Ok...not its not.

So I just got my girlfriends bike back from a mechanic who did that carbs.
But...it still runs fairly poor.

Long story short, is the bike has about 30k miles on it, and I am unaware of what maintanance its had.

So it now breaks up right around 2500 to 3000 rpms. If I clutch in, and get the revs up a little more the bike smooths out, until the top end were it breaks ups again.

I'll be replacing the plugs, as well as the airfilter.

The plugs looked like they've seen some lean conditions, fairly white but I attributed that to the carbs being messed up.

With this many miles what else should I be looking for?
Are these symptoms familiar?

I'd appreciate any input!

Thanks,
Steve

i would check valve clearances

Did you give the mechanic the bike with a certain problem to fix, or did you just have them give it a general going over? You might do best to pull the carbs off yourself and give them a thorough cleaning. Even if he pulled them apart and didn't see anything wrong. I'd be 99% sure he didn't pull them apart, clean out the jets, pull the needle jet(emulsion tube?) and make sure all the holes were clear with all the love and care that you'd do to your bike. It might make a huge difference. My bike had a similar problem from 5k-6k rpm until I cleaned mine out. It was my first time, so if you're not comfortable with it there's plenty of info on this site to help you along.

I'm pretty comfortable mechanicly. I've done a bunch of work on cars, motorswaps etc...just new to bikes and more importantly carbs!

The reason I had it at a mech. was because I did take the carbs apart. They were actually pretty clean. When I put it back together however it ran a little worse so I turned it over to a pro.

I'll dig out my feeler gauges and check the shim clearances.
Hopefully that will solve the problem.

The valvetrain is a bit noisey. I'm just not sure why that would only make the bike stumble down low and up top.

Oh wait ... carbe @ a mechanicc ... man I love them mechanics ... they make 90% of my work much mich harder ...
Anyway, I'll check the carbs or rejet em etc for you for $45 and reverse shipping.
The valves, they act up right after start up and get OK 5 mins after riding. In fact they will down right stall 5 seconds after startup unless you rev it with te throttle. That = tight valves. If not, dont waste your time. Yea loose valves clack like crazy. That is it. 40-60K wihtout an adjustment is possible, I did my first swap ~15K ... However I ran them very very tight (low end and under of the accepted range) so I adjusted them often to stay that way.
Cool.
Buddha.

Thanks for the offer buddha.
I'll keep tinkering and let you know if I give up.

In the mean time, I will check the valve clearances. Get some new plugs and a new air filter.

This thing is being stored 50 miles away at my parents for now...so not much time to work on it.

But last night I was there changing the oil in my girlfriends car...see a theme here?....

Any, pulled the plug wires one by one to see what was up.  The right wire made the engine die.  The left one shocked me once I pulled it off the plug.

Are the spark wires replaceable on these bikes or do i need to order a whole new coil?

Hopefully this will solve my problems!

the plug wire unscrews from the coil, you can use a standard car plug wire as a replacement

Perfect! Thanks.

My old honda needs the whole coil replaced instead of just a wire.

What a pain!