I know this has been posted but I thought it left some thing to be desired so here's my take.  I wrote this following the pdf service manual.  Please ignore rust. Hope you like.  And per requests I added torque plus size of bolt.

Remove wheel
1. Support bike by center stand or some other way.
2. Remove rear brake caliper mounting bolts(12mm 14.5-22.5lb) and lift caliper and torque link.(this may not be necessary if your wheel will slip out)

3. Remove cotter pin(4)(5/32x1 1/2") axle nut(1)(7/8" 36-58lb.) washer(3) and that other thing(2).

4. Loosen the chain adjustment nut(1)(12mm) on both sides of the swingarm. Remove the axle shaft(3)

5. Disengage chain from sprocket if you haven't already.
6. Remove wheel.

Remove rear sprocket
7. Remove sprocket nuts(14mm 29-43.5lb). For this I leave the hub and wheel attached it makes removal easier.
8. Remove sprocket mounting hub.  May need a loving tap from a mallet to get hub off to remove bolts.



Front Sprocket
1. Remove bolt(2)(10mm)holding shift lever in place
2. Remove 5 bolts(1)(8mm) holding front sprocket cover

3. Remove snap clip(2) holding sprocket(1) in place.

4. Remove sprocket.

Install is reverse

looks really good. i think you should upload this in the wiki so it doesnt disappear.  thanks for taking the time.

Relevent torque figures would be nice.

wow, when someone else is doing it it looks like a lot less of a pain in the ass

Without torque specs its kinda self explanitory how to do this. post the torques

don't need torques, just do it by the german standard, goodentight but, torque for rear wheel is 47ftlbs if I remember and I think sprocket bolts were around 15

May be self explanatory to you and I (well now it is) but this is for people who need it.

I went beyond including torque,  I also included wrench size AND cotter pin size just in case.

I would like to add this to the wiki but don't know how so if some one could I'd appreciate it.

Does torque really matter?

What are the things that can go wrong if I just make sure the screw is tight?

(also, what does You Win! mean?)

Quote from: rayshon on February 03, 2012, 09:34:23 PM
Does torque really matter?

What are the things that can go wrong if I just make sure the screw is tight?

(also, what does You Win! mean?)

You win is the Word Filter replacement for the word b.olt. Seems John has been having fun adding a filter to different words. If you guess the word you win, hence he changed it to You Win so you'd know if you won after discovering which word he applied the filter to. You can follow the thread he made for it http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=58899.0

Michael

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong here, but I believe over torquing can damage the bolts by putting too much pressure on the threads.  Under torquing could result in the bolts loosening.

40 to 60 foot lbs of torque isn't that much and someone could conceivably way over torque that.

I usually follow the goodentight method, being of German heritage myself.  Actual German spelling i believe is "guttentight".   But when it comes to important parts like the rear axle and bolts holding my sprockets in place I go with the factory recommendations.  Torque wrenches aren't that expensive.

I go through 3  or 4 rear tires a year on my 919, add in chain replacements and I'm diassembling and reassembling the rear wheel frequently (much easier on a naked bike I have to add )  I would guess that removing all those bolts with that frequency would tend to wear out some of the bolts if I was over torquing each time.

step 4 - might wanna tell them to loosen the adjusters the exact same number of 1/2 turns... that way alignment won't be far off when they put things back together. (link to 'string thing' is a good idea at the end too)

might want to put a disclaimer at the beginning that rear removal isn't neccessary for a clip style master link. just loop a coat hanger through the old chain to new chain, (tranny in neutral) then roll the new chain around.

nice write up with torque specs. this is your first wiki submission ? cool 

On step 8, why do you have to remove the hub? Couldn't you just leave it in place and put the new sprocket on?

looking at the parts drawing, it looks like the bolt heads would be really hard to get to without taking the hub off... and the hub comes off really easily according to the picture
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/3903-suzuki-2009--gs500f/assemblies/125090-rear-wheel

I don't think you have to hold the bolts to remove the nuts. I think they fit into slots on the back side of the hub that keep them from turning. Correct me if I'm wrong though.

Don't have to hold bolts to remove/put-on sprocket nuts.
Don't have to remove cush from wheel to replace sprocket. If you do remove it, be sure the spacer goes back in correctly.
Don't have to remove brake from bracket as bracket simply fits on axle. You can remove it if you wish.

Pro tip: loosen the rear sprocket nuts with everything still installed. You can put the bike in gear and loosen them quite easily. And yes, they will and should be tight.

That's probably silly thing to say. But why in the world, would you play with rear brakes and chain tensioner, if you can just fully remove rear axle, and keep correct alignment, and less nuts to wrench?

Well for one thing at least, a new chain won't be as stretched as the one you are replacing, so by definition you are going to have to re-adjust chain tension. Add to this that a new sprocket will also change tension as there will be less slack due to teeth wear.

Would absolutely agree with slacken tensioner bolts by equal amounts tho' - you'll be much closer to correct alignment that way but 'tis never a bad idea to check alignment carefully, 'less you like the rear going one way and the front going another of course...

Personally I'd add that gently easing the rear pads apart with a block of wood really helps with re-installing the wheel, just as long as you remember to pump the rear brake before you go for a test ride of course...

Sorry if I misunderstood your comment btw...