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No Lights, No Power, Fuse ok!! ('04)

Started by Jonesy, October 24, 2011, 12:38:54 PM

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Jonesy

Hi,

I tried to start my bike and would not fully turn.  The battery is fully charged.  The next thing to happen was the Datatool alarm went off every 20 seconds.

Now there is no power to lights, ignition switch etc.  I have changed the fuse even though it was unbroken.

There is continuity from the battery to solenoid and the battery is still charged.  Please help  :icon_sad:

vinny

sounds like a dodgy earth connection to me.. check all the earth connections and clean them?

the mole

How do you know the battery is charged?

Lukewarm Wilson

Sounds like battery with full (or almost) voltage and next to no amps. IMO   :whisper: Had the same problem myself.
Experience enables you to recognise a mistake when you make it again

adidasguy

Not uncommon for people to change the spare fuse, thinking it is the real fuse. The real fuse in under a rubber cover. the spare is out in the open.

Put ground wire of meter on the frame. You should read +12 or more at the battery. If not, the ground from the battery to the frame is bad.

If alarm went off, I'd disconnect it until I have things fixed. Does the alarm cut power to the bike?

Jonesy

Hi again! Some good ideas, but already tried them :(

sveach

Can you remove the alarm, just temporarily, to rule it out?
2007 GS500F - 18k miles as of 7/15/2010

Jonesy

Tried too :( It's as if there should be another fuse.  Grrrr.

adidasguy

So, with a voly meter: the black (negative) lead is clipped to the frame? You get +12 (or more) at the battery with the red (positive) lead?
If so..... then start going down the line, following the +12 of the bike until you gots none of them there voltage thingies. Walla! (or if in Washington Walla Walla) you found the break in the +12.
Come to Seattle and visit the bike cave. I'll help you find it. Betcha we can solve it in 4 minutes or less.
Adidasguy loves to play with electricity!

sledge

Static battery voltage means JACK........ It is not a true indication of the condition of the battery. Its how the battery performs dynamically ie. under load that matters. It needs to be load tested at a shop..... if only to rule it out. When you know with 100% certainty that the battery is servicable and capable of delivering enough current to power the lights/starter start looking for faults elsewhere.

http://www.drapertoolbox.co.uk/draper-53090-100amp-battery-4719-66649

Jonesy

Shall try this....

Would you treat me to the flight from UK....?  ;)

sledge

I bet you several large beers that there are more battery load testers in the US than there are in the UK my friend  :icon_lol:

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