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Brake replacement and new brake line install.

Started by Bluehaze, September 03, 2009, 11:00:14 PM

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Bluehaze

Well that turned out painless. 

Question:  Do i squeeze the brake until i get pressure with the top off of the master cylinder?  Or do I just tighten everything up. then just keep squeezing the brake until i get the pressure?  By pressure i mean i wont be able to squeeze the lever all the way to the handle bar anymore. there will be resistance.

What are the symptoms of Air in tube?

2008 GS500F Modification: Fenderectomy. Additional LED Brake Lights. Blue Underlighting Kit. Grills on the Fairing. K&N Drop in Filter. Laser Deeptone 2-1 Exhaust. DynoJet Kit. Rear Kellerman Turn Signal. 14T sprocket. Carbon Fiber Race pegs. SM2 handlebar. 06 R6 Rear Suspension.

Bluehaze

2008 GS500F Modification: Fenderectomy. Additional LED Brake Lights. Blue Underlighting Kit. Grills on the Fairing. K&N Drop in Filter. Laser Deeptone 2-1 Exhaust. DynoJet Kit. Rear Kellerman Turn Signal. 14T sprocket. Carbon Fiber Race pegs. SM2 handlebar. 06 R6 Rear Suspension.

ohgood



tt_four: "and believe me, BMW motorcycles are 50% metal, rubber and plastic, and 50% useless

Bluehaze

Yea i bled it.. just making sure i didnt have the air in tube issues..  brakes seems to work just fine now.    i did the the reverse bleeding method. pretty much i pushed the liqued into the bleeder valve and made it go up to the master cyclinder.  Worked out since it was new line and no liquid in there anyway.  I think thats what made it painless.  :cheers:
2008 GS500F Modification: Fenderectomy. Additional LED Brake Lights. Blue Underlighting Kit. Grills on the Fairing. K&N Drop in Filter. Laser Deeptone 2-1 Exhaust. DynoJet Kit. Rear Kellerman Turn Signal. 14T sprocket. Carbon Fiber Race pegs. SM2 handlebar. 06 R6 Rear Suspension.

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