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Valve Pics

Started by Toogoofy317, November 22, 2011, 03:48:52 PM

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Toogoofy317

Can anyone get me a pic of what a good valve looks like. I have one that "looks" new while all the others have carbon deposits. I'm wondering if the black look means it is burnt  :dunno_black: I only have 50% compression of what my left side has.

Mary
2004 F, Fenderectomy, barends, gsxr-pegs, pro grip gel covers, 15th JT sprocket, stock decals gone,custom chain guard,GSXR integrated mirrors, flush mount signals, 150 rear tire,white rims, rebuilt top end, V&H Exhaust, Custom heel and chain guard (Adidasguy)

burning1

You ended up pulling the heads?

I've pulled a couple recently. Carbon deposits are normal, I wouldn't worry about em. If the heads are all the way off the bike, the better test is to make sure that all 4 valves are closed, and pour some liquid (2 stroke oil, wd40, etc) in the dome of the head to see if any leaks out.

If the head is still on the bike, a leakdown test is your best bet. Can pinpoint the source of any leakage.

Dizzledan

A less messy solution I learned from a mechanic friend, is to take a high powered light like a flashlight or worklight, and shine it into the intake/exhaust ports to check for leaks. If you see light, they're bent or stuck.

twocool

Quote from: Toogoofy317 on November 22, 2011, 03:48:52 PM
Can anyone get me a pic of what a good valve looks like. I have one that "looks" new while all the others have carbon deposits. I'm wondering if the black look means it is burnt  :dunno_black: I only have 50% compression of what my left side has.

Mary

Intake valves usually look "cleaner" and the exhausts look black-er....

A burnt valve doesn't mean burnt like toast...it really means "melted", as in the metal melts around the edge or even forms like a crack.....

Cookie



twocool

Google "Burnt Valve"  and hit "image"

You'll get lots of pictures of bad (burnt) valves.  Some "burn" differently than others.

Cookie



Toogoofy317

2004 F, Fenderectomy, barends, gsxr-pegs, pro grip gel covers, 15th JT sprocket, stock decals gone,custom chain guard,GSXR integrated mirrors, flush mount signals, 150 rear tire,white rims, rebuilt top end, V&H Exhaust, Custom heel and chain guard (Adidasguy)

Twisted

#7
The top right looks like it has damage.

ojstinson

The top right is burned through, no wonder you have no compression. Looks like somebody let their valve clearances get way too tight.
I'm not a racist, some of my best friends are you people.

twinrat

top right valve burnt out .its an exhaust valve because its smaller ,BUT thats not a gs500F  head they only have 2 valves  RIGHT????

ojstinson

#10
I think she just found a posted photo example somewhere of what her valves look like condition wise.
I'm not a racist, some of my best friends are you people.

twocool

Quote from: Toogoofy317 on November 22, 2011, 09:56:33 PM
See, mine looks like this:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd80/INSANEBA/head4.jpg
Mary

Your's "look like this"?  Or is this "yours?"   Picture shows 4 valve head.....I thought GS 500 had two valve head??

In this picture top right exhaust valve is burnt....(section missing at 2:00 position).

If your exhaust valve looks like this you need valve job!....

Cookie

Toogoofy317

The color looks similar no it is not my bike. Here are pictures of Flick.





Mary
2004 F, Fenderectomy, barends, gsxr-pegs, pro grip gel covers, 15th JT sprocket, stock decals gone,custom chain guard,GSXR integrated mirrors, flush mount signals, 150 rear tire,white rims, rebuilt top end, V&H Exhaust, Custom heel and chain guard (Adidasguy)

twinrat

#13
that exhaust valve has al lthe indications of having to little clearance alowwing the valve to be held open all the time it is not burnt as there is no cut or damage in one small area ,just carbon build up on seat and probably a few pits which i would expect to clean up if seat is cut with a seat cutting tool and then lapped in .If you are lucky you may lap it in ..
it also looks like you also have a bit of spark plug hole thread poking out ,put a spot of penitrating oil oil on it before you attempt to remove plug. while you have head off check all threads incase you have to helicoil them .The reason you had more carbon on that side is you had a slow burn because you didnt have full compression for so long..glad you have found your trouble after so long..

twocool

#14
Quote from: twinrat on November 29, 2011, 01:01:39 AM
that exhaust valve has al lthe indications of having to little clearance alowwing the valve to be held open all the time it is not burnt as there is no cut or damage in one small area ,just carbon build up on seat and probably a few pits which i would expect to clean up if seat is cut with a seat cutting tool and then lapped in .If you are lucky you may lap it in ..
it also looks like you also have a bit of spark plug hole thread poking out ,put a spot of penitrating oil oil on it before you attempt to remove plug. while you have head off check all threads incase you have to helicoil them .The reason you had more carbon on that side is you had a slow burn because you didnt have full compression for so long..glad you have found your trouble after so long..

I agree with what twinrat says above.

But now here's the problem, and decision time.

I would say that those heads need to be cleaned up, carbon removed, same for the valves.  And valve seats should be re-done.

Once I get an engine this far disassembled, I usually figure on replacing anything which is worn out, or near worn out....like valve guides, maybe the actual valves.....

At least you need to measure everything to see if it is within spec.

Here's the problem...the cost starts to go way up....

Back "in the day"...parts were relatively cheap, while labor was expensive.....so we always put in new parts, because it's not much more labor when the enigne is already apart, and you dont want to have to disassemble again and pay double labor....

But "today"  parts are expensive and labor is expensive...so you're kind of screwed!  My philosophy now is to only replace parts which are worn out beyond spec. and reuse all servicable parts. But it really depends on your pocketbook.  If you have the bucks...replace everything now.  If $$$ is tight, do the min to get by.

Are you doing all the work yourself, or do you have an "engine guy"???


Cookie







Toogoofy317

Well, yes and no on me doing it. My BF has been doing this stuff for years and he has the tools necessary.

One of the members on here has been nice enough to send me a good top end for the price of shipping. I'm a bit upset on the valve clearance thing being that this was supposed to have been taken care of in the maintainace package that I bought with Flick. If I had known that the only thing they were going to do was an oil change and not the maintainance they had promised. I can assure you I would have saved my almost $1000!

I will eventually clean and rebuild the top but I've got to get him going being that the car is down too!
Mary
2004 F, Fenderectomy, barends, gsxr-pegs, pro grip gel covers, 15th JT sprocket, stock decals gone,custom chain guard,GSXR integrated mirrors, flush mount signals, 150 rear tire,white rims, rebuilt top end, V&H Exhaust, Custom heel and chain guard (Adidasguy)

twocool

Quote from: Toogoofy317 on November 29, 2011, 11:45:36 AM
Well, yes and no on me doing it. My BF has been doing this stuff for years and he has the tools necessary.

One of the members on here has been nice enough to send me a good top end for the price of shipping. I'm a bit upset on the valve clearance thing being that this was supposed to have been taken care of in the maintainace package that I bought with Flick. If I had known that the only thing they were going to do was an oil change and not the maintainance they had promised. I can assure you I would have saved my almost $1000!

I will eventually clean and rebuild the top but I've got to get him going being that the car is down too!
Mary

Great...if you can simply swap out the head for a good one, you're back on the road fairly cheap and quickly.

When rebuilding a head...I usually do some of the work myself but send out the machine shop stuff.  It saves some $$$.

BTW...how many miles on this bike?  Did you buy it new? 

I don't trust dealerships to do all the work they are supposed to.  Checking the valve clearance is a PITA job and easy for the dealer to "just let go as is".

Cookie

Toogoofy317

I bought Flick with 5,000 miles and he now has 25,000 miles. Yes, I will never buy a maintenance package again because of this experience. I had taken Flick in every 3,000 miles religiously  but I still ended up with this. Lesson learned

Mary
2004 F, Fenderectomy, barends, gsxr-pegs, pro grip gel covers, 15th JT sprocket, stock decals gone,custom chain guard,GSXR integrated mirrors, flush mount signals, 150 rear tire,white rims, rebuilt top end, V&H Exhaust, Custom heel and chain guard (Adidasguy)

burning1

Most of the time, those packages don't make a lot of financial sense, unfortunately. :(

Toogoofy317

Well, at the time yeah it made sense. Flick is my first bike and I didn't have a lot of spare time still don't. I wanted the peace of mind of not having to worry about maintenance in my busy life. I knew he would be a work horse and my BF didn't have the time to do everything and teach me. But, yeah as of this point in my life. I can get my carbs out drained in 12 minutes re-install in 30 taking my time. So, your right a maintenance package wouldn't be worth it because I can do it in half the time that the shop can and save money. But, like I said a lesson learned.  :dunno_black: I started a new thread but can the head gasket be re-used?

Mary
2004 F, Fenderectomy, barends, gsxr-pegs, pro grip gel covers, 15th JT sprocket, stock decals gone,custom chain guard,GSXR integrated mirrors, flush mount signals, 150 rear tire,white rims, rebuilt top end, V&H Exhaust, Custom heel and chain guard (Adidasguy)

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