Ok so, ive decided to keep the GS and fix the goats issue (two magnets not glued down) 

To fix this ive sourced a rotor from the site which is in route.  Now whats my best method to remove that damn bolt holding on the rotor.. I have access to a breaker bar, 18v Mikata Impact driver and possibly another set of hands for the project. Would i be better off with a slide hammer and one of those rubber band type wrenches?

Please help...

I pulled the oil pan today, cleaned it up and replaced the gasket, no sign of any debris..

I believe the impact driver should take it off.  I guess I am not sure what bolt you are talking about though.

Electric impact wrench will do little more than annoy you ... unless that bolt was already loose.
Air impact wrench is likely to work. Then you may need a sliding hammer to get that rotor off the crank - any one know where my slidign hammer went - well I sent it into circulation about 2 years ago.
Cool.
Buddha.

If all else fails, you can put the bike in gear and put a 2x4 through the spokes on the rim so that it hits the swing arm.  This will essentially hold the engine still while you try to use the breaker bar to losen the bolt.  I was lucky that my rotor and the bolt worked itself loose and I didn't need to use anything to remove it from the crankshaft.  But I did use this method to torque the bolt back down.

Well wish me luck i gotta breaker bar, strap wrench and a hammer... Will see what happens when the part gets here.

Hey btw.. the pm i sent about the rotor removal refers to the threads on the rotor itself and it is for pulling the rotor off after you remove the 17mm bolt holding it onto the crank. Once the 17mm bolt comes off, the rotor will still be help on by pressure against at tapered end of the crank.

When I removed mine to replace the starter clutch assembly, I just put a box end wrench on the bolt and gave it a good sharp smack with a hammer, that is usually good enough to break it free, the hard part I found was getting the proper tourque (sp) when tightening it back down.

As for the rotor, I didnt have a slide hammer and unlike the manual says the rear axle on my 03 is not the same size, so i just used a 3 arm puller, it took quite alot of pressure, and scared the crap out of me when it finally popped free, but its been 3 or 4 thousand km since and no issues

Looking more into this looks like im gonna need http://www.bikebandit.com/dennis-stubblefield-flywheel-rotor-puller-14mm-x-1-5 and a slide hammer to suite. I have no idea how this thing works...

Also found this http://www.bikebandit.com/bikemaster-magneto-flywheel-puller-for-honda-xr-xl-cb

Bump - so i ordered the Stubblefield rotor puller anyone know how to use this thing?

Strap wrench and standing on the break = failure getting this damn bolt of, used a breaker bar and a mallet still no luck.. guess i gotta borrow my friends portable air compressor and buy a cheap impact gun... 

I just removed two this weekend.I put my bike in 6th gear and got my oldest son(13) to hold the brake pedal.I had no issues breaking loose the rotor bolt.Then I used a grade 8, M14x1.5, three inch long bolt to push the rotor off the crank snout.I used anti seize to keep the threads from galling.Took me about a half hour to remove both rotors.I used a large 1/2 inch drive break bar to loosen the bolts.When things stopped moving,I just whacked the end of the break bar with a hammer,and it popped right off.Remember to torque the rotor bolt down to 81-96 foot pounds and use red Loctite.Make sure everything is perfect with the starter clutch and rollers.Oil it up really good before you slide it on the crankshaft.

I should add that my clutch upgrade has a lot more holding power than the stock GS clutch.So my method may not work on your bike.Doesn't hurt to try.

thx for the info much appreciated, my clutch was slipping a bit in 6th gear when i forced it..

Well the bolt was stripped i got it out but the Crank Shaft threads are fubar. I dont have a shop so no way can i replace the crank, rethreading it doesn't seem like a real option.

I'm chocking it up as a loss and a learning experience.  This thing is costing me too much money I would rather make payments and have a warranty at this point.  Anyone near Eastern North Carolina need a parts bike?

Give me the details on the bike and a price.PM it to me and also where you are located.

Not familiar with that part of the bike, but if the threads are internal to the crankshaft, why not just helicoil the thing? That can be done with the crankshaft in place.

I'm not to sure that a helicoil would hold up.Besides the crank would have to be removed to be drilled oversize and tapped for the helicoil.Not sure there is enough material there to do it without cracking through the tapered crank snout.To many unknowns to spend that kind of money on a cheap bike,unless you're a diehard GS fan like me.If this is his first project bike,I'd move onto.

My parents live outside of Lumberton, NC its right off I-95 area code 28371. I might be able to truck it down there but it would be a 4 way trip for me and cost me close to $100+ in gas with my dads f-150.  Might be able to work something out that way but i would need some help in gas.

Quote from: jebz240 on May 12, 2011, 02:08:10 PM
My parents live outside of Lumberton, NC its right off I-95 area code 28371. I might be able to truck it down there but it would be a 4 way trip for me and cost me close to $100+ in gas with my dads f-150.  Might be able to work something out that way but i would need some help in gas.

I am trying to work something out,so I can come to G'ville.Did you check those numbers to see if they matched?

 Had to buy a impact gun, impact socket set, tap, t-handle, starter clutch spring and cap (lost one it flew away), metric 1/2" hex set, new rotor bolt.

Soon as the bolt, cap and spring get here i am gonna go forward with this, anyone ever working on this go-ahead and get a compressor, even the hex bolts on the starter clutch/rotor were so tight it a impact gun was needed.

Stupid bike bandit is holding up this process.