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Oxford Hot Hands heated grips

Started by CanadianRider, October 27, 2009, 05:40:00 PM

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CanadianRider

Thought I'd post that I have recently added these wrap-around grips.  I chose them because they have a small draw on the engine, 1.3 Amps/18 watts.  Given how tenuous the electrical system is they seemed like a good choice.  It seems that the fact that they wrap around the rubber grips means they aren't losing heat internally like the under-grip type.  I'm also fine with having them on only when needed and removing them in Summer, I'd get under-grip ones if I wanted them to be permanent.  There's a review of them at www.webbikeworld.com which I agree with - they get very hot, and are comfortable to use because they make the grip bigger and your gauntlet gloves don't bunch up as much.  They're actually too hot to use with Summer gloves for long!

Small tip - they come with lots of additional wiring which you can't cut (length is to do with resistance requirements).  I ran mine behind the instrument area and it looks very unobtrusive. 
Also I have read online that if you replace brake and turn signal bulbs with LEDs you free up enough electrical capacity to offset some lower-draw brands of under-grip heaters.

I have the 500F and the fairing seems to keep all but a gentle flow of cold air off my hands.  Wearing the gauntlets I'm not getting the cold back-of-hand problem and I recommend these.  Combined with my laminar lip (wind reduction) and Jett battery heated vest I am having no trouble in the -2 to 10 degree range and probably a bit colder.

the mole

Quote from: CanadianRider on October 27, 2009, 05:40:00 PM
 
Also I have read online that if you replace brake and turn signal bulbs with LEDs you free up enough electrical capacity to offset some lower-draw brands of under-grip heaters.

I wouldn't rely on this, think of how often your indicators are on and the amount of current they draw. The saving would be peanuts. If you run the headlight during the day, it would be worth using a seperate LED type light instead for visibility, you could save maybe 4 amps that way.
Anyway, hope it works out for you, I don't need them here but I'm a fan of heated grips in a cold climate. :thumb:

TonyKZ1

I had a set of these, they worked pretty good. Got nice & hot, enough where a controller would be great, but just having the on/off switch works good too.
Tony
1997 Yamaha Seca II - mostly stock, Racetech upgraded forks, FZ6R rear shock, Oxford Sports Style Heated Grips, Barkbusters Blizzard Cold Weather Handguards, a Scottoiler vSystem chain oiler. My Mileage Tracker Page.

tt_four

Just to save people from having to search:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/heated-motorcycle-grips/


Aside from under-the-grip style which i've seen, they also make grips that actually have the heating elements inside the rubber. The review for those is here....
http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/heated-motorcycle-grips/oxford-hot-grips/

I used to have a pair of heated grips. Not Oxford, these ones.... http://www.hotgrips.com/store.php?crn=203&rn=119&action=show_detail

They're definitely something I'd be willing to put on any of my bikes. One of those upgrades you can completely forget about until your fingers start to tingle, then all you've gotta do is flip the switch and give it a couple minutes.

I'll probably be more likely to try to Oxford grips next time. They look like they actually feel like real grips. The Hotgrips feel more like rubber coated plastic, and definitely aren't the most comfortable grip. Not a huge deal because I always wore gloves, but still. The other problem with the grips, or even the under-grip style is that one side is mounted on metal, and the other side is mounted on the plastic throttle sleeve, so the heat was never equal. One side was always warmer than the other. They did atleast have lo/high settings though. The wrap around grips don't have the same problem.

The Buddha

Tail light and dash lights with LED's and be careful of some of those swap in LED bulbs made in china ... they have done some resistor junk inside of em that pulls down almost as much amperage as the original incandescent.

Proper LED circuits were made by JeffD and a jeffD tail light now has a street value of 1500 bucks.

Proper LED circuit has a current limiter, that protects the LED as well as have a replaceable component if you were to have a failure. Its like a fuse. Unless there is a explicit fuse.

Chinese resistor junk will burn the resistor in a few months and you'd have to replace the bulb. Garbage, they found a way to kill a 100,000 hour led in 6 months. I had some in my wife's car. Dead in 18 minths with very light use.

Dash ligts - someone had a pic of how they did it.

Cool.
Buddha.
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