I couldn't find any trouble shooting for this online so:

I replaced my clutch plates and springs today:

Drained the oil, took off the right side case replaced the plates put it back together, refilled the oil tried to start it to check oil level after and bike won't start, it sounds like it's turning over but just isn't getting there.

I had the bike on the center stand so I noticed that when I try to start the rear wheel turns even with the clutch lever pulled in.  The clutch also has a soft region at the beginning and then engages afterwards.   I've got gas, the battery looks fine, I had choke on, kickstand up, bike in neutral (tried out of neutral as well) and kill switch on run with clutch pulled in and nothing.  Bump start results in a skidding rear tire when i drop the clutch.

What should I check first?

rear wheel turning a bit isnt that unusual, check obvious things however like make sure you have spark for one, make sure ure plugs are clean, make sure u have fuel and that you didnt disconnect a line or anything like that,if you dont have spark check for wires that could be loose or disconnected,  if you have spark, try spraying aerostart in the carby and see if it goes then, if it does then its carby.fuel related,

Quote from: DSoup on September 30, 2011, 10:37:39 PM
I had the bike on the center stand so I noticed that when I try to start the rear wheel turns even with the clutch lever pulled in.

Moving a little bit is normal, especially on the center stand. Moving a lot (enough to move the bike, or enough to feel like it's pulling you if you're sitting on it instead of on the stand) is clutch drag and means you've got to adjust the cable.

Quote from: DSoup on September 30, 2011, 10:37:39 PMThe clutch also has a soft region at the beginning and then engages afterwards.

Also normal, there should be some slack in the cable (the 'soft region') in the cable before it's tight enough to start applying full pressure to the clutch release mechanism. Make sure you don't completely eliminate this slack, you need some, and check the slack with the handlebars locked fully right and left to make sure that you don't lose it when the bars are turned.

Quote from: DSoup on September 30, 2011, 10:37:39 PMThe clutch also has a soft What should I check first?

Well, why not check the easy stuff - did you disconnect the clutch safety wire from the bottom of the handlebar?

If not for the fact that you were starting in neutral, I'd be inclined to suspect drag/misadjustment - maybe you replaced old, thin, worn plates with fresh, thick new ones and need to adjust the cable tension to compensate. Wish I had a better idea for you.

ok so disconnected safety wire and it doesn't even try to turn over as expected.  I removed the spark plugs and they both spark and i gave the cylinders 15 minutes to dry out to see if it was that, it wasn't.  I also adjusted the cable tension.

then on a whim I took off the suzuki cover and whatever the thing that spins is didn't look right (dunno why but it didn't).  So I loosened it and retightened and then bike started perfectly.

thanks for all your help.  if anyone could tell me what that part is though that would be great.

that would be the ignition pick up, i would take the cover back off, and put some locktight on the threads to make sure it cant move, as if its not locked into the right place your ignition timing will be off and that could easily be causing your issues, i forgot that that was the same side as the clutch to.

Both the ignition pickup plate, and the rotor can come loose. When it happens, physical damage is the most likely result. I'd recommend torquing the rotor with a inch pound range torque wrench and locktiting both.

And if you want to bypass the clutch safety switch you have to take the two wires off the clutch and short them together. Just disconnecting them will ensure it won't start as you have found out!

Ohhhh, that makes much more sense.  I was confused as to how the bike would start with it just disconnected