Swapped to a Virago - Thanks for the interest all.

1993 GS500e Parts Bike for Sale. 13k miles and Clean Title.

The bikes located at area code 27892, outside of Greenville, NC.

The Crank Shaft bolt threads are shot, Bike was running great, everythings there. Nothing else is wrong with the bike, i found this issue when removing the Stator Rotor after finding a couple of loose magnets.  I cant justify fixing it after putting so much into it already,

Details-
1. Newer Carbs 2007 Rejetted by Buddah, two months or so back.
2. K&N Lunchbox Air Filter
3. Yoshi Exhaust
4. Newer Tank, Plastics and rims 2002+ model I think.
5. Spare Stator Rotor used in good condition
6. Brand New bikemaster SuperBikebars, Grips, Bar-Ends, and OEM Clutch Cable
7. 2 month old Scorpion Battery (sealed)


Im hoping to sell it as whole at a discount, locally. If not i will entertain parting her out. Im up for trades + ill throw in $$ to get something thats running, but thats a long shot.

Let me know if anyone out there is in need and close enough to take advantage of my loss. I'm looking for $400 as is, all parts included.


More pics can be taken if needed just let me know.

Thanks
Jeb

Great Deal for Parts! Bump. I would take it in a heartbeat if I was closer.

Do you still have bike if so I would like it I live in knoxville tn just a short ride..

Yep still have the bike, one of the guys here have encouraged me to try and tap the threads on the crank. I might give it a shot just for the heck of it.

any reason why the top float vent is covered? 


good luck with the sale.  if you want to sell the bar ends seperately, let me know pls.  thanks

Aftermarket petcock doesnt need PRI so no need for the vent.

Ok if you still want to sale it just drop me a line and will work it out

Quote from: jebz240 on May 15, 2011, 01:57:23 PM
Aftermarket petcock doesnt need PRI so no need for the vent.

cool, makes sense.  Free bump! 

You could weld to that part, I'd drain all teh fluids, remove the body work and tank, lay the bike over, put a nice big oil wetted rag in the cavity around the crank and do something there ... but well you need to tap it, you may be screwed ... that thing is likely to be hard as a H0neym00n d1ck. And there is no way to actually hold it ...

Cool.
Buddha.

The threads in the crank on the rotor side are easy to fix. The same thing happened to me when I decided to be lazy and not look for my slide hammer/puller to do it right. $10 for the right size tap and 15 minutes later, the GS was back on the road.

Quote from: tb0lt on May 17, 2011, 11:47:49 AM
The threads in the crank on the rotor side are easy to fix. The same thing happened to me when I decided to be lazy and not look for my slide hammer/puller to do it right. $10 for the right size tap and 15 minutes later, the GS was back on the road.

How bad was it stripped. If it was just clean up then yea. Now how did you screw those threads up not using a sliding hammer ? Cos the rotor has threads in the hole, that is what the sliding hammer threads to.
Cool.
Buddha.

Its stripped bad i would say the first 5 threads are toast, even the bolt i took out was stripped at the end of the threads.

I used a larger bolt threaded into the rotor to push it against the crank. It came out just fine.. except all that pushing chewed up the first couple threads in the crank and I couldn't get the original bolt to go back in there. I was pissed.. thought I'd need a new crank or expensive shop work. Let it sit for a few days and said.. f it... , used compressed air and brake cleaner to blow out debris from the hole, got a 12x1.25 tap and after 5-6 VERY NERVE RACKING turns, the tap got in far enough to grab on to the good, deeper portion of the old thread. Got the tap back out, blew out the crap from the hole again and tried the original bolt after a prayer..... and it was a success.

OK I know from experience you cannot tap steel by hand. TB0lt - you did a clean up. While still very good, its no where near what it takes to tap steel.
I've recently been tapping aluminum, and in the 6mm I am cutting in it I get about 6-9 turns before either the tap is going to break or my handle wants to slip. Needless to say I back out cos 6-7 threads is plenty.

Jeb - you can attempt a clean up, but dont go past the bad threads, cos you dont want to get into the good threads with a tap not in the right groove ... the thing is you would end up boogering the first 5-6 threads bad in the worst case, but see there is likely another 5-6 threads behind it that could just about be fine for your purposes to retain it. What you do is make sure it gets enough threads, then put the rotor on it and press it as tight as you can with something, which means you need to do it wiht the bike horizontal. Like place a block of wood over it and hit it straight and square with a big hammer. The taper will let it get seated nice and tight. Then bolt it in with loctite. The bolt just retains it, the fact that its pressed on will keep it in place.

Cool.
Buddha.

Thanks Buddah. Hope this shizzam works.

I was taught to tap in small increments. Go 1/4 to 1/2 turn then back off a little to break free the bits that are getting cut. Then repeat. A little cutting oil (if none, any oil or WD40) helps. After you go a a few turns, sometimes remove the tap, clean the chips off, and put back in - this clean out the chips that cause the tap to get stuck. Those bits getting tapped off are like stuff from a metal lathe - except they're in a hole with no place to go except make the tap get stuck. On a lathe, they just fly away and fall on the floor. Same as drilling really long holes in wood. You go an inch or two then pull out the drill to remove all the wood chips and go back in for more.

Drilling the right size hole is important. If really hard material and a used tap, go 0.01" or so larger on the hole.

Start really careful so you are not tapping at an angle (a sure way to limit how far you can tap).

Doing it that way I've been able to tap pretty deep holes without ever breaking the tap. (Learned that back in the days when we had really good metal shop teachers in junior high.)

I tapped holes for some front fender holders. 3/8 aluminum rack panels cut up (pretty hard aluminum alloy). Stacked 6 together. Drilled them then tapped the 4 holes all stacked together and held in a vice. If I didn't go in, back out, go in again, repeat.... I sure would have broken the tap. You can feel when things get tough - time to back out and go back in. Ran the tap all the way through.

I've used the same method on angle iron and steel. Just can't do hardened steel - its harder than the tap (unless you buy a $100 super hard tap)

Yep, technique makes all the difference. Also, the type of tap (geometry and other features) will determine how easy it will be to tap different materials. Buddha, I use an industrial quality nitride coated set with a fairly large tap handle and have had no problems tapping 1/2" thick steel plate.

I also am a weakling and I probably have extreme mechanical sympathy. But yes forward 1 turn, back 1/4 turn, and also every 2-3 turns get the thing out, cleaned out and re lubed with sutting fluid. In spite of all that it was looking like the tap was going to break off.

Now Of course my genius friend decided that he was going to tap the entire thing, so he simply turned it around and tapped from the other side. OK so in 5 out of 6 of those the threads did not line up. Anyway didn't matter to me, I was going to use a short bolt and just use the 5-6 threads.

Anyway back to Jeb's problem. Tap or I should say clean the first 5-6 threads, then get the bolt started, then get it to the end of the bad threads and see if ti will go past and enter the good threads. That will tell you if your front threads are in phase with the threads in the back and then you can get the bolt out and tap all the way through. And yes you're going to need cutting fluid meant to help with steel, not aluminum, and maybe use a spray coolant like wd40 in the hole.

Cool.
Buddha.

Tapping sucked, bikes still for sale $400 nothing less. all parts included.

Sweet deals available at the Wrong time = The Suck!

If I wasnt in the situation im in now (including $ needed elsewhere) and had a truck, I would be all over that.

Visually Very nice condition, Ton better then mine, + title.
ugh if only my situations were different, would just swap out My bikes motor and whatever parts to that!

Good luck selling it tho