tt_four : i'd say start at 250 but that's just me. make sure to measure with calipers too? i had a few 265 that ended up being 263 and that made a bit of a difference.

I will be rejetting my carbs to see if that stops my hanging idle. I will let you know what happens.

I've definitely been measuring mine. The one thing I was curious of when I was doing it though.... If I measure a shim with my calipers it's going to measure the highest point. Wouldn't the center of the shim wear down slightly since that's where the cam rubs it, while the outer edges would be untouched? So even if the center, where the cam rubs is 263, couldn't I still get a measurement of 265 when I measure the whole thing? Or are shims hard enough that they don't really wear down like that?

Quote from: tt_four on April 26, 2010, 04:33:01 PM
I've definitely been measuring mine. The one thing I was curious of when I was doing it though.... If I measure a shim with my calipers it's going to measure the highest point. Wouldn't the center of the shim wear down slightly since that's where the cam rubs it, while the outer edges would be untouched? So even if the center, where the cam rubs is 263, couldn't I still get a measurement of 265 when I measure the whole thing? Or are shims hard enough that they don't really wear down like that?

never thought of that.. but generally i would assume that it shouldnt matter? i'd imagine you could test by placing your thinnest feeler gauge across the shim and measuring to see the difference in measurements. not sure if it'll work, but it's worth a shot if youre really curious

so i started today by taking off the black caps to the carbs to adjust the needles, finding that there were 6 grooves in which the C clip could go.  i'm assuming this means the needles were probly not stock? well i decided to be adventurous and i put them on the lowest setting (closeest to center of needle). my assumption is that the stock has the C clip about a mm from the end, and putting a washer in when rejetting would keep the black thingy from raising so high (pardon my disregard for the actual names of things)... so with the option to just lower the C clip position, i did that instead of using washers. is my process flawed??

anyways.

sorry to gloat.. but NO MORE HANGING IDLE!!!  idles much better and is actually responsive to the idle screw
except now itll cut out if i leave the throttle barely barely open. too rich right? im gonna follow the Poor Man's Rejetting Pictorial to try and get the air screws just right.. and maybe check float heights.. i'll update when i can 

Quote from: pandymai on April 26, 2010, 08:03:09 PM
so i started today by taking off the black caps to the carbs to adjust the needles, finding that there were 6 grooves in which the C clip could go.  i'm assuming this means the needles were probly not stock? well i decided to be adventurous and i put them on the lowest setting (closeest to center of needle). my assumption is that the stock has the C clip about a mm from the end, and putting a washer in when rejetting would keep the black thingy from raising so high (pardon my disregard for the actual names of things)... so with the option to just lower the C clip position, i did that instead of using washers. is my process flawed??

Your needles are probably just from a european bike. They come stock with grooves and c-clips.
Glad to hear that it solved your problem.  

My bike has the dynojet needles in it. I've been wondering if I might do better just to stick the stock needles back in and leave the dynojet jets in there. People seem to hate DJ stuff.