Does this have a long onset period generally or is it a more distinct threshold, like something that exacerbates itself once it has begun? Also i feel like my bike has more pull while its cold and then after its warmed up i feel like it is a bit worse. for example, im getting almost no pull after ~6k... 2nd gear wont get me more than 60km/h with any kind of force... thats not right, is it?

and this is just a matter of the friction/plain plates or could it have to do with the larger bits like the pressure plate, centre, or housing? i can feel my wallet burning already... 

in every vehicle i've owned, theres been no point where the clutch was holding one day and not holding the next. and yes, once a clutch starts slipping, it will only get worse. if your bike is revving out without the appropriate speed response then yes your clutch is slipping more then it used to. ie: 6th gear at 6k rpm used to net you 80mph but now it only nets 65 then yes, clutch slip iirc.

in my personal experience, most clutch slip will happen in 1st and 2nd gear under heavy throttle, you will have the engine rev easily and the bike wont accelerate normally if at all

as far as replacement of parts, i have no idea. this is my first gs and the clutch in mine sticks just fine so keep us updated on what you find

clutches wear out and then they slip, thats what happens

you could open it up and have a look, but probably just need to get new plates and perhaps springs

Or your clutch cable is stretching and needs adjusted (and soon replaced).

First off make sure the clutch is properly adjusted all 3 places.  The pushrod free play adjustment is often overlooked and usually needs adjustment at least once to get it working right.  I put 80k miles on my 97 GS and now have over 85k miles on my 02 GS both on the original oem clutches.  Got both bikes with too much pushrod free play and it had to be set properly to get the clutches working right.  I only set them once on each.  Both bikes started getting some clutch chatter making low speed downshift engagements on steep up grades after they had 70k miles or so on them.  I just slipped the clutches a lot to avoid the chatter and after the 97 GS had over 88k miles on it my son put in a low milage used engine due to high freeway oil consumption and tore the old one down.  I saw the clutch friction plates and the lining still looked good after all those miles of hard use.  New clutch springs would probably have helped a lot.  Start with getting it adjusted correctly all 3 places before you open it up to check the friction discs.  If the adjustment is OK and the friction plates look good try some new springs, aftermarket stiffer ones might help.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=52728.msg595663#msg595663

Thanks guys, so far I've gone ahead an checked the cable in the 3 points starting with the push-rod adjustment and working back to the handlebar, and that all seems ok. My next step will be to verify the plates and springs and see what needs replacing.

Almost, but not quite.  You also need to make sure you don't have gas in the oil.  That will make your clutch slip and will also destroy the engine.  Best of luck to you.

also, if you have used an oil that has friction modifiers, that will also cause the clutch to slip.  I had that issue, and had to replace my clutch at 8k miles, due to it.

uh oh. i've been using formula 1 10w40 with wearguard... im guessing the wearguard is a friction modifier...

have i got to do something special when i switch now? or as long as its semi-synth but not friction modifier it should be ok?

I wonder how many oil changes it will take you to get that shtuff off the clutches?

What exactly is that formula 1 10w40 with wearguard oil you refer to, is it the Canadian Tire Motomaster Formula 1 Motorcycle Oil?  If so a quick Google shows it has a JASO-MA rating and that means it does not have the friction modifiers.

The "wearguard" probably refers higher levels of additives like zink that increase the film strength of motor oils and has nothing to do with the friction modifers.  Many mc owners manuals still refer to API-SG or earlier oils as being recommended if their mc specific oils are not used.  The API-SA thru SG oils had higher levels of zink which resists viscosity breakdown in motorcycle engines that lubricate the trannys with the same engine oil.  The advent of cat converters for autos required the reduction of zink in motor oils since it was harmful to the converters so the newer API-SL or SM or wherever they are now in API ratings don't have as much zink.



Personally I currently prefer the Shell Rotella 15W-40 heavy duty oil for my GS since it has the JASO-MA rating and the higher zinc levels and is reasonably priced.  I used the 15W-50 Mobil 1 full synthetic in my first GS for 50k miles and saw no advantage for it's use in GSs.  In fact my GSs actually run cooler with the Rotella 15W-40 or equiv oils but forget I even mentioned it or we'll be starting another oil thread here.  

Yes, i wasn't clear at all, but that is the oil i was referring too.
so thats good, regardless of the work i need to do i'll feel less bad since i didn't cause it that way.

fwiw, I have never seen an oil with a viscosity rating of 10w40 that has friction modifiers, but I just run valvoline 10w40 in everything from my motorcycle, dirtbikes, cars-trucks, and my lawnmower.  I buy it in the gallon jugs and save big-time!