http://www.duplicolor.com/products/metalSpecks/

Lookin at the Retro Red for my bike.
Tank, plastics, & maybe rims.

The success stories pics are pretty nice.

Just wonderin if anyone else has used it before and liked it.

$12 a can.
Might just buy one and see how it looks on a test piece.

I have some and played with it. Looks cool. I do have the one paint that changes color depending on the angle of the light on a rear hugger. Duplicolor has some pretty nice paints.

I think it would be fine. I do suggest using Eastwoods 2k Clear on top of it. It is a 2 part urethane in a rattle can. Really tough and resistant to fuel and other fluids. Best clear coat I've seen short of using a full blown spray with 2 part paints.

thanks.
hopefully someone local has some (the clear coat)
if not, gotta keep track of how many cans of paint I use and how many clear I would need if I cant just run to the store.

Just watched a video of them doing a helmet.
Will def. have to paint my current helmet to match (now black) even tho I already plan to buy a new and better one to match.

Just researching everything I need in preparation for painting now as thats what step im on.
buying primer starts this weekend.

For a helmet and things that don't come in contact with fuel, their suggested clear coat is fine.

The difference is the 2 part clear hardens the way an epoxy does: chemical reaction between the "stuff" and the hardener. That means solvents are not used (like lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, etc.) so it is pretty impervious to any petroleum product. Once mixed, it will harden IN THE CAN in 24 hours.

Things like a tank or parts that can contact fluids, you should use a really tough clear. Not that you have to, but you might as well do it the best way possible.

Spec for Eastwood 2k Clear: Coverage: approx. 5.4 – 8.1 sq ft / aerosol at a dry film thickness of 1.2 – 2.0 μm
http://www.eastwood.com/spray-max-2k-high-gloss-clearcoat-aerosol.html

I've used this on just about everything: cowlings, plastics, metal parts...
I've applied it over different types of paint (including ColorRite and DupliColor paints) with no adverse reactions and it sticks really well. Just be sure the base coats are cured (which may take a week or so for some paints to fully cure, or baking them)
Not depending on petroleum solvents, I do not have the problem of it lifting the base coats. It is the only clear I found that works on the tail plastics - and makes them look shiny like new. Other commonly used clears would get milky or look weird.

BEFORE YOU START and BETWEEN COATS: Follow good prepping - tack cloths, wiping with de-greasers, etc. as you would with any painting you do. Observe correct flash time between coats.

thanks again.
Bookmarked that link.

and yeah, I "Need" a very good clear coat, one enough to withstand gas.

No idea what the previous owner did when he painted it but whatever it was came off Very easily when I wiped and gas leaked over the side of the tank.

So I know from that how important using a good product is in that department.

I also have all winter long, so I will be letting them cure however long is the very best.

(edit)
and the main 2 reasons I Inquired and now picked that paint.
Its different then what ppl usually use or see.
and that specific paint and color is in stock at every single Advance Auto stores within a 40 mile store search. 
closest being 2 miles

The 2k Clear has a reasonable shelf life if you order too much.
Do separate pieces so if you run out, you have pieces you haven't started applying the clear.
However, if cured, you can clean & degrease then add more clear.
You can tell by shaking the can about how much is left so you know how many more parts or coats you can apply.
If you bought too much and didn't want to keep it and use it later, I'd buy it from you at cost, since I use it a lot.

If after a week, wipe with their PRE cleaner then a tach cloth. Let dry for a half hour then hit it with another blast of clear. Probably dust and airborn contaminants are your worst enemy. You can lightly sand between coats to remove dust & bumps if the coat has sat long enough to cure and get hard. Use a painters nib file if there are drips; This is what they are:
http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=painters+nib+file&p=Q&ts=custom
Pay once and spring for the set of 3. Best way to cleanly chop off a drip. Better than sanding. Lightly run them over a surface to remove tiny dust bumps.
http://www.eastwood.com/painters-nib-files-set-of-three.html
Get on their email list for specials and discounts.

PS: Re-reading your post, you'll need to strip off the old paint and start with a good primer. Get the primer for the paint you're using. The clear you apply later, if the 2K Clear, is irrelevant in deciding on a primer. The base coat determines the correct primer.

thank you 

Yeah, the top of the tank is all the way down to the bare metal.
Still have to do the bottom but that will end up the same way.

Yet to touch the plastics tho as I've been working on the frame and degreasing.

and yeah, wont let the clear sit longer then indicated now.
wont stop with that until its finished.

When I do the color tho, is when I will let it sit for as long as it takes for Best results.

Primer.
Since I am going with a red.
would this work?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Sandable-Primer,-Red,-12-oz--Aerosol-Duplicolor_7140797-P_N3275_T|GRP2050_____

(edit)
nvm on the red.
did a google search and read a good reason NOT to go with a similar color.
because I wouldnt notice too well any of the mistakes I make.

after a lil reading.
Im thinking either a White or a Pink primer to brighten up the red more so to speak.

Primer and paint should be OK since both are Duplicolor. I believe they have a support line - call to be sure. They want their products to work so they will help you with any questions you have. If it doesn't work - it reflects bad on them.

FYI: Seems most people do not paint the bottom of the tank. l've had 3 repainted tanks of various colors - where the underside was always purple.   

Once areas are clean and free of all grease and dirt, you could hit it with a  coat of 2k Clear just for added protection. I plan to do that with a frame coming in. Clean it (though looks nearly perfect) then use a touch up pen where necessary then a coat of 2k clear for added protection.

thanks.

found a white Dupli-color primer at the same store I will be getting the paint at.

Def. do not want a red primer after reading it will be easier to make a mistake, which is what I dont want with only doing a rattle can job.

read grey compared to a white or pink primer when painted red gave a more dull finish.

prolly should have googled first before asking but im gettin tired.

and yeah my craps purple too. 
but if I am going to do the best job I can on it, not going to half @$$ it even on that. 

Do yourself a favor: buy the book
"How to Paint your Motorcycle"

LOTS of good info and especially a chapter on what c an go wrong and how to fix it.

I find it a very valuable reference.

That, and the info from the paint companies.

Good night. Sweet dreams.

Purple isn't that bad if polished up

Who would have thought - 2 purple GS500's parked together! TREY is the far one. The close one got stolen a week later. The owner just bought a red 1996 GS500 in perfect condition with a Corbin seat for $1450.
(Oh, another West Seattle GS500 owner.)

Quote from: adidasguy on November 16, 2011, 03:32:32 AM
Do yourself a favor: buy the book
"How to Paint your Motorcycle"

LOTS of good info and especially a chapter on what c an go wrong and how to fix it.

I find it a very valuable reference.

That, and the info from the paint companies.

Good night. Sweet dreams.

Purple isn't that bad if polished up

Who would have thought - 2 purple GS500's parked together! TREY is the far one. The close one got stolen a week later. The owner just bought a red 1996 GS500 in perfect condition with a Corbin seat for $1450.
(Oh, another West Seattle GS500 owner.)

awesome purple pandys over load ! aweeeeesssommmme !

The SprayMax 2K Clear aerosol is a fantastic product. I have used it on many projects.

SprayMax now has a new product. It is a base/clear/hardener in one Aerosol can. You supply the paint code, and they send you the can. I believe it is around $20/can, which isn't bad considering it is all in one.

Primer
SprayMax all in one
Wetsand/Buff
Done.

http://www.66autocolor.com/SprayMax_2K_Aerosol_Auto_Paint_p/spm-mix2k.htm

I used the Duplicolor Metalspecks Burnt Copper and SprayMax 2K. Only issue I had was around the fuel cap. But that was due to the gasket being pinched. Otherwise both are good products and that paint looks really good in sunlight.

Sorry, I just noticed that post for the SprayMax product was my first post.

It is not SPAM. I do not work for SprayMax. I am a normal dude. I promise. Ha.

Guess I should go post an intro.

ThreadJack over.

If it helps, this thread on BARF is pretty much the definitiive online resource for rattle can painting.

Quote from: burning1 on November 16, 2011, 10:55:02 AM
If it helps, this thread on BARF is pretty much the definitiive online resource for rattle can painting.

thank you 

read it all and bookmarked.