Hi all,

I know there have been several similar posts, but I was hoping to get some more info on some chain issues.
When coming off the clutch, I hear a clack clack scraping sound coming from the chain coming in contact with something. Almost feels like it's coming from the front sprocket. When riding around at low speeds, I can hear the chain making some noise, like the links are rusty and old. Some parts of the chain are worse, I can actually feel the difference in some parts of the chain turning the wheel by hand on the bellystand.

Tonight I tried my hand at adjusting the chain (for the first time ever) after watching a youtube video. That sounds retarded, but it looked pretty easy. I got the chain a little tighter, leaving about an inch of play but when attempting to finish up, I realized that the alignment was off. By a good couple of marks. I can't get the right side to move at all, it is all the way off the last (back) mark. The left side is on the last mark, and moves like normal when the chain bolt is tightened/loosened. How do I move the right side? I tried alot of brutish things like kicking and hammering to no avail.

I've already ordered a new chain, because whether or not this chain is causing the sound it's pretty beat up and crusty, who knows how long it's been on there. Thinking at this point of taking it to a shop and being at their mercy, but after all the work i've done myself i'd hate to throw cash away. Any tips are very appreciated. Thanks!

I also had a case of stuck chain adjuster (Right side too!)

Tried hammering, WD40 , hammering again... nothing.

Removed the axle and the adjuster was moving fine....

MMMmmm... what the hell!!!! 

Then it came to me...  removed the brake caliper mounting bolts, moved the caliper out of the way and bang!, problem solved! 

I lossen the third screw (on the connecting rod), and removed 4 and 5 (numbering in order of appearance  ) .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdxkIgnrolI

try spreading the brake pads a little while the caliper is off.

when you're aligning things, check out "the string method" videos on youtube.

if your chain is crunchy, you prolly need a new front cog also. make sure your splines are good on the output shaft.

how's your cush drive ?

how are your bearings ?

rotor still round ? not cracked ?

good luck

Lol .
I know exactly you issue.

You have to loose your brake swingarm. where its connected to the rear brake calipers.  Its not mentioned anywhere on manual.  But once you do that.. you will notice that you can slide the right side as far up and as far down as you need to. 

Trust me i had to same issue and it took me a while to figure it out.  Its not an issue if you are just adjusting minimal amount. but when you ahve to adjust a lot.. you have to lossen that bolt.. it allows that caliper that is also tied down to the rear axle to adjust.  The reason behind this is this..  when you have to move the axle to the from and back.. its  connected to that brake caliper.. so if that brake caliper is tight where its connected to the brake swingarm..well. that baby will not budge and thus..no matter what you do..its not going to budge until you untighten that one bolt.

Numbers... parents couldn't think of a name so gave you a number? Cool 

Anyways. Instead of trying to have a Page as your avatar, try the pic instead it works much better. Here's the image code you want and shown below http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs273.snc1/10035_526374629400_53901351_31534121_4854120_n.jpg



Michael

Quote from: Bluehaze on December 22, 2009, 07:19:53 PM
Lol .
I know exactly you issue.

You have to loose your brake swingarm. where its connected to the rear brake calipers.  Its not mentioned anywhere on manual.  But once you do that.. you will notice that you can slide the right side as far up and as far down as you need to. 

Trust me i had to same issue and it took me a while to figure it out.  Its not an issue if you are just adjusting minimal amount. but when you ahve to adjust a lot.. you have to lossen that bolt.. it allows that caliper that is also tied down to the rear axle to adjust.  The reason behind this is this..  when you have to move the axle to the from and back.. its  connected to that brake caliper.. so if that brake caliper is tight where its connected to the brake swingarm..well. that baby will not budge and thus..no matter what you do..its not going to budge until you untighten that one bolt.

This is true but we shouldn't have to move the axle much to get the correct chain tension.  If it needs to be moved a lot that means the chain is worn-out.  By the description of the chain in question here it's beyond bad and is in a dangerous condition.  Motorcycles are not bicycles.  Riding with a crusty, rusted chain with rusted, frozen links that don't roll properly over the sprockets is asking for a hospital stay, or worse!

bill while it is true that in this particular situation more likely he needs to change the chain.   it is important to note in the manual that you may need to think about loosening that bolt.   it would be a great help when you change sprockets from stock. which would require more movement of the wheel axle depending on the case. 

Quote from: mister on December 22, 2009, 08:59:15 PM

Michael

sweet, is that duplicolor engine paint? looks like my front fender when I painted mine to match the new yellow tank 

I had similar stuck right side axle the first time I tried aligning my '08.  I took delivery of it and it was a bit out of alignment.  Had the local dealer "adjust it", they got aligned by loosening the left side!  Goose loose!  So, if ya want it done right, DYI.  But that damned right side would not move and I knew nothing about the brake caliper deal until a few minutes ago.  I loosened the axle nut and adjuster on the right side, pushed the bike backward briskly and slammed on the rear brake, after about three such aggressive moves the axle moved easily through its range and I aligned it.  No problems and have adjusted it at least once since.  I have also cleaned and inspected rear caliper ( while adding anti-squeel to backs of pads) and it seemed good.  But I reckon I will have to examine those "caliper swing arm bolts" to see if I buggered them or what, 'cause I sure did not loosen anything like that.

prs

Wow alot of helpful info here, thanks everyone.

So I loosened the brake caliper swingarm, and disconnected the mount that connects the caliper to the axle nut. So basically the caliper is free of the disc, and it moves easily on the swingarm. However, still can't get the frickin thing to move forward! I cannot tell what the hell is holding that wheel in place, the axle nut is loose and the wheel is free of the caliper. Any suggestions? I tried the brisk backward movement and slamming on the rear brake a couple times before removing the caliper, and no visible progress.

I have a new chain, but am waiting to figure out the alignment before I put it on. Is that a mistake, meaning is the old chain possibly causing misalignment somehow?

ohgood: rotor (do you mean disc?) is ok
don't know what the cush drive is. 
bearings seem good
haven't checked front cog yet, thanks for the 411

and jeremy_nash: ha not sure what kind of paint that was, but it was on my old 1991 motor which comes black. talking about the yellow? dunno also ask the PO. its pretty gooped on there on top of some other colors lol this bike has been around.

Think i'm done fudging around for Christmas eve, but I'll likely be back at it tomorrow. Thanks all, happy holidays.

Another thing:
Anyone have a tip for removing the master link? I found it, but like I said earlier the chain is pretty crusty and is making it more difficult. I hear there is a tool you can pick up at home depot; necessary? Should I just try to pry it apart again with a flathead? Can't wait to align and put on the new chain 

I spin the wheel until the master link is on the rear sprocket and use a flatblade screwdriver and a small hammer to get it off.

-Jessie

Hmm thanks for the tip but how do I use a hammer with a flathead? I tried prying with the flathead, but it didn't quite work.  Explain for a tard? 

Lay the  screwdriver blade flat against the open end of the master link and tap the end of the screwdriver with a hammer until the link moves back.  Once the link moves back a bit you can move the screwdriver to the other end and work it out the rest of the way.  Crappy diagram below

-Jessie

Dude was that just for me? I guess merry Christmas haha thanks alot (no seriously)

picture is worth a thousand words.. here is the bolt i am talking about to loosen.

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on December 24, 2009, 08:36:40 PM
Lay the  screwdriver blade flat against the open end of the master link and tap the end of the screwdriver with a hammer until the link moves back.  Once the link moves back a bit you can move the screwdriver to the other end and work it out the rest of the way.  Crappy diagram below

-Jessie

Something get flipped?  My bike looks like this:  



But this makes the METZELER on the tire wrong. I'll look again after I wake up.   

Quote from: gsJack on December 25, 2009, 06:12:58 AM

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on December 24, 2009, 08:36:40 PM
Lay the  screwdriver blade flat against the open end of the master link and tap the end of the screwdriver with a hammer until the link moves back.  Once the link moves back a bit you can move the screwdriver to the other end and work it out the rest of the way.  Crappy diagram below

-Jessie

Something get flipped?  My bike looks like this:  



But this makes the METZELER on the tire wrong. I'll look again after I wake up.   

holy smokes ! i didn't notice that at first ! good eye gsjack.

the met's print is on mirrored, or he has a RIGHT SIDE DRIVE gs, along with a metz that is printed in mirror.

wtheck is going on with that picture ?



either way... the master link's CLIP must point OPEN END to the REAR OF THE BIKE when the chain is above the axle. that means the CLOSED END of the clip is always traveling FORWARD when the bike is in motion. if it's installed incorrectly, it can be dislodged by sticks/rocks/orings/whatever and the master link will have nothing holding it in place other than the friction of things.

i want a better look at that picture now

Ok, well I got the wheel to move finally Just took a little sleep.
Gonna work on all that in a few hours when i'm really awake
happy holidays everyone 

Pic solution.  That's not a GS500 in Jessie's picture.  No GS rim with spoke wheel.