Quote from: mass-hole on April 14, 2011, 02:17:10 PM

Quote from: burning1 on April 12, 2011, 11:24:46 AM
.85s are awfully stiff for a street bike. Racetech suggests them for a 210lb rider... Definitely way firmer than the R6 shock.

I am currently at 210-215, and was around 200-205 when I bought the springs last summer(DAMN IT). The R6 is defiantly a bit weak in comparison to the fronts but much better than it was before. I plan on at least getting a new spring from racetech.

I saw you said that the R6 could be the best raceday shock if set up properly. By this do you mean new springs and valving from Racetech? I was reading through your tread in the Racing section and you were heading in that direction but you never made any final conclusions.

After having run both the Katana 750 shock and the R6 shock, I'm going to lay it down that the R6 shock is probably the best choice for an average weight rider when adjusted properly. It's not necessary to re-spring or re-valve the shock; it turns out that it isn't nearly as soft as I thought it was.

At 210 lbs, the R6 shock is probably too soft for you. The Katana 750 shock is noticeably firmer, and would probably work better for your weight. The only major issue is getting it co clear the swingarm.

The biggest issue with the R6 shock is probably the range and number of adjustments. There's a lot of ways to get it wrong, and if you don't tune it properly it isn't going to work well for you.

FWIW, my old Kat shock is for sale. I've modified it to fit my GS, and it should fit yours. No harm in giving it a try, I just ask that you pass it along if it doesn't work for you.

So I just ordered a 2001 SV650 shock from ebay (yellow) and I was wondering do you HAVE to cut and drill the shock for it to fit? I bought a 2003 sv650 (white) and it didn't fit because of the dog bones. Hopefully this yellow shock will work 

Quote from: gosney_goose on August 04, 2011, 09:58:10 AM
So I just ordered a 2001 SV650 shock from ebay (yellow) and I was wondering do you HAVE to cut and drill the shock for it to fit? I bought a 2003 sv650 (white) and it didn't fit because of the dog bones. Hopefully this yellow shock will work 

I'm saying you have to because I have never run an SV shock like in your thread.I will add this.As the rear is lifted,it changes the angle of the steering head tube.This will cause the bike to feel like it wants to fall into the turns.To much angle can cause the front end to shake or wobble left to right.This is known as head shake or a tank slapper.

Quote from: ben2go on August 04, 2011, 10:02:54 AM

Quote from: gosney_goose on August 04, 2011, 09:58:10 AM
So I just ordered a 2001 SV650 shock from ebay (yellow) and I was wondering do you HAVE to cut and drill the shock for it to fit? I bought a 2003 sv650 (white) and it didn't fit because of the dog bones. Hopefully this yellow shock will work 

I'm saying you have to because I have never run an SV shock like in your thread.I will add this.As the rear is lifted,it changes the angle of the steering head tube.This will cause the bike to feel like it wants to fall into the turns.To much angle can cause the front end to shake or wobble left to right.This is known as head shake or a tank slapper.

So what can I do to counteract the effect on the steering?

Quote from: gosney_goose on August 04, 2011, 10:10:06 AM

Quote from: ben2go on August 04, 2011, 10:02:54 AM

Quote from: gosney_goose on August 04, 2011, 09:58:10 AM
So I just ordered a 2001 SV650 shock from ebay (yellow) and I was wondering do you HAVE to cut and drill the shock for it to fit? I bought a 2003 sv650 (white) and it didn't fit because of the dog bones. Hopefully this yellow shock will work 

I'm saying you have to because I have never run an SV shock like in your thread.I will add this.As the rear is lifted,it changes the angle of the steering head tube.This will cause the bike to feel like it wants to fall into the turns.To much angle can cause the front end to shake or wobble left to right.This is known as head shake or a tank slapper.

So what can I do to counteract the effect on the steering?

A raise of 1 to 2 inches makes a difference but not enough to be dangerous.Most of us short guys that are close, or over 200 lbs,use lowering links to get the bike back to level.I have not used lowering links as I prefer the quicker steering for my local hills and mountains.

My GS came with a yellow SV650 shock.  I am short @ 5'6" 175lbs, and had to drop the back end 2 inches just so I can put both feet on the ground.  I still can't flat-foot it unless I crush my balls into the front of the tank.

I have never driven anything other than this configuration, so I have nothing else to add other than to vouch that the SV shock raises up the rear end.

Quote from: gosney_goose on August 04, 2011, 10:10:06 AM

Quote from: ben2go on August 04, 2011, 10:02:54 AM

Quote from: gosney_goose on August 04, 2011, 09:58:10 AM
So I just ordered a 2001 SV650 shock from ebay (yellow) and I was wondering do you HAVE to cut and drill the shock for it to fit? I bought a 2003 sv650 (white) and it didn't fit because of the dog bones. Hopefully this yellow shock will work 

I'm saying you have to because I have never run an SV shock like in your thread.I will add this.As the rear is lifted,it changes the angle of the steering head tube.This will cause the bike to feel like it wants to fall into the turns.To much angle carn cause the front end to shake or wobble left to right.This is known as head shake or a tank slapper.

So what can I do to counteract the effect on the steering?

I installed the yellow sv shock and i did notoce a steering difference, but not so bad i wouldnt recommend this upgrade. The biggest difference is you have to turn the handlebars more into low speed turns.