

This may be a dumb question but after you start it and warm it up using your choke, does it die when you turn off the choke or only when you pull the clutch?  If it does die with out choke could it be the idle?

-Porkchop

Quote from: Porkchop on July 27, 2009, 08:12:07 AM
This may be a dumb question but after you start it and warm it up using your choke, does it die when you turn off the choke or only when you pull the clutch?  If it does die with out choke could it be the idle?

-Porkchop

it will sometime die even if i have the choke on. Even after ive been riding for 45 minutes, it will still die. I idjusted the idol by the adjuster and it dosent matter. Just what is the "U Tube" method of adjusting the float?

http://www.gstwin.com/float_height_check.htm

Quote from: redhenracing2 on July 27, 2009, 08:04:10 AM

Quote from: The Buddha on July 27, 2009, 07:59:04 AM
when did modifying sheite become a substitute for diagnosing and correcting it

modifying is always a good option. i actually thought about doing the same (jet kit) to see if it would help my other cylinder fire. . . but then I realized that was really just a shot in the dark . . . .

Huh?  No, no, no.  Bone stock and in good working condition is always better than modified goodness on top of crap.  And better still than modified crap (dinojet maybe) on top of crap.

Your dead cylinder for instance.  If the pilot jet is clogged and you put in a 150 main jet, you still have a dead cylinder.  Rip those carbs apart already.  I know it sucks, cause I hate messing with carbs. 

paulcet: i noticed you have the lunchbox air filter on your bike.. have you noticed any performance difference after you put that on such as faster,slower, slower throttle response?

Quote from: Paulcet on July 27, 2009, 02:48:47 PMRip those carbs apart already.

I have already paid a shop $180 to do so. Complete disassembly and cleaning. Changed absolutely NOTHING.

Quote from: redhenracing2 on July 27, 2009, 07:33:00 PM

Quote from: Paulcet on July 27, 2009, 02:48:47 PMRip those carbs apart already.

I have already paid a shop $180 to do so. Complete disassembly and cleaning. Changed absolutely NOTHING.

Silly question, but have you checked to see if you're getting spark to that cylinder?  This probably isn't the best way, but how I do it. Pull the plug, then connect the wire back to the top of it.  Touch the plug to the cylinder head away from the hole a bit.  Try to start the bike while watching the electrodes on the plug.  See if there's a spark.  It's one of the first things I do when anything I own has a misfire.  Then I just move up the line checking things. Change spark plug, check for broken plug wires.... 

Quote from: cstilt on July 27, 2009, 08:16:10 PM
Silly question, but have you checked to see if you're getting spark to that cylinder? 

yeah when i replaced the coils, I swapped the cables back and forth between the cylinders to see if it was an insufficient spark getting to it. The problem did not shift with the plug wires, but stayed in the left cylinder.

bryon:  I've never had one without the lunchbox, so I can't compare.  Sorry.  But I can say that the whole package (filter, jets, yosh) works very well.

Pipe and K&N works like a dream, but with your problem, I'd fix it instead of doing the kilter and pipe.
The stock bike isn't that bad, I have had both, K&N especially is pretty much hard wear on the upper cyl and pistons etc.
Cool.
Buddha.

if I leave my choke on, my bike will die after warmed up. have you tried raising the idle?

so i checked the float levels and they are perfect. yes i have messed with the idol speed but with no prevail. if i can, ill record a video clip of what its doing. but its gonna be hard seeing i dont have a helmet cam.

out of ideas everyone?

How many miles are on the bike?  How many miles since the valve clearances were checked?  Valve adjustment comes before carb calibration and balancing.  Running premium fuel in this bike can also cause driveability problems because it doesn't need it.  I know this sounds dumb, but did you try turning-up the idle screw?

If the bike is in good shape otherwise, a bike that starts cold with choke, runs, but won't idle warm has clogged idle jets.

the bike now has just over 14k. but i never had the valves adjusted. do you know if this is one of the symptoms?

With 14k miles the valves need to be checked.  When valve clearances go out of spec it can cause hard starting.  The book says they need to be checked every 4,000 miles.  Experiences of many here show you can double that and your valves will still be in spec most of the time.  Some have reported 20k miles before the valve shims actually need changing.  I don't think valve adjustment is your problem, although it's time to look at them.

What happens if you turn-up the idle screw?  My bike idles faster as it warms, meaning I need choke for the first few minutes (or 20 in cold weather) then it eventually idles good with no choke.  It could be your idle is set too low, especially if you don't ride far.  Even in 60 degree weather my bike isn't fully warm after a 20 minute, 10 mile ride to work, and you can't set the idle properly until the engine is fully hot.  Ride it until it's good and hot, 40 minutes or more, then set the idle and go from there.  If it won't idle no matter where you set the idle screw, that points to clogged idle jets.

the next thing i guess ill check is the valves. i turned up the idle screw but nothing changed. its when i pull in the clutch; thats when it dies on me. do you think one of the filters in the carb system would do this if its cloged?