It ran OK, like any new stock F.

OK - Got bored today and played with the bike.  Removed the PAIR system (cap airbox fitting, plug vacuum tap, remove frame mounted solenoid valve and plumbing, use early Hayabusa style PAIR block off plates available on ebay).  Removed the mixture screw caps and set the screws to 3 turns out.  Cleaned float bowls and all jets.  Added ONE shim to slide needle.  Set TPS (was set wrong at Factory).

WOW.

cleaned float bowls and jets?

i thought you have to dissasemble the entire carb and clean all of it

While a total teardown and clean is recommended, most of the crap that gums up performance is located in the jets and float bowls.

the bike was carefully maintained by the orig owner.  When I pulled the float bowls there was zero sign of any deposits so I jut cleaned the jets individually.  For carb cleaning "if it aint broke don't fix it" really does apply.

I've been working on bikes forever and these are the tightest carb screws (all of them) that I have ever seen.

The biggest difference now is pull at low RPM.  Stock the bike ran fine down there but was obviously a little lean and soft.  Now it launches better and rides better down low and in the middle.

Some minor noises have disappeared with PAIR system removal.

Quote from: rkjjeep on September 06, 2011, 03:48:09 AM
the bike was carefully maintained by the orig owner.  When I pulled the float bowls there was zero sign of any deposits so I jut cleaned the jets individually.  For carb cleaning "if it aint broke don't fix it" really does apply.

I've been working on bikes forever and these are the tightest carb screws (all of them) that I have ever seen.

The biggest difference now is pull at low RPM.  Stock the bike ran fine down there but was obviously a little lean and soft.  Now it launches better and rides better down low and in the middle.

Some minor noises have disappeared with PAIR system removal.

You removed the PAIR system? I have a 2006 GS500F, and the Hayne's manual makes it painfully clear that the world might very well end if you remove it. What's your reasoning behind it? I'm genuinely curious.

The GS pair system allows air from the airbox (and that air includes oxygen) to enter the post combustion exhaust stream to help burn off unburned hydrocarbons.  The world will not end.  This is similar to systems found on many (usually carburetted) motorcycles.  You don't really "gain" anything by removing it.  I always remove them for slight weight reduction but mostly to get rid of ugly plumbing and potential vacuum leaks.  On most bikes you eliminate some "pocky-pocky" noises that ceome from the hardware.

You remove the PAIR on a GS by identifying the vacuum hose that makes it work, disconnecting that and capping off the open fitting on the "T".  You disconnect the fresh air hose at the airbox and cap that (caps available at autozone and similar).  Then you remove everything else.  The open holes on the head are finished with small lauminum plates made for this purpose (ebay) and new, used, or gaskets made of high temp RTV.  Read "PAIR" system removal for Suzuki 1500 Intruder and others to get the basic idea.