I have a 95' GS500E that  have been working on poor low end performance since I got it last year.  It has always been doggy below 4000 rpm and gets worse once the bike is  good and warmed up.  I have install hot plugs, new air filter and adjusted the carb from rich to lean and everywhere in between but, the plugs always fouled up (black soot) right away after cleaning them.  It would still ran decent even with the fouled plugs.   Recently it has gotten worse to the point that once it is warmed up I can't hardly take off from a stop.  It idles good and always has but, at take off, it bogs down and just about stalls until the tach gets over 4000 rpm.  The bike only has 8,000 ml on it and the carbs are spottless.  It does have a jet kit and Yoshimura pipe.  Checked the coils and signal gerating resistances and they appear to be good (signal generater check wasn't at 68 deg but resistance was still not high).  I would like to check the ignitor voltage but do not know what should be coming out of it.  Does anyone know what the voltages coming out of the ignitor should be?  I also can not find any shorts (still looking though).  I am interested in advancing the timing and possibly using a larger front drive sproket  to improve low end performance but, I want to make sure that everything else is as it should be first.  Any advice? 

A larger front drive sprocket won't improve low end.  It'll do the opposite.

It sounds to me like your jets are too big and now the heads are full of carbon.  Close your idle screws down to 1 turn out and replace your plugs with stock.  No need to ever use any other plug.  If your plugs are still fouling there's your answer.  Best of luck sorting it out.

What jets do you use?
Are your float height right?

Sounds like wrong plugs and/or too rich. Check your jetting against the tables in the wiki. Go back to stock plugs.

Quote from: donb on June 28, 2009, 10:06:03 AM
I have a 95' GS500E that  have been working on poor low end performance since I got it last year.  It has always been doggy below 4000 rpm and gets worse once the bike is  good and warmed up.  I have install hot plugs, new air filter and adjusted the carb from rich to lean and everywhere in between but, the plugs always fouled up (black soot) right away after cleaning them.  It would still ran decent even with the fouled plugs.   Recently it has gotten worse to the point that once it is warmed up I can't hardly take off from a stop.  It idles good and always has but, at take off, it bogs down and just about stalls until the tach gets over 4000 rpm.  The bike only has 8,000 ml on it and the carbs are spottless.  It does have a jet kit and Yoshimura pipe.  Checked the coils and signal gerating resistances and they appear to be good (signal generater check wasn't at 68 deg but resistance was still not high).  I would like to check the ignitor voltage but do not know what should be coming out of it.  Does anyone know what the voltages coming out of the ignitor should be?  I also can not find any shorts (still looking though).  I am interested in advancing the timing and possibly using a larger front drive sproket  to improve low end performance but, I want to make sure that everything else is as it should be first.  Any advice? 

Dont modify as a substitute for troubleshooting and repair.
OK so what jet kit does it have.
I am almost sure its the carburetion - but as an aside - is 1 cyl acting up - like pull its spark plug and it doesn't make much difference to its running ?
Does that happen ? if so it can be the trigger coil.
What pilots you have.
And what is the float level set to.
Cool.
Buddha.

I put the screws to one turn out but no help.  It still  bogs down at take off once the bike is fully warmed up.  Also, when I put the screws to one turn, I had to really adjust the idle adjust screw to keep it running. I haven't changed the plugs back yet but, I changed to the hotter plugs to start with because of the the fouled plugs and poor low end performance.  The standard plugs were fouled as well.  I am not sure what size of jets are in the carb but, currently the float is set close to nominal (.575-.580") with the jet needle washer on the second groove down and I had the idle air screws at 3 turns out.  Since I have adjusted the carbs from one rich to lean and everywhere inbetween with no positive results and the problems only occurs when the bike warms up, I am suspecting a bad low end winding in one or both of the coils.

Right right ... yes, random sheite that doesn't exist is bad on your bike ...

Low end coil winding could have died, yes, and dont forget to check the auxilliary cylinder booster, as well as the solubilising chamber, the activated water chamber whcih really provides the ability to make electrilising the water into activated water with super deep power release, as well as the extra shamewow reservoir. I mean, that billy mays didn't check that, and now he's dead. Enough said ...

And please do random things like put in hotter plugs etc etc etc to fix it. Maybe add in plug threads and adjust them to point the electrodes to the intake valves and adjust the spark to really hit the intake valve.

And yea all bets are off, you have adjustable needles ... you're really going to have to diagnose your way out of this one.

I will post seriously in a few mins, but you are seriously doing stupid and ridiculous things as well as sounding foolish.

Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: donb on July 11, 2009, 11:43:32 AM
I put the screws to one turn out but no help.  It still  bogs down at take off once the bike is fully warmed up.  Also, when I put the screws to one turn, I had to really adjust the idle adjust screw to keep it running.

What year is the bike and what pilot jet are you running. Idle is determined by air screw. You turned it to 1 turn - fine if you are certain its 1 turn out from seated ... then OK, but take off is all pilot jet. 0-1/8th throttle. Pilot jet ... all the way. You may be over 2 sizes up if these symptoms are correct. But you should open and look and post.

Quote from: donb on July 11, 2009, 11:43:32 AM

I haven't changed the plugs back yet but, I changed to the hotter plugs to start with because of the the fouled plugs and poor low end performance. 

Hotter plugs dont quite have the capacity to burn "hotter". They only have a lower self cleaning temperature. So fouling is a good reason to run hotter plugs, however you may be so far off the hotter plug aint doing nothing. OK forget this, you can swap it back when we get it set right.

Quote from: donb on July 11, 2009, 11:43:32 AM
The standard plugs were fouled as well.  I am not sure what size of jets are in the carb but, currently the float is set close to nominal (.575-.580")

What .575 check the float level with U tube method and set it to the top of the float bowl. level via the manual method is worthless if you have a bad seat or O ring on the seat spigot.

Quote from: donb on July 11, 2009, 11:43:32 AM
with the jet needle washer on the second groove down and I had the idle air screws at 3 turns out.  Since I have adjusted the carbs from one rich to lean and everywhere inbetween with no positive results and the problems only occurs when the bike warms up, I am suspecting a bad low end winding in one or both of the coils.

You have a DJ in it - sorry, I cant give you a canned jet pack and I cant guarantee a 40 pilot either, I ran 40's in mine, ran like a swiss watch, but I know of 1 person who didn't like 40's. He had to run the 37.5 stockers back in it.

Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: The Buddha on July 11, 2009, 07:42:03 PM

Quote from: donb on July 11, 2009, 11:43:32 AM
with the jet needle washer on the second groove down...

You have a DJ in it - sorry, I cant give you a canned jet pack and I cant guarantee a 40 pilot either, I ran 40's in mine, ran like a swiss watch, but I know of 1 person who didn't like 40's. He had to run the 37.5 stockers back in it.

Cool.
Buddha.

Except if he is from Europe. 

donb?

i think you have a problem with carb sync..try running the engine one cylinder at a time by pulling out the high tension wire of the other..adjust the idle screw and the air mixture screw if necessary to attain a stable idle and take note of the rpm..run the other cylinder with the same idle screw setting and check if they have the same idle rpm..if not, run the cylinder with less idle rpm and adjust the carb linkage screw until it reaches the same rpm as the other..now run both cylinder and adjust idle to 1200rpm.

Quote from: lamoun on July 12, 2009, 02:44:50 AM

Quote from: The Buddha on July 11, 2009, 07:42:03 PM

Quote from: donb on July 11, 2009, 11:43:32 AM
with the jet needle washer on the second groove down...

You have a DJ in it - sorry, I cant give you a canned jet pack and I cant guarantee a 40 pilot either, I ran 40's in mine, ran like a swiss watch, but I know of 1 person who didn't like 40's. He had to run the 37.5 stockers back in it.

Cool.
Buddha.

Except if he is from Europe. 

donb?

Good call lamoun, but something told me he wasn't and I looked his profile and he is not in europe.

I suspect he had a bad float height.
Synch is a distant second ... unless he was so far off ... but it will actually run ok at higher throttle openings. Idle will be what is the worst.
Cool.
Buddha.