Okay here it is....

Most already know this from previous posts but here it is again for reference.

Starting Point - Dyno Jet Kit with what they call "Stage Three" mains and their needle. Their needle is set at #2 notch per instructions. Initial mixture screw was at 2 turns per directions. K&N air filter the one piece unit. Stock Exhaust.

Ending Point - Same as above except 3 full turns out on mixture screw.

Everything screams above 3500 rpm. Try to slam the throttle and it bogs down for second and then the tach flys all the way to redline.

I have tried increments of the mixture screw from 2 all the way to 4 turns out with a no go. I have a Vance and Hines exhaust coming should be here tomorrow.

Heres the questions.... Do I need to change the pilot jets and if so what size mikuni's?

Thanks for help in advance... Louie

You have the #37 pilot jet blues.  Fortunately, many of your GS's problems is cured by replacing the pilots and doing a carb synchronization.  The jets you need are #40 Mikuni NON-BLEEDER pilot jets (Suzuki part #09492-40014).  This will eliminate many, if not all, of your low-speed problems.  I'd wait until installing the pipe until making other needle or jetting changes.  You didn't modify the slides, did you?  

Yup... however check if the throttle position is ~1/8 throttle when you see the problem... Jetting is dependent on throttle position more than rpm. 0-1/8th throttle is pilot... Check floats... U tube method to the level of the gasket in both floats... (same as stock).
Cool.
Srinath.

When I rebuilt the carbs I checked the float level and double checked to make sure it was at stock level. Ok there.

I figured I was having the pilot blues. I will order the jets tonight.

I will also not play with the needles until after mounting the exhaust.

QUESTION- Should I go back to 2 turns on the fuel mixture screw?

I DID MODIFY THE SLIDES per the directions on the dynojet kit. Check link below to help you help me on this next part. I only installed one of the correctors instead of two. I drilled and tapped both sides of each slide but only installed one corrector which was the plug. I left the other corrector out which makes the hole smaller. So I have one plugged hole and another hole drilled out with the 5/32 drill bit. Whatcha thinkin?

http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3128.pdf

Oy... ok I should have told to to not drill at all... OK I have a DJ kit lying about... I'll go see how big that drill is. The stock needles work fine with 1 hole or 2... most cases OK with 2, few very few need 1 only... so I guess you may be fine. I also dont know why those morons want you to drill and tap it... cos a 4-40 tap goes right in the stock hole... and 4-40 nylon screws fit there and you just slice it off with an exacto knife and sand it a little if you dont cut it well enough. Lemm check nd post back as to how big the drill is.
Cool.
Srinath.

That was a big ass drill ... but still I have left both holes open ... never even touched the slide and been fine with stock needle so you have the equivalent of 1.5 holes open... you will probably be fine with the stock needle. DJ needle has that drastic profile which is why I guess they dont want you to have slides that come up too fast. Try it... then try stock needles and 150's... and 3 turns out on air screw. If tht works fine leave that there. I dont know what it is to install the kit... I have the kit which I bought just to know what they did on it to see if there is any advantge to it... but seems like they have made it more and more complicated. Also 10-24 is what they have supplied to tap it with... Stupid... 4-40 and stock hole dia works fine. Of course a 4-40 is too small to have the hole in the middle for having a 1/2 hole configuration which you'd never ever need if you didn't have that stupid needle... all of which goes back to the needle trying to make up for too small a main jet. Never mind. BTW I called the bozo's over there once last year... and told them I have 92 concours 1100 carbs on a 86 eliminator 900... what kit should I get for that... and the moron fell out of his chair... and said bwwwwa bwwwwaaa I want my mommy....
Cool.
Srinath.

5/32 drill bit to be exact. Boy I sure wish I woulda tallked to you more before ordering it and installing it. So anyway whats done is done so I will see how things work with your recommendations.

I am changing the pilot jets to 40's. I installed there biggest jet size that they call a DJ134. Sure wish I knew what that was in Mikuni language.

I am using there drastic profile needle as well. Only problems are down low so I am thinking a pilot change is all thats needed. I am 3 turns out on mixture already. I am good past 3500. Pulls like a screaming banshee.

Only the DYNOJET DYNO will tell the tale now. I plan on doing a whole ordeal about this stock stuff versus dynojet and K&N (made by DJ enayway) I can't wait. It's going to be my labor of love.

Still working out details for the dyno with Dynojet. $11,815 for the unit and all I need is first and last months lease payment up front with a $1 buyout at the end of 60 month period. Crazy an't it. Can't wait.

OK that's good... 134 is 134 also in mikuni... well 135 is just that little bit bigger. I have been shoving drills in it couple months ago. 150 is 1.5mm dia in mikuni speak. DK adopted that drastic needle for the simple reason... they can get you to re jetting wihtout taking the carbs off... making it easy so more people will do it and so they sell more and so on... However the factories screwd that plan by installing caps on the mix screw.... Anyway Try the stock needles in that same slide before you just buy the slides. Also many people hare have dynoed their bike with or without the DJ kit in it. Jetting is to be tested with an O2 sensor.... which BTW is easy to with the Dyno run. Just  shove it in the exhaust... It comes with a 10 ft heat resistant wire. I think you are almost there... also there is a looooong and pretty old write up about making your own dyno... but i guess for a shop you need a sophisticated one... not home made concrete cast one.
Cool.
Srinath.

Yeah the shop needs a fancy one for other purposes. I need it to be mobile so I can run it up to Budds Creek in the summer and let the dirt track and sport bike riders run the dyno. The street drag nationals are 20 minutes from here and I would be the only Dyno there. Thats a good thing !!

So your saying a DJ134 is 1.34mm. If your recommending a 150 mikuni which is 1.5 mm then I am being shorted by possible midrange performance. Do you agree?

Also your telling me to try the stock needle in the drilled out slides with the one corrector sealing the left side and the open 5/32 hole in the right side to see the difference?

What happens if I take both correctors out and leave the 5/32 holes there?

Quote from: partmonsterYeah the shop needs a fancy one for other purposes. I need it to be mobile so I can run it up to Budds Creek in the summer and let the dirt track and sport bike riders run the dyno. The street drag nationals are 20 minutes from here and I would be the only Dyno there. Thats a good thing !!

So your saying a DJ134 is 1.34mm. If your recommending a 150 mikuni which is 1.5 mm then I am being shorted by possible midrange performance. Do you agree?

Also your telling me to try the stock needle in the drilled out slides with the one corrector sealing the left side and the open 5/32 hole in the right side to see the difference?

What happens if I take both correctors out and leave the 5/32 holes there?

Yes Dyno from the original dyno makers will be a sign that the operator knows what he's doing... and yes provide reliable numbers too... that can make for an apples to apples comparison...

1.34 jet works only because their needle has that severe thin taper in the last 1/4 inch... Their needle is much fatter above that... that actually makes for a interesting carburetion combo... in comparison to 150 mikuni's and stock needle if the stock and the DJ is set up right at the top end... the DJ will be leaner in the 1/2 to 3/4 throttle range than the stock. That is just relative to one another... so assuming DJ is right... my midrange with 150 and stock needle will be too rich... which will be very evident on hot days after bike gets hot... I know I am not too rich there. That makes the DJ lean in midrange... if the top is set right. Now lean by a little... heck lean by a lot is hard to determine... cos the bike will run a little hotter and make decent power so you never can tell its leaner. So my guess is the DJ kit leaves the mid range lean. So finally why did DJ do it... My guess is if their neelde has that thin a taper for most of its length... You'd break it or bend it while installing it. Fine they may sell more needles that way but they'd get more complaints ... especially from dealers who will trash them to the consumers and make the kit less saleable. Also the factory (Suzuki - not factory the aftremarket guys) really does a good job of making sure you cannot expose their weaknesses... Some thing might be crappy... but in real life useage it will be hard to expose that limitation. Their carburetion was made to please the EPA... and EPA does its tests at 2500 or so right and at idle. hence they leaned out the pilot jet and solved that issue. Countries that have no EPA... got 40 pilots but all the bikes got the same needles. Europe got the same needles but had grooves for lifting it. Hence the needles are not really the spot for improvement. mains... we got 122.5, rest of the world got 125. OK then you remove all restrictions in airbox and pipe... leave the needles and just shim it up and put in 150... that I arrived at by trial and error.

Slide correctors - OK I have left 2 holes open and not have had it hurting in anyway. I have also had to close 1 hole and leave the other open fully. Hence the magic formula... is  well I dont know... but 1 hole might ne too less, 2 might be just a bit too much... cos I can tell mine will be better with 1 blocked... but I have trained myself to not open the throttle quicker than what I do now. So have probably others I jetted... GinoVega was the most recent one... see if he can pitch in here. I believe 1 slightly bigger hole instead of the 2 smaller ones wont hurt at all... It might actually be right about perfect with Mikuni needles. Dont block it before checking out mikuni needles. Setting one carb with 1 1/2 holes and 1 with 1/2 a hole is just going to make a lot of confusing observations... no idea how it will be but set them both equal is what I think. Dont take the correctors out at all... 1 hole blocked 1 hole drilled to 5/32 might be just perfect.
Cool.
Srinath.