Just finished a valve job on my bike. It was the first time I did it and pretty proud of myself because I did the work myself. Fired up the bike and everythig was fine for about 10 miles and the rattle was back and losing power to the bike. Any suggestions what it might be.

check your cam chain tensioner it may have gone bad letting the chain slack and slap

Did you sync your carbs after the valve job?

Will check the tensioner and I did not sync the carbs. Don't know who to do that. Im a pretty handy person and can follow directions well. Point me in the right direction. Thanks for any help

was it hard for you to do the valve job?

i was told by a mechanic that it's a very difficult job for experienced people only, but others have told me it's easy to do with a guide and that video

No it wasnt hard, taking everything apart was the hardest part. Watch the video it is a good guid also use this link
http://gstwin.com/adjust_valves.htm. Good luck with it, take your time. Mine still isn't perfect and still some issues. It runs but there are some other things going on. You will get to know your bike a lot better.

Also go to a bike shop and order feeler guages, shim tool kit and and good telescopic magnet to remove the shim.

Quote from: rayshon on August 23, 2011, 06:10:17 PM


i was told by a person who stands to make lots of money charging me to do something, that the thing I want to have done is a very difficult job for experienced people only just like him and I should not bother to save money and do it myself and should instead not follow any online advice from other non'experienced people who have done it and should blindly follow what he says so he can charge me like a wounded bull

There, fixed it. 

Michael

Quote from: mister on August 23, 2011, 09:41:33 PM

Quote from: rayshon on August 23, 2011, 06:10:17 PM


i was told by a person who stands to make lots of money charging me to do something, that the thing I want to have done is a very difficult job for experienced people only just like him and I should not bother to save money and do it myself and should instead not follow any online advice from other non'experienced people who have done it and should blindly follow what he says so he can charge me like a wounded bull

There, fixed it. 

Michael

Perfect Editing. Well done!

Quote from: xunedeinx on August 23, 2011, 10:11:44 PM

Quote from: mister on August 23, 2011, 09:41:33 PM

Quote from: rayshon on August 23, 2011, 06:10:17 PM


i was told by a person who stands to make lots of money charging me to do something, that the thing I want to have done is a very difficult job for experienced people only just like him and I should not bother to save money and do it myself and should instead not follow any online advice from other non'experienced people who have done it and should blindly follow what he says so he can charge me like a wounded bull

There, fixed it. 

Michael

Perfect Editing. Well done!

lol'd

also wtf is a "shim"? it says

"Slide a thickness gauge between the camshaft and the shim.
There should be a gap between 0.03mm and 0.08. If it is out of specs, replace the shim with a 0.05mm thinner or thicker."

Hey at least they have lube....

Is it a random knock noise from the valvetrain area after it warms up? I got the same problem and in fact later this week im gonna do the valves on mine to fix the same prob. I gotta balance the carbs too so your one step ahead of me.

Yup its in the cam area. It makes sense that it is probably chain slap. In my haste, I did not check the tensioner. I wanted to get it running and ride so bad. I now have to take it apart againg to check the tensioner. Lesson learned..... be thorough. Found a page about syncing the carbs
http://bwringer.com/gs/carbsync.html. Havnt tried this yes and eager to do so.

Carb sync will affect how the bike idles. It shouldn't create a rattle. There should be a slight metallic ringing sound coming from freshly adjusted valves, but the noise could just as easily be cam chain slap caused by a faulty tensioner. The sounds are somewhat different, and difficult to describe over the internet.

heres a really cheap carb sync tool.
http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp

There is a BIG difference between a valve JOB and a valve ADJUSTMENT; you're ADJUSTING the valves, NOT performing a "valve job", which is a horse of a different color...

Just some friendly advice; do NOT run the engine again until you've got the cam chain tensioner adjusted properly. IIRC, you want piston #1 at TDC on the intake stroke to get everything properly adjusted; take the time to do it right and avoid the noob nightmares... you'll have enough of those without creating more out of haste.

Good luck; let us know how this turns out.

thans for the link Oracle and GSNoober thanks for the scolding, lesson learned will post results,lol!

Rattle and loss of power ... sounds like an air intake leak to me. Or exhaust leak.
Cool.
buddha.

Well I have checked, double checked, got the tank back on and went to fire it up and it started for a minute and then stopped.
DAMNIT MAN!!!!! Ive gotten pretty good at taring the bike down. My main concern is am I kremping something putting the air box in. It's very tight on my bike and I've done my best to make sure all lines, cabels and hoses are ran properly. Any words of wisdom from my more experienced friends out there.

Quote from: scrod on August 26, 2011, 06:23:03 PM
Well I have checked, double checked, got the tank back on and went to fire it up and it started for a minute and then stopped.

Did you turn the tank petcock back to on?

Michael

Quote from: mister on August 27, 2011, 12:58:14 AM

Quote from: scrod on August 26, 2011, 06:23:03 PM
Well I have checked, double checked, got the tank back on and went to fire it up and it started for a minute and then stopped.

Did you turn the tank petcock back to on?

Michael

lol'd
Already happened to me