So, my carbs are immaculate and the floats are within spec. He is still not wanting to idle properly either 3,000 + or he dies. If I come to an abrupt stop he just dies but if I start back up at a red light about 30% of the time he will idle appropriately at 1300 RPM. But, if I bring the RPM to 3,000 he will hang. I tried the WD-40 method and am not getting an increase in revs. I tried going back to stock on the jets no difference except when I put the jets that the buddha gave me back in it seems as if I have lost some of the umph I'm WOT now and am not getting acceleration with it I'm at a loss. I think I might have to take Flick to a shop once I get some of my school money back.

Mary

Mary, I am lost on what exactly started the problem. Did you try to rejet it?

All I can think of is that your mixture screws are messed up, or the metering rods aren't seated properly??  Not a carb guy though...I'm going off car experiences here, I never dug into the carbs on my GS...

Hopefully someone with carb experience will chime in on this...

Later.

Well, there was a rejet over a year ago. Flick seemed to have been fine but about 4 months ago this started and I've tried everything. 

Mary

Just gonna run down a check list here to see if anything jumps out.I know you've done a lot of work on your bike.

Carb cleaning and jets-Check
Valve clearances-Dont' remember you mentioning that
Tested ignition coils-? maybe
Checked wiring-? probably not it.Just good to keep a check on it.
Carb boots-check but still may be an issue.mine passed the wd-40 test but were still bad
Vacuum leak-always notoriously hard to find and fix

Everything points to a lean condition or slight vacuum leak.I'd change just the pilots jets to new ones to be sure they don't have a slight build up in them.Those orifices are so small that it doesn't take much to change their flow charateristics.

Maybe there's a crack in one of the rubber intake pipes between the carbs and cylinders, so it sucks "false air" (creating a leaner mixture)?
Could happen, and it's not visible till you take the pipe in hand and try to fold it.

throw some seafoam in there.  I use that stuff on everything.  Maybe it'll fix it, or maybe not.  It's worth a try

How's the clutch? Could it be dragging just enough to stall the engine at low RPMs?

plug pull perhaps? see what your fuel mix is like. make sure you clean the 2 little holes on the intake side of the carb real well... mine wouldn't idle when i got it and i sprayed some ether through those 2 holes and fixed her up good. Seafoam is a great tool for cleaning engines, i need to run some through my baby, put the engine on prime and run it through the petcock vacuum line. Also a little in the tank and the rest in the oil (then change the oil after 50 miles)

are you still using standard airbox ? if not suspect cracks in rubber carb mounts .go up 2 pilot jet sizes and see if there is a notisable difference they are cheap.if no joy  you have to suspect tight valves or problems in electrical circuit .warm engine and try a compression test . buy compression gauge they are cheap. i do a compression check regulary gives early warning on tight valves  .just pull sparkplug and gauge screws in or may just have rubber cup on end which is just held firmly against spark plug hole and turn engine over on starter moter ,6 revolutions or so should be plenty. compression should be between 142 to 199 psi on a good engine . do you baby your bike or ring its nuts off ? ring its nuts off keeps spark plugs and cylinders clear of carbon  .

I've checked just about everything you guys have mentioned. I think it is time to take Flick to the Pros. Valves in spec, tried differet jets, carb boots are fine, plugs are fine according to service manual, carbs are synched, good compression, clutch is fine, ignition coils are great, timing is in spec,wiring is fine. I'm not keen on just throwing chemicals in my bike on a hope and a prayer it fixes it. I did use the Suzuki engine and carb clean that you put in the tank and ran it through. Not sure what metering rods are?

Flick probably gets taken better care of than 90% of the bikes on here. I really don't believe I've ever taken him above 9k RPM.

Mary

You check the AC Generator and rectifier? What is your bat voltage at (does it appear to be charging correctly?)

Quote from: Toogoofy317 on August 10, 2011, 09:44:22 AM
I've checked just about everything you guys have mentioned. I think it is time to take Flick to the Pros. Valves in spec, tried differet jets, carb boots are fine, plugs are fine according to service manual, carbs are synched, good compression, clutch is fine, ignition coils are great, timing is in spec,wiring is fine. I'm not keen on just throwing chemicals in my bike on a hope and a prayer it fixes it. I did use the Suzuki engine and carb clean that you put in the tank and ran it through. Not sure what metering rods are?

Flick probably gets taken better care of than 90% of the bikes on here. I really don't believe I've ever taken him above 9k RPM.

Mary

OK I guess look for exhaust leak. If done -
I'll read through again 1 sec.
Cool.
Buddha.

OK is fuel flowing out the tank well ?
That is about it, I am out of ideas.
Oh wait, the O ring @ the bottom of the white guide - it really prevents air from sneaking in @ low revs ... that should be intact amd nice and bulging, not dry and cracked.
Cool.
Buddha.

After thinking about this a while this is what I come up with.

Are the O rings in good condition that seals the mixture/pilot screws?

Have you checked the tank petcock to make sure it's in the correct position?I noticed today that Mine could turn slightly passed ON which could reduce fuel flow in both on and reserve positions.

Fuel is flowing out of the tank well, can you show me a pic of the O-ring you are talking about. I had heard about a little one on the older carbs don't know if we are talking about the same thing. If that the '04 didn't have it in the parts diagram. I don't think there is an exhaust leak. I've never taken it off and when you stand behind it you get a pretty good amount coming out.

Mary

I don't have a pic of the O ring but it is tiny.If you pull the mixture screws,you can usually see it at the bottom of the port.Those O rings are bad to dissolve and clog the idle circuit.Carb clean and blowing out the carb a few times with compressed air usually cleans it out.

She will have a new fuel petcock Friday as she told be she has to run on reserve.
Then it could also be the Hoover Upright used on the kid's pet rooster (that is: vacuum to the pet-chicken).
Either way, she will have a spare come Friday to at least eliminate one problem (parts whore to the rescue).

Quote from: adidasguy on August 10, 2011, 12:57:48 PM
She will have a new fuel petcock Friday as she told be she has to run on reserve.
Then it could also be the Hoover Upright used on the kid's pet rooster (that is: vacuum to the pet-chicken).
Either way, she will have a spare come Friday to at least eliminate one problem (parts whore to the rescue).

My post above is about the tank petcock.It can actually be turned a little passed on which will restrict flow to the frame petcock.I have done this before.

Mary check that you have the needle in the slides pushed hard home they have an o ring on them to hold them in place. other posability is a sliver of rubber has come off the hose that attaches to tap under the tank having been off several times can get into carbs when on prime
Good luck