Over the past couple years, people have PM'd me about my clutch upgrade and how difficult it is.Well,not very difficult, and can usually be done in a couple hours.I don't have pics but I'll give ya the part numbers/names and tools I used.Go ahead and get things for an oil change.The oil will need to be drained out before work can begin.You will also need to adjust your clutch at the engine and at the lever.I got lucky and only had to adjust mine at the engine.This is also for stock replacement clutches.

Parts
SV650(99-02) EBC Kevlar Racing Clutch Friction discs-This should cover all years.
SV650(99-02) Barnnet Racing Clutch Springs-This should cover all years.BE AWARE THAT THESE SPRINGS ARE CONSIDERABLY STIFFER THAN STOCK.THREE STOCK SPRINGS CAN BE USED TO LIGHTEN THE FEEL.EVERY OTHER SPRING WILL NEED TO BE A STOCK SPRING FOR A LIGHTER FEEL.
Gasket Suzuki P/N 477598-001 This may vary with year model.
Oil Filter
4 quarts of oil-I use motorcycle specific oil for wet clutches.
Red Lock Tite
Blue Lock Tite
Carb/Brake/Parts cleaner-Spray can type.

Tools
Service Manual-I used a Clymer.
Various metric sockets and ratchet,Also need an allen/hex head socket for clutch removal.Any cheapo will do.
Inch pound torque wrench-NOT FOOT POUND These can be borrowed/rented from some auto parts stores.
Gasket scraper or razor blade-Be careful not to nick or scratch and gasket surfaces.
Lint free shop cloths
Oil catch/drain pan
600 grit sand paper
Micrometer
Feeler gauges
Rear stand if you don't have a center stand.
Large flat end screw driver
Flat surface for checking clutch plates.A good quality flat kitchen counter usually works.


THIS IS MY TECHNIQUE.THERE ARE VARIATIONS ON HOW TO PREFORM A CLUTCH REPLACEMENT.I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES CAUSED BY AN IMPROPERLY INSTALLED AND ADJUSTED CLUTCH.THIS IS HOW I DO MINE.ALWAYS CONSULT A PROFESSIONAL WHEN IN DOUBT.

With that being said.Here's how I did my clutch upgrade.I followed the manual.  


Just kidding.I did use the manual for most of the inspection and replacement.Get the bike up on it's center stand, or a rear stand, if you don't have a center stand.First thing I do is get a gallon size zip lock bag,pour about a half a quart of oil in the bag,set in the clutch friction disc(not the steel clutch plates)in the bag with the oil.Make sure to seal the bag and get most of the air out.Set it aside for later.First thing I do is run the clutch lever adjuster all the way in.Then I run the clutch adjuster, on the side cover, all the way in.Doing this will make sure that there is nothing pushing the clutches apart,or trying to hold them apart on reassembly.Now I drain the oil,and change the oil filter.This is how I do it to keep from forgetting to change the filter later.Make sure to reinstall the drain plug and move the pan over and under the engine side cover.There won't be much oil come out, but there will be enough to make a mess.Clean the side of the engine before tear down.This helps keep the internals from getting dirty.Now,remove the little round Suzuki side cover.Take a picture and make note of how everything is assembled.Now disassemble everything per the service manual's instructions.If you are planning a Bob B. advanced ignition rotor,now is a good time to send it to him.Please include payment, and a token of your appreciation, when sending your rotor to him.He is a great guy to work with.Now that you have the ignition off and set it aside,remove all the bolts holding the side cover on.Double check and make sure all the bolts have been removed, or the side cover could get cracked or broken during removal.DO NOT STICK ANYTHING BETWEEN THE SIDE COVER AND ENGINE CASE TO PRY THE COVER OFF!There are two tabs to use to pry the cover off,pic are below.It shouldn't take much pressure to pop it loose.Carefully remove and scrape any old gasket off the mating surface.It needs to be flat and smooth when your done.Use some spray cleaner and a cloth to clean the inside of the side cover.Set it aside to dry.Now locate and remove the six clutch retaining bolts.Remove the springs and keepers.Clean and set them aside for now.It takes a little muscle to pop these loose.Be careful.If a bolt breaks,the entire clutch basket has to be replaced.The first thing to come off is the clutch pressure plate.Clean it with spray cleaner and a cloth.Then inspect it per the service manual.I like to lightly sand the clutch mating surface with 600 to 800 grit sand paper.Just enough to knock off the shine but leave no sanding swirl marks.Clean again and set it aside for reassembly.Next remove the clutch friction discs and steel clutch plates.Clean the steel clutch plates with spray cleaner and a cloth.Be careful not to cut yourself on the sharp edges.Again,refer to the service manual on how to inspect the steel clutch plates.Replace as needed.If I have to replace one,I replace them all.It's ok to trash the friction discs,they're being replaced anyway.Again,I like to lightly sand the steel clutch plates to remove the shine.Clean the clutch plates and set them aside.Here is where things get interesting.I inspect the clutch hub and basket with it on the engine.If I have been having clutch problems such as severe slipping,chatter,grabbing,or sticking,I remove the clutch hub and basket.For reference purposes,the clutch basket's proper name is outer housing or primary drive gear.Cover the internal parts with a cloth and then scrape off the old gasket.Clean the mating surface and check that it's flat.Now wipe down the internal parts as good as possible with a cloth and prepare for reassembly.Install a friction disc and then a steel clutch plate on the clutch hub.Every other one should be a friction disc and ending with a friction disc.Keep the zip lock bag of oil for later.Install the pressure plate.Now for the clutch springs and keepers.If you want serious clutch grip,install all six of the new springs.This set up is good for built engines and racing.For street use,install a stock GS spring in every other spring bucket.Put a drop of red lock tite on the bolts and torque everything down per the service manual.Now,adjust the clutch and lever per the service manual and check for proper operation.Adjust the clutch on the side cover first and then make fine adjustments at the lever.Now onto reinstalling the side cover.Make sure the side cover is clean and dry inside.Lay it next to the bike, making sure the bottom of the cover is facing the bike.Grab the new gasket and zip lock bag of oil.Use your finger to smear oil,from the zip lock bag, on the gasket.The lay the gasket on the side cover in it's proper orientation.It can only go one way and line up.Put a couple bolts in the top of the cover,making sure they hold the gasket on for assembly.Put one very small drop of blue lock tite on each bolt and reassemble.Torque to spec per service manuals instructions.I do a clock wise pattern when I torque down the bolts.NOTE-YOU DON'T NEED MUCH LOCK TITE AT ALL.JUST A TINY BIT.ENOUGH TO KEEP VIBRATION FROM BACKING OUT THE BOLTS.I have lost bolts off my bike because there was nothing but torque holding the bolts on.These bolts are very lightly torqued which puts them at risk for being vibrated loose.The oil on the gasket helps it to swell and stop leaks.NOTE-DO NOT USE ANY KIND/TYPE OF SEALER ON ANY ENGINE GASKETS OR SURFACES.IT WILL DISLODGE AND BLOCK THE OIL GALLEYS RESULTING IN A BLOWN ENGINE.Wipe the engine down and fill with oil.Clean the area under the bike and let it set for about an hour.Now go check for leaks.If there is leaks,pull the side cover,and check the engine case and side cover for old gasket material or defects.Reinstall as I mentioned above.If there are no leaks,go for a ride and recheck the oil every few miles to insure there are no leaks.Be gentle on the clutch for the first 500 miles to give it time to seat in.Then giver h377.


Side Cover Pry Tabs.This is one of my parts bikes.

great post!!!!!!!!!.......,my clutch is slipping and i need to do a replacement , this will definitely help

Thanks.

Sounds like this would make for a wheelie machine! I bet you could abuse this clutch all day long without problems.

Quote from: jeffdodge on May 03, 2011, 08:20:45 AM
Sounds like this would make for a wheelie machine! I bet you could abuse this clutch all day long without problems.

I guess.I'm not a wheelie guy.I just like killing curves, since I live int the foothills of the mountains.

A few blows from a rubber mallet will dislodge most any stuck part that isn't bolted in place.

Not sure why you'd want to run stiffer springs than stock. Our GS500 doesn't put down enough power for the springs to be an issue. Abuse such as repeated race launches (3+ without a cooldown) will cause the plates to overheat, but they recover just fine if you give them a little bit of time to cool (speaking from experience.)

I do both. I live where all the roads have curves and I use almost all my tire; my last dirt bike was a CR250 with a barnett dirt digger and CR500 clutch springs for a barnett upgrade, so it bit hard and always pulled up. I miss that.

Quote from: burning1 on May 03, 2011, 04:47:24 PM
A few blows from a rubber mallet will dislodge most any stuck part that isn't bolted in place.

Not sure why you'd want to run stiffer springs than stock. Our GS500 doesn't put down enough power for the springs to be an issue. Abuse such as repeated race launches (3+ without a cooldown) will cause the plates to overheat, but they recover just fine if you give them a little bit of time to cool (speaking from experience.)

I've never had any issues with removal/installation of a clutch on any bike.A rubber hammer shouldn't be needed.

I run a 160 rear tire that gives more traction and weighs more,plus I do a lot of shifting through the mountains.We have tight curvy roads here.The stock GS clutch will slip fairly easy after riding all day blasting up/down hills.This I feel is reason enough for the heavier springs.Besides,the clutch springs are fairly cheap.I give $12 for all six Barnnetts that I installed.I did get a close out deal on those,thanks Bob B.

Here is the post where I broke down the cost between a factory replacement and my aftermarket upgrade.Seems I gave $10 for my Barrnett clutch springs,I was thinking $12.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=42447.0

My aftermarket clutch upgrade $78 all in.

Factory replacement clutch parts $138 all in.

so the everything you used for this mod will work on a 91?

Quote from: nydad19 on May 03, 2011, 08:03:31 PM
so the everything you used for this mod will work on a 91?

Yes,it will work on all years GS up to 2004.I'm not sure about 05+.I really don't think there were any changes after 04.It's just the newest bike that I know of that had an SV650 clutch installed.

these parts you listed should be sv650 (99-02) and if its a street bike maybe go with barnett friction disks instead so its not so stiff...gonna order the parts tonight so just making sure i get it right......

$46 kevlar clutch friction discs
$10 Barnett clutch springs
$12 engine side cover gasket
$6  10-40 Valvoline motorcycle oil
$4  Fram oil filter with cover O-ring
-----------
$78 for clutch upgrade and oil change

Quote from: nydad19 on May 03, 2011, 08:20:04 PM
these parts you listed should be sv650 (99-02) and if its a street bike maybe go with barnett friction disks instead so its not so stiff...gonna order the parts tonight so just making sure i get it right......

$46 kevlar clutch friction discs
$10 Barnett clutch springs
$12 engine side cover gasket
$6  10-40 Valvoline motorcycle oil
$4  Fram oil filter with cover O-ring
-----------
$78 for clutch upgrade and oil change

That's correct.For a softer feel, but firmer than a stock GS,you need to use 3 of the Barnnett springs.The friction material doesn't make the clutch effort more firm.It just cuts down on slipping and grabs faster as the clutch lever is being released.

thank you much...let you know how it goes for me when i get it all done....first time messing with the clutch so its gonna be an experience

Quote from: nydad19 on May 03, 2011, 08:36:41 PM
thank you much...let you know how it goes for me when i get it all done....first time messing with the clutch so its gonna be an experience

You're welcome and Sounds great.

Here's a pic of a GS clutch that has been removed from the engine.YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE CLUTCH.I have marked the three springs that need to be replaced with the new springs.Don't mix up the new and old springs.They usually look the same.

Replace every other spring with the upgraded springs for softer feel.This will be slightly firmer than a stock GS clutch feel.

wow i cant find those friction plates for less than a $100 with shipping......and i still have to get the springs and stuff...o well gotta get it done ....best place is ebay so far at about $85-$90..

Prices have went up over the past couple years.

i found a kit for about $120 on ebay..it comes with the discs and the springs from ebc...it should be the same outcome without the barett springs i assume...i also found a full barett kit with friction plates ,steel plates and springs for $150 but i dont think the steel plates are necessary...just putting the info out there for anybody else following the post

Quote from: nydad19 on May 03, 2011, 09:20:14 PM
i found a kit for about $120 on ebay..it comes with the discs and the springs from ebc...it should be the same outcome without the barett springs i assume...i also found a full barett kit with friction plates ,steel plates and springs for $150 but i dont think the steel plates are necessary...just putting the info out there for anybody else following the post

If the clutch has been slipping,I would check it out, and make sure the steel clutch plates and pressure plate is still in good condition.As far as EBC,it's better than stock GS or SV,unless it's kevlar.Then it's a lot better.As far as EBC replacement VS Barnnett replacement,they are about the same and better than stock SV/GS.

I should add that this is my opinion and I am going on my personal experiences with these two products.

Quote from: ben2go on May 03, 2011, 07:36:18 PM
I've never had any issues with removal/installation of a clutch on any bike.A rubber hammer shouldn't be needed.[/blockquote]

Shouldn't be needed on the clutch, but it works wonders on stubborn engine covers, and it's far more gentle than a pry bar, even with the tabs. Everyone should have a big rubber hammer. :laughing

Quote from: ben2go on May 03, 2011, 07:36:18 PMI run a 160 rear tire that gives more traction and weighs more,plus I do a lot of shifting through the mountains.We have tight curvy roads here.The stock GS clutch will slip fairly easy after riding all day blasting up/down hills.This I feel is reason enough for the heavier springs.Besides,the clutch springs are fairly cheap.I give $12 for all six Barnnetts that I installed.I did get a close out deal on those,thanks Bob B.

http://gotbluemilk.com/web110502b/s/imagepages/image189.html
http://gotbluemilk.com/web110502b/s/imagepages/image207.html

I spent Monday running my GS500 around Infineon raceway in the A and B groups with a 140mm wide rear tire and the stock (93 vintage) clutch. No issues whatsoever. :dunno: