Well I have been slowely removing tons of rust from my 96 gs500e (and still have a ton to go ) After I bought this bike used (it lived outside its whole life without a cover)...
Had to remove the tank to patch a leak that formed cause of rust and then decided to just sand the entire tank down, bondo all the dents and primer it. Then just did a rattlecan paint job to prevent future rust. One of the fairings was snapped in 2 and I managed to patch that with jb weld and then sand it, primer it and rattlecan with Rustoleum Black Automotive paint.... Finally got the spray guns from my friend and going to use another friends compressor setup and actually paint the fairings and gas tank correctly.
Need recommendations on what type of paint to use.... Just going to do it all glossy back (not sure if I want to do laquer or base-clear) but unsure which paint will hold up better. Any recommendations?

If you're going to paint the fairings too make sure to use a plasticizer in the paint (if needed) so that it doesn't crack.

Past that, any automotive store can fix you up with paint. I'm a big fan of single stage paints (acrylics) on steel cars; no idea how well they work with plastics. 2-stage urethane is indestructable but nasty to work with (fumes).

Don't skimp on the prep work... that's 90% of the paint job.

Quote from: noiseguy on July 19, 2011, 07:53:04 AM
If you're going to paint the fairings too make sure to use a plasticizer in the paint (if needed) so that it doesn't crack.

Past that, any automotive store can fix you up with paint. I'm a big fan of single stage paints (acrylics) on steel cars; no idea how well they work with plastics. 2-stage urethane is indestructable but nasty to work with (fumes).

Don't skimp on the prep work... that's 90% of the paint job.

Since I have already hit it with an automotive primer (granted it is rustoleum) and a base layer of rustoleum enamel.. I should just be able to rough up those layers and spray ontop of that correct? Or should i try to take it all the way back and prime it again?

i was going to paint with rustoleum acrylic enamel too but some research showed that it would not hole up to the gasoline. so keep that in mind when you paint the tank.

i opted to get the tank professionally painted at an auto body shop with urethane bc/cc. price quotes ranged from 100-300

Then there's that. Ask the paint shop about fuel safe before buying.

My issues with bc/cc urethanes: Super toxic to spray. Expensive. Harder to repair than single stage. Look almost "too good" in some instances (though that can be taken either way)

Single stage is cheaper, less toxic (if not a urethane!). Less complicated, less effort. The enamels can be color-sanded and buffed to give a very good gloss after drying.

If the paint's adhered, I would final sand it with 600 grit wet, hit it with a dewax/degreaser, and paint over it as long as the color's close. If you're painting white over black... may want to sand down to primer and/or recoat primer first. Your call.

I painted a '53 Chev pickup with ss/cc. $1200 just in paint/primer by the time I was done. Fumes would just about make you puke. Lots of chemistry; primer was a PIA.
Did a '67 Mustang later in a single stage enamel white; I think the paint was ~$25/gallon on closeout The Mustang came out really nice, esp. once buffed out. Much easier process.

Quote from: noiseguy on July 19, 2011, 12:35:21 PM
Then there's that. Ask the paint shop about fuel safe before buying.

My issues with bc/cc urethanes: Super toxic to spray. Expensive. Harder to repair than single stage. Look almost "too good" in some instances (though that can be taken either way)

Single stage is cheaper, less toxic (if not a urethane!). Less complicated, less effort. The enamels can be color-sanded and buffed to give a very good gloss after drying.

If the paint's adhered, I would final sand it with 600 grit wet, hit it with a dewax/degreaser, and paint over it as long as the color's close. If you're painting white over black... may want to sand down to primer and/or recoat primer first. Your call.

I painted a '53 Chev pickup with ss/cc. $1200 just in paint/primer by the time I was done. Fumes would just about make you puke. Lots of chemistry; primer was a PIA.
Did a '67 Mustang later in a single stage enamel white; I think the paint was ~$25/gallon on closeout The Mustang came out really nice, esp. once buffed out. Much easier process.

What about decals? Just lay them over the final enamel coat? Always read to put them under the clear...

i did the same thing you did.

I laid down automotive primer.  then painted with rustoleum gloss enamel. then clear coated with acrylic enamel.  (which seems like what you were asking).

DON'T DO IT.  It seemed to be fine when I first painted it and it held up... until I got a little gas on it.

Entire thing melted like butter.  Now I can peel the paint off the tank with my fingers..

Maybe I did it wrong..who knows... I'm not a painter, but I'm going to a paint shop to ask them first when I repaint it in the near future (after I fix the carbs).

I'll probably go with a single stage, but make absolutely sure that it is fuel resistant because the rustoleum acrylic enamel definately is NOT.

i still see that paint peeling off in my nightmares....

I've done base/clear and it is pretty harsh (fumes) but as others have said it will hold up better.  I've spilled gas filling up with no problems.

My painting skills aren't very good but with practice I'm sure I can get better.  Now I just need a project bike to practice on.................

The autobody shop I work at just switched to waterborne PPG products a few months ago, and we love them so far. Only negative is when it's hot and humid it takes a bit to dry. We have sprayed it on new and old cars and new motorcycles and it looks great.

Quote from: motoDMD on July 19, 2011, 12:50:22 PM
i did the same thing you did.

I laid down automotive primer.  then painted with rustoleum gloss enamel. then clear coated with acrylic enamel.  (which seems like what you were asking).

DON'T DO IT.  It seemed to be fine when I first painted it and it held up... until I got a little gas on it.

Entire thing melted like butter.  Now I can peel the paint off the tank with my fingers..

Maybe I did it wrong..who knows... I'm not a painter, but I'm going to a paint shop to ask them first when I repaint it in the near future (after I fix the carbs).

I'll probably go with a single stage, but make absolutely sure that it is fuel resistant because the rustoleum acrylic enamel definately is NOT.

i still see that paint peeling off in my nightmares....

Naaa... I put the rustoleum enamel on just to stop it from rusting more... I am going to use real paint with the spray gun... just wanted to know if i should totally remove the rustoleum layers and reprimer it, or if i should just scuff up the rustoleum and then paint the real paint over it... From what I have read, the rustoleum will function as a good bonding surface... I used black enamel and going to use black automotive paint (yes i am very imaginative and creative!!!)...

I was thinking about doing something similar until I saw this:
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2490171

Quote from: joelmath on July 19, 2011, 08:16:36 PM
I was thinking about doing something similar until I saw this:
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2490171

Really, there are so many variables and things in what that guy did that I put little faith in it.
You have compatibility between paints & top coats, primers, dry time, time between coats and so much more.
There was no mention of following the directions for time between coats - something that is VERY important. Most of his problems are user problems which are detailed in a chapter of "How to Paint your Motorcycle" on what can go wrong and why. Tells you the "why" of bubbling, lifting off, crazing, wrinkles, etc.

Some things briefly: tack cloth between coats to remove spray dust that prevents things from sticking. A light wipe down with the proper cleaner/degreaser. Time between coats: at the wrong time, the surface is dry while underneath it things are still wet. The dry surface actes like a sealer holding in solvents under it. Next coat: softenes the hard top, resulting in the layers separating or cracking or wrinkling. You must apply coats in the correct time window or you will have problems.

I really think that example is a good display of how not to do a paint job (and all those pop up ads are sooooo annoying, too.)

I've painted stuff for testing and had the same problems on some things. Then, when I learned how to do it right, walla! Junior is candy red and the paint is not coming off, not cracked and not wrinkled.

You can paint - even with rattle cans - and have a great, tough finish. Preparation is important (as others have stressed) and follow directions. Also, practice on some crappy stuff until you get it right.

DECALS: they go on then your clear coat.

CLEAR: The toughest and one that won't ruin decals and other stuff (from what I found) is Eastwood's 2k Clear. 2 part urethane in a rattle can. Or have a spray gun and use a 2 part clear. A 2 part dries/hardens chemically like epoxy  rather than having the solvents evaporate (yes, there are some that evaporate, but the real hardening is the 2 parts being mixed which starts the hardening process like 2 part epoxy glue). It will harden in the can after being mixed in 24 hours.

Junior's tail was done with Colorrite candy antares red (Suzuki color). Then decals were some I had from an "F" model tail. Topped off with 2k clear.

Me personally, what I would do in your situation is sand the entire thing down with 220 wet until I start to hit parent material. If the paint's really thick and gross, use 60 or 100 grit dry on it (steel parts only for these grits!). It doesn't take that long, final coat will look a lot better. No nasty unknown paint underneath.

Wipe with surface prep.

Address any cracks/bumps with bondo or whatever.

Wipe with surface prep.

Spray with a build primer. Wet sand to 220 until light spots appear (getting down to metal again.)

Wipe with surface prep. Repeat above until all major scratches are filled.

Spray with a build primer. Wet sand to 400 until light spots appear (getting down to metal again.)

Wipe with surface prep.

Spray with build primer. Wet sand to 600 until smooth.

Wipe with surface prep.

Spray final color.

Buff.

Quote from: noiseguy on July 20, 2011, 02:00:44 PM
Me personally, what I would do in your situation is sand the entire thing down with 220 wet until I start to hit parent material. If the paint's really thick and gross, use 60 or 100 grit dry on it (steel parts only for these grits!). It doesn't take that long, final coat will look a lot better. No nasty unknown paint underneath.

Wipe with surface prep.

Address any cracks/bumps with bondo or whatever.

Wipe with surface prep.

Spray with a build primer. Wet sand to 220 until light spots appear (getting down to metal again.)

Wipe with surface prep. Repeat above until all major scratches are filled.

Spray with a build primer. Wet sand to 400 until light spots appear (getting down to metal again.)

Wipe with surface prep.

Spray with build primer. Wet sand to 600 until smooth.

Wipe with surface prep.

Spray final color.

Buff.

Unless there are major issues with dings/dents/scratches on your tank I would think 400 is as aggresive as you want to get to start with. Move up from there to 600 and then 800. At 220 you are just making more work for yourself.

Alternately, you make more work for yourself by starting with too light of a grit to handle the surface conditions. YMMV.

Quote from: noiseguy on July 21, 2011, 07:21:11 AM
Alternately, you make more work for yourself by starting with too light of a grit to handle the surface conditions. YMMV.

Roger that.

I totally agree with what's being said above too much to quote so I'll say the big ones because atm I'm rubbing my primer back for my 2k base and clear.
1. Surface prep is everything (perfect prep job for a good paint job)
2. Tack rag and wax and grease remover between primer, base and clear coats
3. Have a test piece to practise your technique and sort out your pressures and spray patterns etc
4. If your spraying mettalics before you spray your base rub down with at least 1200 grit wet
5. Wait the specified time between coats no matter what
6. Spray in light coats don't go for complete coverage in one or two coats and don't be freaked out about it
7. Make sure your strokes are even with a slight overlap and parallel to the job
8. Have a couple beers before you spray just to loosen you up and relax you, because your arms and hand will be that stiff and quite possibly sore from the rubbing in the prep work.
9. Wear proper respiratory and eye protection when using enamels and 2k paints there be some nasty shaZam! in them.

I think that should cover it hope I didn't miss anything hope it helps.

Still need a recommendation on the actual paint I should buy... I am not seeing any enamels that do not come in rattleball cans (I have 2 professional air guns available to use, so would rather do it right then with spraycan again)...

Going to just sand down the current paint and then bondo it and smoothen it out... then start the real paint over that... The rustoleum has been holding up incredibly well to everything (including gas spills) but want a better looking paint job (rustoleum just isnt professional looking imho).... Any idea about the enamel paint before i have to go with a base/clear?