Quote from: brianut on April 06, 2010, 06:08:58 AM

Quote from: O.C.D. on April 05, 2010, 02:57:54 PM
I was wondering when you were ever gonna come around.

work  and life has been crazy

What Duc did you get?

A 1995 916, I was a senior in high school when this bike graced the showroom and went to Laguna seca that year and wet myself over all the 916's on Ducati island.wanted one ever since and after 15 years the price has dropped enough to allow me to afford one.

The wife said next year that I can get a Streetfighter in the fall.  Over 3 times the horsepower of the GS, I can't wait!
I dont like you anymore, your gs is way nicer than mine and if you get a streetfighter, well the 916 is a timeless classic but that streetfighter (red S) does to me now what the 916 did to me in '95, jerk! 

A quick pic then I will unhijack

I don't mean to be rude but how dare you post a carboned-out, Termi'd exhaust, one of my all time favorite bikes ever- Ducati 916 in my puny little GS500 build thread!?!?!?!?!!? 

Screaming nice bike Brian!!!  I almost bought one this last fall but the wife said I should get a newer bike.  "but Honey, it is a classic Ducati!  Who cares if it is 15 years old, you should hear how it sounds!", I said.  Nice grab, seriously.  Makes the GS look like a Cracker Jack toy.  Thanks for sharing!

The streetfighters look fun but I don't think any bike that Ducati has put out since has anything on the 916/748s, I know they get lighter and faster, but still, no other ducati's would make me jealous if I had a 916.

scscwefwec

Have you put any spacers/washers behind your sprocket yet?  I did mine last week and the nuts holding the sprocket on are SO close to the swingarm.  I guess there is no problem since they aren't touching.

Rear sprocket?!  Not yet.  Chain hasn't got here yet.  I will though very soon.

What does the return cable on the GSXR do? All the bikes I've ever had only had the one able. I've seen plenty with 2, but never really been sure what it was needed for.

Same principle as opening the throttle, return energy to assure that the throttle closes and the gas intake is cut off.

I know the normal throttle cable comes up from the front and wraps over the top and towards the back of the bike, so when you twist the throttle it pulls the cable, and when you let go the spring from the carb will pull it back. Does this second cable wrap around the same direction doing the same exact thing, or does it come up from the back? I'll have to look it up on wikipedia or something later.

fsevwv

I forgot to mention the orange wire in question, it is in the blue box.

Oh, and what the heck is a sidelight circuit?  For fun I put a bulb in it and it worked,   

The turn signals being LEDs will definitely do exactly what you're saying. Either replace them with some bulb signals, or wire in the proper resistors or whatever they take. At the moment even if the light up your bike doesn't even think there are bulbs in it.

What's a passing circuit? You mean that button some bikes have that flashes the highbeam? Wouldn't that be on the left side? That's where it was on my last bike, but I guess they could all be different. I didn't think they really put any normal controls on the kill switch box.

I unfortunately don't know anything about starters. Did you try to bump start it just so you can at least try riding it? I know that's not the right answer but I get very impatient with things, and there's no way I'd be able to wait through a wiring fiasco to play on a bike.

Well, the bump start is irrelevant as there is no fuel or tank attached.  I am trying to get it wired properly, then attach a separate petcock/small tank of fuel to tune the carbs without the tank on.

If this build has been a war, I have won 97% of the battles.  To win the war though, these last three battles have to be finished.  This is the part that takes the longest - the push.

I am getting all philosophical because I am so ready to be finished.

What is that other plug input that I added?

Guys, anyone else please?!

Not 100% sure on the LED's. The el cheapos that I bought were wired with the proper resistors on the board inside so there wasn't a need to add one in line as long as I also had an LED module in the rear that matched. I believe I read or found out that if I used an LED up front with a stock light in the rear, then the problem you are seeing was basically what you should see. I believe it has something to do with the proper resistance in the whole circuit and the flasher module can't handle it.

As for not starting, have you bypassed the interlock (Safety) switches at the side stand and clutch control? If not, you might want to consider that. I believe the interlock in the headlight it a white and yellow barrel plug and there is a female / male. You definitely want to try and trace that down but what I have found is that I can connect the female / male inside the headlight and get past the control.

The other connector is down near the solenoid. There is a Green wire? with a black blade style plug. The other end is barrel plug I believe. Anyway, connect those together and that should disable the sidestand.

The other thing is a grounding wire for the whole system but if you are seeing power, then that grounding wire might likely already be attached.

It sounds like you are really close.

I think I remember seeing something online that you plug into your LED turn signals and it gives them the proper resistance. I have no idea where or what it was called, so I'll let you search google for that one. Go ask around at customfighters.com. Someone there will definitely know.

As far as your tuning gas tank, I'll take a picture of the one I made when I was messing with my carbs. It was super easy and works really well, and it'll save you the half hour it took me to search around home depot for parts that'll work.

Jump the starter, make sure it turns, I have fought with what I thought was wiring for hours only to find out the starter its self was bad.

Next check to make sure the hot lead to the starter is in fact hot, and then check the signal wire.

My guess is that one of the safety's is blocking the signal wire from providing the signal to make that starter go. Neutral or clutch or side stand ect...

Would ya believe that neutral, side-stand, and clutch all work?! That is what is killing me.

Something else I thought of, the oil light is laways on. I think my issue lies in that orange wire that is not connected.

I am heading outside now and will try and take video from this handy dandy droid, lol.

Hey, I took some pictures of the bottle setup. I'm not going to post the actual pictures because I don't want to hog your build thread, so I'll just post links....

First is a picture of the whole setup. It's a water bottle, with a hose on one end and an air valve on the other...
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4008/4555977513_ecb3d4e327_b.jpg
This is the air valve, it looks gross, but it's just gorilla glue. I cut the presta valve out of an old bicycle tube, cut the rubber around it to a smaller circle, screwed the locknut on the outside, then covered that in glue to seal it up.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3030/4555977211_c9d34cccc7_b.jpg
This picture came out awful, but it's hard to tell looking at the little screen on my camera. It's a 1/4 fitting that I picked up in the air compressor parts second at home depot. They had the same exact thing in the plumbing section but it cost more there. I drilled a hole in the cap, rubber washer, metal washer, and then the fitting.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3571/4556605778_9ca8b177b2_b.jpg
This is the back of the cap. I couldn't find any good sized nuts that went on it, so I picked up 3/8x1/4 reducer and cut the top threads off, then used it like a nut, again with the rubber washer and metal washer behind it.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3492/4555977371_847056ffa6_b.jpg

These are the fittings I used...
http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Air-Compressors-Tools-Accessories/h_d1/N-5yc1vZb8mrZ60lu9/R-100000128/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
and
http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Air-Compressors-Tools-Accessories/h_d1/N-5yc1vZb8mrZ60lu9/R-100026474/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

It helps to have a second cap too, so when you're done using it you can just screw a real lid on and seal it. The bicycle tube valve really helped. Without it you would get a vacuum in the bottle and it probably would stop letting gas out. The bicycle valves are really nice because they're made to easily let air in, but not out, so when gas drains and the bottle needs air it'll let some in, but if the bottle accidentally tips upside down or something it won't all spill out. You can press it in with your finger and it'll let air go either way, or you can screw the little nub on the end in and it won't let air in or out. It's nothing fancy but it's soooo much easier than messing with the gas tank. You could even fill this one up with enough gas for a couple trips around the block I'm sure.

That is a great setup - I am going to try her out once the wiring is set.  Thanks for sharing.  Heck I even say edit yourpost to show the pics.  You can never be too helpful I think.

svsvwv