I had mentioned before in another post that my bike is running poorly.  It refuses to idle and likes to hang at high RPM when given throttle.  I am guessing it is due to a very lean condition in the bike.

My first step was to clean the carburetors.  They are both in good shape, no obstructions or rust.  I am replacing the stock jets with the recommended #40 pilots and #125 mains for stock configuration.  I'm also going to put the washer on the piston/diaphragm needle.

While I had the tank, airbox and carburetors off, I opened the top of the engine and measured the valve/camshaft clearances with a feeler gauge.  Spec is 0.03mm-0.08mm.  This is what I found:

Two of the valves are too tight to allow the 0.034mm gauge to fit.
One of the valves is between 0.078mm and 0.010mm.
One of the valves is more loose than 0.010mm!

Big problems.  I hope this was the cause of my problems.  I'm going to replace the shims and get the valves to spec.  However, I am now wondering if anyone has any experience using the shim removal tool.  It came in a bag with the bike and I am told I just need to place the end on the notch in the bucket and push the tool down.  

Does anyone have any advice?  And how easy is it to get the new shims back into their places?

Thanks.

ASLAM.

Quote from: aslamHowever, I am now wondering if anyone has any experience using the shim removal tool.  It came in a bag with the bike and I am told I just need to place the end on the notch in the bucket and push the tool down.  

Does anyone have any advice?  And how easy is it to get the new shims back into their places?

Thanks.

ASLAM.

I would have to see the tool. But for now, is the bag, the black tool bag that comes with the bike? Most shim removal tools utilize the edge of the shim bucket to depress the spring (underneath) so you can get out the shim using the notch to get a screwdriver to lift up the shim out of the recess in the bucket for the shim. It can be easy to slip the new shim right in (the tool should still be in place holding the bucket down, thus you are only going to be exchanging one shim at a time.

The valve is too tight but if it was too tight to let you spin the bucket around with your finger that would be too tight to let it run right, or cause damage. So yes you should adjust it but no real worries.
Alos check for tight choke cables, throttle cables and yes the over all lean setting form the factory could be the real culprit. 40/125/3 truns out/1 washer should solve that. Loose valves make noise, but not affect runnign much unless they are waaaaaaaay loose.
Cool.
Srinath.

Does your tool look like this?


Or more like THIS?



Either way, here is a high-level look at the process (Figure 5.11b is obviously a misprint):



Once the tool removes the pressure from the cam follower (bucket), it's not too hard to get the shims out.  Putting them back in is as easy as popping a Mento into your mouth - they all but jump back in.  

PS - Make sure you cover the gaping hole below the valves so that you don't drop anything (like a shim) down there!

EDIT: Changed links from sisna.com to bbburma.net

Note: You do not have to actually remove the bucket as shown in pictures 5.11a and 5.11b.

The valve tool I am describing is the top one in the pictures posted by Kerry.  Not the homemade style.  And not anything in the tool bag under the seat.

It doesn't seem like a horrible thing to take these shims out then.

When you mention make sure to cover the hole, are you referring to the engine case that the cam chain is traversing or the inside of the valve assembly (bucket, springs, etc.)?

Thanks for very helpful information...

ASLAM.

Cam chain tunnel... nothing can be dropped under the bucket...
Cool.
Srinath.

Oh yeah, I noticed that.  To remove the bucket would require a removal of the camshaft which I am trying to avoid for the time being.  I don't want to have to worry about adjusting the chain to make sure the timing is set correctly.  

ASLAM.

I'm in the process of taking my shims out...

I have the Suzuki Valve adjuster tool and I can see how to rotate it on the camshaft to push down the bucket, but I'm not having any luck pulling out the shim.

The Clymer manual says to rotate the bucket until you can see the notch, and then, I'm assuming you can use the notch to pry the shim up with the bucket compressed using the tool.

However I don't have any tool small enough to get into the notch to pry up the shim and I can't figure out how I would rotate the bucket.  It's completely firm and nearly completely covered by the camshaft.

Any suggestions?

ASLAM.

Just checking... have you rotated the cam so the lobe is nowhere near the shim?  (Like in the photo from the Haynes manual above.)

Make sure that the valve adjuster tool is pushing down on the bucket ONLY and not on the shim.

To remove my shims I used the smallest flat-head "jeweler's" screwdriver from one of those $5.00 sets (at Radio Shack, etc.).  If you have a glasses repair kit the flat-head from that may work, too.

I can't remember if the shims are magnetic.  But if they are, one of those those magnetic "retrievers" would come in handy too, especially once you can pop the edge of the shim over the lip of the bucket.

First, rotate the engine so the cam is not pushing on the valve bucket.
Basically the same position it should be in to check the clearence.
Then you should be able to rotate the bucket so the notch is accessable.
You need a very small flat tip screwdriver to fit in the notch.
When the bucket is rotated where you want it, turn the motor so the cam opens the valve. Then insert the tool in place to hold the bucket open.
Rotate the cam backwards just enough to allow removal of the shim.
MAKE SURE you stuff a rag in the cam chain opening.
The shim is stuck in the bucket from stiction with the oil. When you catch the edge of the shim (with the little screwdriver) and pry it out it might pop out and jump into the cam chain area.
Use a micrometer to check the actual thickness of the shim and calculate what you need to replace it with. They do vary a bit. Check the new shim too.
The ideal setup is to mic the selection of shims at the dealer to find the ones that are closest to what you need. That is if the dealer even HAS a selection
Then pop in the new one and rotate the cam forward to release tension on the cam shim tool. Done.