I was changing my oil, and when I was screwing the filter cover back on 1 of the 3 screws that comes out from the bike snapped.... What now?

Btw it's a 05.

You get a prize for being the 1000th gstwins member to do that.      Search, there are many threads for fixing it.

That's why I don't bolt mine on, I just tape he cover on with duct tape 

Quote from: gsJack on March 12, 2011, 04:55:20 PM
You get a prize for being the 1000th gstwins member to do that.     Search, there are many threads for fixing it.

lol I took care of it, asked my dad what to do and he showed me the double nut trick to get it out. The dealership didnt have the bolt in stock, and the hardware store didnt have a similar one either. So I just bought 1 long bolt and screwed it in all the way. Its gonna make changing the oil next time take an extra minute or two but it works.

I just searched it up and wow it is pretty common... that sucks

Yikes! I can hardly wait to do my first oil change.   

Quote from: gsJack on March 12, 2011, 04:55:20 PM
You get a prize for being the 1000th gstwins member to do that.     Search, there are many threads for fixing it.

Jack, how many times have you seen that exact post over the years?  Sorry to hear about the luck on the bolt.  I have done similar on other bolts etc.  It really feels pretty rotten when you do it.   I snapped a bolt off flush in a Chevy 350 engine block some years back.  Was a biatch to get out but lived to tell about it.  

Now you know how little torque those will stand.  I think there is a tendency to overtighten them because nobody wants to leak their oil out and damage their engine....or leak oil directly in front of the rear tire...... You will be blown away how easy it will seal without overtightening.  Take care.

Scott

o m f g

So I filled it up with oil, and was letting it run. I saw a tiny bit leaking from the bottom of the filter cap. So I tightened every bolt just a little bit (only using my wrist right above the wrench) and when I tightened the last one (the brand new one, top left) it snapped.

Now I have a my bike full of oil and a snapped bolt... so f%$king mad right now.

They can put men on the moon but they still can't make a postcard carousel that doesn't squeak or a GS oil filter bolt that doesn't snap off when you look at it funny.

Quote from: pawo on March 14, 2011, 02:26:14 PM
o m f g

So I filled it up with oil, and was letting it run. I saw a tiny bit leaking from the bottom of the filter cap. So I tightened every bolt just a little bit (only using my wrist right above the wrench) and when I tightened the last one (the brand new one, top left) it snapped.

Now I have a my bike full of oil and a snapped bolt... so f%$king mad right now.

It was probably a pinched 0-ring seal causing the leak and further tightening wouldn't stop it anyway.  I had one leak once and just took the cover back off and replaced the seal.  Put the drain pan under it when you take the cover back off but you won't loose much oil unless you run it with it off.  After that I grabbed a couple fingers of all purpose grease and heavily coated the seal every oil change to keep it stuck in the groove.  I must have done over 50 oil changes on my GS500s in 160k miles and haven't broken a cover bolt yet so it can be done.  After saying that I better be super careful next time.   

^ thanks

I think I'm going to buy a bunch of these

http://www.nutsandbolts.com/m6-x-10-x-35-metric-hex-bolt-cap-screw-109-qty-25-p-1800.html

What kind of bolts are the stock ones? I'm guessing (hoping) the 10.9 stainless steel is going to be stronger.

Quote from: pawo on March 14, 2011, 02:26:14 PM
o m f g

So I filled it up with oil, and was letting it run. I saw a tiny bit leaking from the bottom of the filter cap. So I tightened every bolt just a little bit (only using my wrist right above the wrench) and when I tightened the last one (the brand new one, top left) it snapped.

Now I have a my bike full of oil and a snapped bolt... so f%$king mad right now.

Same happened to me on my last service (the leaking after tightening), so I went to the bike store and bought a new seal for $11.90 and haven't had any issues since 

this was a brand new seal

so? how those bolts looking? stronger than stock?

Quote from: pawo on March 12, 2011, 06:20:54 PM

Quote from: gsJack on March 12, 2011, 04:55:20 PM
You get a prize for being the 1000th gstwins member to do that.     Search, there are many threads for fixing it.

I just searched it up and wow it is pretty common... that sucks

I guess thats what comes with a bike thats seen no engineering changes or improvements for 20+ years   Maybe Suzuki will finally update this relic for 2012...

I don't know the strength rate of the OE, but sounds like they are on par with a desicated turd.  Stainless is typically not strong, but can be grade 8 even.  Thing is, you don't want it too strong or you will be dealing with stripped threads in block.  Get the seal on, tack it with wheel bearing grease or silicone grease and push the cover on firmly as you set each fastener just barely hand tight.  Then with a nut driver snug them up, not even tight and all the same, maybe in three stages: finger, almost snug, and snug.

prs

PRS alluded to the problem with using a bolt where there should be a stud and it has nothing to do with the grade of the bolt.  Threaded aluminum will not hold up to frequent installation and removal of a bolt.  If you must use a bolt, you also need a threaded insert. 

The capscrew is only a temporary fix until you can get a new stud for the next oil change.  Continue to use a capscrew in and out of the aluminum block and it's only a matter of time until you strip the threads in the block.  Learn to tighten the acorn nuts without breaking the studs.  Easy does it.

Quote from: gsJack on March 14, 2011, 08:14:03 PM
The capscrew is only a temporary fix until you can get a new stud for the next oil change.  Continue to use a capscrew in and out of the aluminum block and it's only a matter of time until you strip the threads in the block.  Learn to tighten the acorn nuts without breaking the studs.  Easy does it.

thanks, saved me some more trouble.

Should I just go to the dealership and get the original ones from them? or find a higher quality stud? I'm having a hard time finding a m6x1.0x35 stud... lots of capscrews but no stud.

Quote from: pawo on March 15, 2011, 11:17:49 AM

Quote from: gsJack on March 14, 2011, 08:14:03 PM
The capscrew is only a temporary fix until you can get a new stud for the next oil change.  Continue to use a capscrew in and out of the aluminum block and it's only a matter of time until you strip the threads in the block.  Learn to tighten the acorn nuts without breaking the studs.  Easy does it.

thanks, saved me some more trouble.

Should I just go to the dealership and get the original ones from them? or find a higher quality stud? I'm having a hard time finding a m6x1.0x35 stud... lots of capscrews but no stud.

I'd just get the oem ones from the dealer.  If your concerned about tightening the cover acorn nuts I think  Pigeonroost's suggestion to use a nut driver is a good idea.

That's the best suggestion. There's no need to use a ratchet on these. They don't need to be tightened down to were we're cracking covers or breaking bolts.... 

UPDATE:

I bought a nut driver and everything, new studs shipped in, was ready to fix it until...........

I took the cover off and noticed there was only 1/4 inch of the stud sticking out, so I couldnt do the double nut trick to get it out. Vice grips didnt do anything either.

What the f.. do I do now?  I guess all you can do is drill it out. I really dont trust myself doing that. Is that something dealership will do?

gahhhhhhh