My GS500 was idling in the driveway, and the kickstand must've not been all the way set, as I heard it fall over while I was grabbing my helmet and gloves from the garage.   

I ran over and turned it off, but the clutch lever had snapped in two.  I ordered a new lever and installed it, but now it won't even click the starter motor when I try to start it.  I've charged the battery overnight, so I know it's not that, and since the lights don't even dim and it doesn't make any sound, I'm thinking it's either the clutch sensor, the kill switch sensor, or maybe the kickstand sensor? 

The picture below shows the new lever which hits the plastic when squeezed all the way, so I'm wondering if it's not going far enough to trip the sensor?  I pulled the plastic switch off right underneath this and shorted it out with a screwdriver, but I"m not sure if that's the right thing to do, or if that's even the right switch.  Any other tips?  It's a major PITA to get this thing to a shop if it's not running.  Thanks!

You probably just need to adjust the tension on the clutch lever.  It could be that its not fully engaged and the bike wont turn on unless it is fully engaged.  try then then let us know what happens.

Quote from: tslugmo on October 23, 2009, 08:49:07 AM
I ran over and turned it off, but the clutch lever had snapped in two.  I ordered a new lever and installed it, but now it won't even click the starter motor when I try to start it.

Most likely you goofed up the clutch switch when replacing the clutch lever. Take it off and fiddle with it, look where it goes, try putting it back in again. If you need to bypass it, go into the headlight housing and plug the two wires that plug into it together. If the new clutch lever isn't right, it may not have the proper groove to actuate the switch. It's also possible to install the switch backwards, or with the sliding part not engaged in the groove.

Then again, look on the other side and be sure you flipped your kill switch back to on/run.

If it will not crank when in neutral, it's not the sidestand switch. Sidestand switch has no effect if in neutral.

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.  So the clutch wire is what actuates the switch?  Not a contact next to the lever?  If that's the case, I'll tighten the wire, and then take apart the headlight assembly if that doesn't work.  Kill switch is set to Run, and the neutral green light was on.  I'll report back after my next steps, thanks.

Looks like the plastic housing may be keeping the lever from coming fully back to the point that the switch makes contact.  The clutch on mine had to come way back close to the grip, to the point that I got annoyed with it, and disabled it.

The electrical clutch swith is in the plastic housing, not where the cable enters by drive. you need to pull that plastic housing off and see if the switch is being pressed in or stuck or if anything doesnt look right.  By the looks of the picture, the plastic is keeping the clutch from moving far enough. On mine I have to actually get the lever (stock so probably differant shape than your) to touch the handle grip for it to activate the swtich and sometimes I have to wiggle it to get it to open the switch.

Try putting your broken lever back on and pull it all the way to see if the bike will start.  If it does than you know you need to get a deifferant new lever since the one you have cant open the switch or grind down that lever (if you cant return it for your money back) where it is hitting the plastic.

Yeah, my old clutch lever used to go all the way to the handlebar when I would push it, so I think that must be it.  How do you disable the switch, Paulcet?  The old lever broke off at the very base, so there's no way to squeeze the clutch with the old handle.  I thought I was ordering a stock handle, but I guess I wasn't.  I'll order a stock one, but it'd be nice to ride in the meantime.  Thanks guys.

Option 1:
To disable the switch all you have to do open the plastic housing, find the two wires connected to the switch, (should be pretty easy to see) just make sure they are the clutch switch wires and not blinker wires or horn or anything, and cut one of the wires from the switch.  I would suggest cutting it in a place where it will be easy for you to spice it back together once you get your stock lever in.  OR if you know how to solder cut it by the switch and solder it back when you get the lever.

NOW, once cut you have to make sure the wire doesnt accidently ground, so put a wire nut on the end and then wrap it with some electrical tape.

Option 2: (better if you can)
ALSO you can disable the swith by just following the wire (rember the color, I dont have my bike right now so i cant check the color) but follow the wire and find a place to disconnect it at a place where it just plugs in.  It will most likely plug in with a box of other wires as well, if you can pull it out of the box harness, do that and tape off the end so you dont have to cut anything.  Other wise option 1.

No. Follow DoD's advice.  It's in the headlight bucket

Quote from: Paulcet on October 23, 2009, 03:59:07 PM
No. Follow DoD's advice.  It's in the headlight bucket

yea, thats the same as my option 2. follow the wire to where there is a split. but you need to unplug not plug it in.  Pluging in is what grounds it and unplugging is what keeps it open.  When the clutch is not pulled in, there is a switch that is closed, when you pull the clutch it opens the switch thus breaks the complete circuit.

I may be wrong but Im pretty sure im not. when you plug it in it completes a ground circuit.

Gregvhen -
You're wrong. Trust me on this. I have considerable personal experience with the clutch switch. And with bypassing it. Just open the headlight bucket and plug the wires going to it, together.

Search for "cranky" (or cranky and my name as author, but cranky will probably do) for a far more detailed trip down clutch-switch lane.

Frick, I'll just link to it http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=43024.0

The wiring diagram: http://www.bbburma.net/Scans/Haynes_WiringDiagram_US_90-96.jpg
Clutch switch supplies power to starting circuit - it's between the starter button and the starter relay. It must be closed to function.

Wow, great, thanks so much for taking the time, that's perfect!

Let's just say - the absolute utter suckage that is "man, the bike is just dead" makes a lasting impression, and it's good to help other people sort it out as fast as possible, and without wasting too much time or money - especially given how simple the quick workaround for the most common cause of it is.

Quote from: DoD#i on October 23, 2009, 04:27:20 PM
Gregvhen -
You're wrong. Trust me on this. I have considerable personal experience with the clutch switch. And with bypassing it. Just open the headlight bucket and plug the wires going to it, together.

Search for "cranky" (or cranky and my name as author, but cranky will probably do) for a far more detailed trip down clutch-switch lane.

Frick, I'll just link to it http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=43024.0

The wiring diagram: http://www.bbburma.net/Scans/Haynes_WiringDiagram_US_90-96.jpg
Clutch switch supplies power to starting circuit - it's between the starter button and the starter relay. It must be closed to function.

Yea i know, I was thinking about in the car and was like "oh dang, i told him the wrong thing.  That switch is used to complete a circuit not ground because the starter wont even turn without that switch, and all the grounding switches are all about grounding to plugs."   My bad DoD#i

QuoteMost importantly, however, all in one motion, you should pull your handlebars all the way to the left (or the kickstand side), and give it one or two big, hard tugs after the stand is down. The tugs help settle the bike in case there are any loose rocks, etc.

I can't really sympathize. During our motorcycle course, we weren't even allowed to turn them on until we learned: Helmet etiquette, and parking etiquette.

Rookie mistake. Sorry dude.

I think I really screwed things up now.  I went into the headlight assembly and looked for the two yellow w/ green wires, which were each plugged into different harnesses.  Thinking I was doing the right thing, I clipped those wires and twisted them together.  I tried to start the bike, and it did click once, but then <poof>, everything turned off.  Even though it was charged on a trickle charger and the headlight was full power, one click and all gone.  I checked the 20amp fuse, and it's fine.  I used a butt connector to put things back the way they were, but it's not looking good.  If that's not what I was supposed to do, any idea what I did, and what might be wrong now?  At least before I could've push started, now...   



You can see the red butt connectors I used to re-attach at about 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock.

Thanks guys.

Good thing you put it back together. Because you were about to cause an irreversible rip in the space-time continuum. This ain't something simple like a flux capacitor your mess'n with.

Just keep repeating... If Doc Emmett Brown did it, so can I ...and all will be like you were back in Kansas.



Michael

Quote from: tslugmo on October 30, 2009, 10:51:30 AM
I think I really screwed things up now.  I went into the headlight assembly and looked for the two yellow w/ green wires, which were each plugged into different harnesses.  Thinking I was doing the right thing, I clipped those wires and twisted them together.  I tried to start the bike, and it did click once, but then <poof>, everything turned off.  Even though it was charged on a trickle charger and the headlight was full power, one click and all gone.  I checked the 20amp fuse, and it's fine.

WTF???      

Did you even read my posts? NO WIRE CUTTERS should be needed AT ALL.

The clutch switch has two wires coming from it. They plug in to two wires in the harness. The wires in the harness will plug into each other. WITHOUT ANY CUTTING! (unless other years are wildly different from 1990's.)

You probably shorted something with your twisted-together connection.
If you have no lights, you looked at the wrong fuse. The one you can easily see is not the one that's in use, it's the spare. The one in use is under the rubber cover the one you can easily see is in.

If for some reason other years are wildly different and you do have to cut to make the connection, make sue the two wires you cut both go out to the clutch switch, and use one of those barrel connectors so the connection does not short out to the headlight shell.

ouch. does not sound good for you. but like DoiDo said, you probably shorted something out. you better pray you didnt mess up the CDI (which you prolly didnt but still pray) cause my fried and it cost me 315 bones plus shipping.  Id start testing everything that could be wrong.  Get your self a voltometer and refer to your manual under the electronics section. it tellls how to test all the components.

Ugh, that sucks.  Sorry, I misunderstood the instructions.  I took off the rear fairing and pulled apart the red fuse cover to check the fuse, I wasn't looking at the spare.  I actually swapped in the spare just in case, but no joy.  So until I can get it to power on, troubleshooting the clutch ain't gonna help.  Any thoughts on my next steps, or have I just fried my electrical system now?  I guess I can swap in a new battery, but I don't think that's the problem.