Hi all,

       Earlier I went to for my longest trip so far I'll say around 100 miles of twisties and freeway riding and everthing was ok except when I started going to the exit ramp to my home from the freeway and I started easing of the throttle to slowdown and all of sudden I noticed the bike going faster rather than slowing down I mean "REALLY FAST"  and when I look down I saw the RPM going up fast (past 10000 rpm) even when I have the throttle close so I downshift to slowdown the bike and then rpm went to red line that's when I just hit the engine cut off switch and cruise to stop on the shoulder.  
       
         Anyway when I stop,  I flick the throttle check the choke to see if its sticking and check the choke but  it wasn't but when I started the bike the the rpm jump to red line again, I then let it sit for a few minutes while keep flicking the throttle and this time when I started the bike everything was ok and able to get home with no incident.

               This experience scared me and good thing I didn't panic when I try to slow down the bike by front/rear braking and good thing I'm already on the exit ramp not on the freeway don't know what might have happen then.  So what do you think guys replace the throttle cable or something else.  Thank's all.

Quick thinking on using the engine kill switch!  (Are you an MSF graduate?  :mrgreen: )  Scary times indeed....

I went back through your posts to learn more about your bike.  It's a 1995 (or is that 1994?) model with over 10,000 miles on it.

If you don't know whether the choke and throttle cables have ever been lubed, now would definitely be a good time to do it.

It can be hard to tell a stuck choke cable just from the "feel" at the choke lever on the handlebar.  It's better to observe the "business end" of the cable:



On my 1996 bike the return spring started to stay compressed when I pushed the choke lever forward, because the cable was stuck inside the sheath.  After having to pull over and hop off the bike a few times (in surprise high-rev situations) to pull on the cable, I fixed the problem.  I either lubed the cable or replaced it, I can't remember which.

For a better idea of the location of this part on the bike, see the original image.

I didn't get a clear idea from your post about how the throttle felt as you "flicked it" after you pulled over.  Did it snap closed when you released it?

EDIT: Changed links from sisna.com to bbburma.net.

I just purchased a used 2001 bike and it did the same thing,  I left the building were it was stored and hit the first stop light and it stayed at high revs,  my first thought was stuck throttle but when I turned the throttle it returned to original position but the bike still stayed at high revs.  I then took off and came to the next stop light still at high revs, needless to say when I arrived back at the building the bike still was at high revs.  I hit the kill switch and turned the bike back on and it dropped to normal idle,  I then twisted the hand grip and let it go, it then returned to normal idle position "the grip not the bike"  but the bike stayed at high revs,  after doing the same process once more kill switch and all the bike returned to normal idle after the hole process.  How can I tell if it is the choke or the throttle cable sticking I am totally new to this bike and was even unaware of the chocke thing I guess I kinda forgot!!  How can I check if the choke is on and causing this or if it is just the throttle cable.  If the cables need greasing how do you go about that?? :dunno:

There are two ways that I know of to lube a cable.

One: A cable lube tool. It is a little metal block that attaches to the end of the cable. It has an orifice in it to spay lube in. The block force anything you spray into the cable.

Two: Is the gravity/funnel method. Attach a piece of tube over the end of the cable. Attach the other end of the tube to a funnel. Fill the funnel with oil, and suspend the cable and funnel to let the oil drain through the cable. Make sure you have a good seal between the cable and tube. A light weight oil works best. When oil starts to seap from the opposite end of the cable its good and oiled.

Quote from: jasonwesHow can I check if the choke is on and causing this or if it is just the throttle cable.

The picture in my previous post shows the choke in its OFF position, with the plunger (the angular-looking piece of metal) withdrawn from the carburetors.  If the lever at the handlebar is in the OFF position (fully forward) but the spring in the picture is compressed and the plunger stop is up against the carb body, then your choke cable is binding up somehow.

Quote from: jasonwesIf the cables need greasing how do you go about that?? :dunno:

The first step is to gain access to the upper end of the cable.  A repair manual will walk you through the correct steps for the particular cable (throttle, clutch, choke).

The "fashionable" way to actually lube the cable is to use a cable lubing kit.  It can be tricky to attach the hardware piece correctly (so the lube doesn't spray all over) but it's quick.  Chaparral Motorsports has the kit (part #353-0305) for $13.99.  Or you could just buy the can of lube (part #353-0304, currently out-of-stock) for $3.75.

There are also various no-frills ways to lube the cable:

1) Drip motor oil (or your lubricant of choice) onto the cable itself, one drop at a time, and watch it disappear into the cable housing.

2) Wrap a little funnel of Saran Wrap (or equivalent) at the end of the cable and

pour an amount of lubricant in.  It's the same idea as before, only you can do something else while the lube makes its way down the cable.

3) I'm sure you could come up with a few others.[/list:u]

Kerry,
       Yeah thanks for the MSF course for quick thinking and when I flick the throttle it snaps close right away when I release it. Anyway I'm off to buy a new throttle cable and hopefully it's easy to put it on myself.  Thanks all.

Have you left for the dealership already?  I'm wondering why you decided to replace the throttle cable.  Since the throttle snaps back OK, I don't see any obvious problem there.  If you still suspect it for some reason, I would try lubing it before replacing it.

You didn't say anything about the choke lever position, or whether the cable seems to be stuck.  Again, I would try lubing before replacing.

The risk is that you throw a new part on and it doesn't fix the problem.  Of course, you could always stumble upon the REAL problem while you have things torn down....

Kerry the choke lever position was in off position(forward) with the plunger away from the carburetor when the high revving happened.  I also turn it on and off a few times and saw that it wasn't binding before I started the bike and the rpm jumps to red line the first time.  I don't really what happened but after I let it sit it a few minutes(with flicking the throttle and the choke) the bikes runs fine.  Could it be a because last week I forgot to fully turn off the choke ( I left half way out) and rode for about 20 miuntes before I noticed it and somehow mess up my choke?  Haven't bought the cable yet might try to lube first as you suggest.  Again thanks for your help.