I did it trying to adjust the rear tire, I was wondering if anyone else have done this.
I won't hold the adjustment after a ride.
the right side moves down the swing arm
I will try to replace the nut but the rear axle is almost $50
I will keep you posted

Also Does anyone know the size and threading of the rear axle nut?  I will try to buy one at home depot.

Have you checked ebay? I wouldn't trust some random bolt and nut to replace the axle.

eBay was cheap I think I will go that route.

It's hard to strip the threads on a rear axle nut even torqueing it well past the max reccommended amount.  Are you saying you tightened it up and then the axle still slipped after riding more than once?  If so make sure you have the spacer between the cush drive bearing and the left wheel bearing or a wheel bearing can be overloaded and fail causing the axle to loosen and slip.  Happened to me once when they lost that spacer when mounting and balancing a new rear tire.  Spacer can't fall out unless the cush drive is removed from the wheel.

Quote from: gsJack on July 04, 2011, 06:11:23 AM
It's hard to strip the threads on a rear axle nut even torqueing it well past the max reccommended amount.  Are you saying you tightened it up and then the axle still slipped after riding more than once?  If so make sure you have the spacer between the cush drive bearing and the left wheel bearing or a wheel bearing can be overloaded and fail causing the axle to loosen and slip.  Happened to me once when they lost that spacer when mounting and balancing a new rear tire.  Spacer can't fall out unless the cush drive is removed from the wheel.

The bike was out side for years and I the metals weakened/corroded  and pretty much crumbled, then obstructed the un-threading and ate up the threads.
I will take the wheel off and see if all washers are accounted for.

Rear axle and castle nut are M14 x1.5 Grade 8.

Quote from: ben2go on July 04, 2011, 10:16:31 AM
Rear axle and castle nut are M14 x1.5 Grade 8.

Your the man! I am going to get one and see if it will work,  it's worth a try.

Quote from: Big Rich on July 03, 2011, 06:26:49 PM
Have you checked ebay? I wouldn't trust some random bolt and nut to replace the axle.

+1   If it were me, I would be getting the exact factory nut for that.  You dont want to mess with a random or "looks like it fits" nut, given what its holding in place...just my 2 cents...

Would be tough to find a grade 8 (i doubt it really is grade 8, but i digress) with the hole in it.  So that you can secure the castle nut with a cotter pin.
I would also expect the bolt to have fine threads for the castle nut.

I would get the correct part.  I would rather pay $50 (or $10 on ezbay) and wait a week than have a wheel come loose on a motorcycle. 

The axle bolt isn't a bolt its a spindle. The shank is sized and machined to accept the inner races of the wheel-bearings it passes through, its a specific part hence its price. The thread itself is a metric fine, rare but not impossible to find, however the chances of picking up a metric-fine castellated or nylock nut up over the counter in a hardware store is practically zero, there is just no demand for them outside of special applications like this......... but you might get lucky with a specialist nut and bolt supplier.

Like others have said......go OEM.

I run grade 8 nyloc nut M14 x1.5 on my rear axle.No issues in 3 years.

Really???..........What a coincidence, practicaly all of Europe including myself does too 

be nice........you silly english kniggit!

Quote from: werase643 on July 05, 2011, 12:46:23 PM
be nice........you silly english kniggit!

I told him we already got one..heheheh

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OzIMHowtL8


Back to topic.... Do you need an axle and nut...?

I have one if you need one. Send me a message if you still need one.

shawn

Quote from: sledge on July 05, 2011, 12:31:18 PM
Really???..........What a coincidence, practicaly all of Europe including myself does too  

I thought all GS ran castle nuts with cotter pins to lock them in?I changed mine over to a nyloc nut from the original castle nut.I'll get a pic when I adjust my chain later this week.

I saw someone is parting out his parts bike... maybe you can get one off of his....

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=56949.0

.......and does it look like this??



Ben.....FYI every GS5 sold in Europe since 1989 uses nylocks on the axlebolts, the first USA models use castellated nuts and split pins although the spec may have changed in favour of nylocks in the last few years.

Have a look at the torque figures for the axlebolts in the manuals, you will find two sets, one for self locking nuts and one for the castellated/split-pin nuts.

That's not a nyloc... nyloc use nylon (thus the name) to hold to the nut. It wears out after 5-6 times on/off, which is why Japanese OEM don't use them. Like below:



The correct nuts are self-retained, but have somthing like a spring washer swaged in the end that holds the last thread. I have no idea what the proper name for them is... ?