Not sure if this is going to work, hope this link opens this picture.  I have more of this machine I have been working on for the last year, and it is ready to rumble, big time.  If anyone wants to know more about my bike, please let me know and I'll post some data.


Gary 

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd347/guilfordin/th_100_0700.jpg?t=1321931179

I've got some high resolution pictures of my LSR bike, if anyone is interested in seeing them.  To the best of my knowledge, it is the most powerfull 500CC engine on planet earth, including the Yamaha YZR 500 cc, two stroke, V-4 rotary valved road racer.  That machine and all of its records that it holds at Bonneville, are headed for the archives, next August.  My GS 500 powered bike, is 304 pounds, a combination of high and old technology, that works.  Been playing with these small twins all my life, decided it was time to put the machine in the spotlight.
Originally built for drag racing, hence the aluminum frame, I decided to go for the IFM land speed record instead.  Donor engine is 1999, GS500.
Bottom end is all stock, including the factory ballance shaft, bearings etc.  No re-balance, stock rods etc.  Clutch is Barnett, Kevlar, transmission gears are all undercut.  Zipper, 7075-T6 outboard support bearing plate, gearing is 17-30, modified TL1000 rear wheel.  Cylinder, stock liner, with 1 mm overbore to 75, 499.6 cc.  Pistons are Ross blower design, with 9 mm deck thickness, compression ratio is 10:1.  Block deck is "O" ringed, and I run the stock .009 thick steel shim head gasket.  Turbo is Mitsubishy TO-5, from the 3000 GT twin turbo car, no modifications.  Fuel injection throttle bodies are from a Polaris 2 stroke snowmobile, 48 mm bore.  Primary injectors are RC Engineering 1200 cc per minute, and I made the modifications to install two additional secondary injectors which are triggered at pressure above 20 PSI.  Fuel is methanol,  no need for after coolers.  Performance Electronics (  http://www.pe-ltd.com/joomla/  ) builds the best ECM I have ever seen and has worked with me on this bike through many many hours on the Dynojet Super Flo machine.  The "EDGE" handles the fuel injection, timing, digital boost controller, etc., and has a two map capability, as well as full data logging.  I recommend it to anyone considering an upgrade to FI. 
Just what the limits are for this motor, have not yet been determined, but at the last test session, we had 140 HP at 20% throttle position. A quick shot to 40% shot up to 200+, but the boost was violent, we did not yet have the digital boost controller programmed so we terminated
the testing that evening.  Next week, we have the machine rented, and we are going to get the boost to rise in a linear path relating to the throttle position.  We've seen 30 PSI, but were unable to retrieve the data from the dyno, due to an issue with the dyno.  My target RPM is 11000 maximum, at 28 PSI, which should yield around 220 to 240 corrected SAE rear wheel BHP.   These numbers are all 10%lower than those from the standard inertial style dyno's that all the magazines use.  So you can add that 10% to our numbers to get a comparison.   The Super Flo is an eddy current style, and we can hold loads at any RPM.  What really impressed me on that 20% run, was that at 5000 RPM, the bike was making 80 RWHP, thats a lot of torque to get that number.
My email address is:  gcollins4@comcast.net if anyone wants to see some close up pictures or a copy of that last dyno run.  Next week, I'll be pushing the limits, to see what breaks and at what RPM.  I need to know this, so that when the bike heads for the salt, there willl be no surprises.  On paper, at 35 PSI, and 11,000 RPM I expect to see around 280 RWHP, but will probably be cleaning up the oil mess in the process. We've got video's of all the testing thus far, the next one will be you tube material. 

That stock bottom end will disintegrate at 1/3 of the power you're expecting to make. The crank can't even handle a handful of extra horses from too big a bore increase, let alone quadrupling it's intended load.

That's not to say that what you're trying to do is impossible, it'd just recommend sinking a bunch of $ into a crank and set of rods if you expect to even double the stock hp w/o ending up with a hole in the block.

Also, 500cc two-stroke motogp v4s made 200+ naturally aspirated CRANK hp (and that's crocked for the rulebooks).

That's a cool build you've got going there, and I sincerely wish you luck with it... but why'd you have to f%$k it up with such a douchey post about it? Post the pics, post the vids, we all go "hey, cool!" and that's about it.

Things like " If anyone wants to know more about my bike, please let me know and I'll post some data." and "To the best of my knowledge, it is the most powerfull 500CC engine on planet earth, including the Yamaha YZR 500 cc, two stroke, V-4 rotary valved road racer." just make you look like a duck.

Hasta la vista, Senor Crank  :  )

I for one would LOVE to see a youtube video of a GS500 based bike that pulled the type of HP you are talking about on a dyno without disintegrating

Looks like there are some on this forum on the attack.   There are no crankshaft issues with the GS500.  Just keep the revs below 11K and run straight 50 weight racing oil. That synthetic oil is just too thin. I've beat this engine to death on the dyno, making consistent 200 CORRECTED SAE RWHP.  I live in Cincinnati.  I am 66 years old.  I don't bullshit or make claims I can't back up. I have built turbo methanol bikes going back 40 years.  Current methanol funny bikes, are making 1000 HP +.  This week and next, I will be at Southern Ohio V-Twin in Cincinnati, for additional work on the digital boost controller. The operator of the dyno is the head mechanic at Harley Davidson of Cincinnati.  His name is Howard.  The owner of Southern Ohio V-Twin is Doug.  The owner of Performance Electronics is Jeff Krummen.  You can look them up on the internet and ask them about this little Zuki.
They have the new Super Dyno Flo machine, which reads 10% below the standard inertial dyno's.  I know what it has done so far, but on this next session, I will be bringing the catch pan and top end engine blast
plates, because I plan on pushing it to its breaking point.   I have pictures and videos from previous sessions.  The video files are too large to post.  For you non believers out there, I'd be glad to send you a DVD.  Just give me your address. 
And BTW, I did mention in that post that the previous horsepower king in the 500cc class was the Yamaha YZR500, two stroke V4 Rotary valve design.  Horsepower was REPORTED to be as high as 200, at the crank, not RWHP.  I've pulled more than that at the wheel and true SAE power. 

Early testing on my GS 500.  These runs were all at 20% throttle position and SAE corrected numbers.  Actual HP on standard dyno's that everyone uses read 10% higher or more.  This same session, we went over 140 (156 on dynojet ) many times.  I have video at 200 (220 on dynojet) at 40%.  Heres a link to one of the runs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=YzzpNypsviA

Picture is too small to make anything of.

Would be interested in some build info, especially info on the internals in that engine.

For better pictures use this link:

http://s530.photobucket.com/albums/dd347/guilfordin/

From last summer, two short video's fine tuning at 20% throttle, Part 1 and added a little fuel, Part 2

Part 1   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnTBsQ_AcBs

Part 2   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnTBsQ_AcBs

Hope this helps with the negative attacks ?

Gary

That is a pretty awesome bike you have there. What made you choose the GS for your platform? I would love to puck your brain on installing a starter nut and a few other things I'd like to do on my race bike.

I picked that engine, because I wanted to crack the existing world speed record for 500 cc machines, and wanted to go the most difficult route doing so.  I could easily have used the Honda VFR 500, a V-4, water cooled powerplant, that is very strong and also capable of high loading, or use any 600 cc sportbike and debore the engine to 500.  I DID NOT want to use any two stroke ex-factory road racer, which currently holds that record.  The Suzuki is actually well suited for power increase and durability.  Many here have spoken of crankshaft failures, which I think must have been due to lack of lubrication or over speeding the engine, or both.   I am totally against the use of synthetic oils in most applications, and in particular any air cooled powerplant.  Without the advantage of water cooling, you're going to really break down any low viscosity oil to the point where the separation of the journals to the babbit gets squished to tenths of a thousandth.  I know that you can pull more horsepower with thinner oils, due to thereduction of "pumping losses", but the benefits aren't worth the risks of premature failure.  I've been into motor building for 50 years, if I count my teens, and being from "old school" I've stuck with the higher viscosity racing lubricants. 
Keeping the revs in the 11K range, really reduces a lot of reciprocating failures also.  There is more power in RPM, for sure, but it puts a lot of stress on those parts.
Another reason I picked the GS500 is that it has four main bearings, and it is a matter of physics, that the more surface area you have to absorb that hammering, the less likely you are to have the bottom end take a crap.

Regarding you wanting to remote start that thing, I assume that you are wanting to lower your overall weight.  If its a race bike, shitcan the whole side cover, and have a shop make up a blank with a bored hole for the crankshaft snout and a seal retainer to hold the oil in.  This will narrow the bike considerably.  Getting rid of the stator, starter and stock battery alone will save you a ton.  In place of the stock battery spend the extra bucks and get a Shorai unit, they put out more, last longer, and weight ONE SEVENTH the weight of a lead acid battery.  I run two of them, one for the fuel injection pumps, which draws 16 amps maximum, 100 GPM at 100 PSI, cabable of 2500 hp.  It was the SMALLEST pump I could get that would handle methanol without damage.  Methanol is extremely corrosive.  The other battery runs my ECU.  With your GS, That battery should run for hours without a prolblem, the only draw, your ignition system.  Hope that helps. Thanks for the compliment, first one I got here !!

Gary

  I wouldnt have believed it till the pictures! That thing is unreal

Yeah, that's exactly the reason I was thinking of the starter nut. Good to know that the machine work isn't too expensive.

The GS engine has a lot more rotating weight than a lot of modern sport bikes. Looks like I could pull 5-10lbs of rotating weight off the crank alone by removing the charging system and balance shaft. Was thinking of setting up an external battery for the starting motor, but when I pulled it from one of my parts engines I realized it weighs a good bit it's self. Removing it also has the advantage that I can install an APE breather where it used to be, reducing some pumping losses.

Other advantage is that a replacement cover would be much sturdier than the stock cover, and less likely to open up in an impact. Oil containment during a crash is a pretty big issue.

I am planning to rev the bike to 13K RPM though. It's going to take some valvetrain work, and planning to go with aftermarket pistons and rods.

BTW... I appreciate you sticking it out here. Lot of people would be turned off by the negative mods. I have no doubt that with that kind of build it's possible to get some serious power from the GS500. Stock engine it's self is seriously stout; the stuff that's likely to blow under that kind of power is pretty seriously built on the GS compared to more modern bikes like the busa... Cylinders use thick liners, heads are tough.

It's easy to forget that the GS500 is pretty similar to the GS1000, a very popular drag bike.

Note to Burning1.  If you want to sing that GS to 13K, I would highly recommend the use of racing valve springs and titanium retainers.  The stock valves are fine, I'm using them on my race motor.  Forged pistons would be good insurance to avoid the stresses of increased piston speed.  You're not going to break those rods, Suzuki builds a good bottom end, always has.  Removing the balance shaft and epoxying the oil supply feed in the cases, will save on the overall weight of the engine, but you will suffer the consequences of horrible vibration through the whole machine, and cause major stress on the rotating assembly.  Any engine designed with a counter balancer, cannot be effectively rebalanced without it, unless you have someone build you a new forging. Also, that is not reciprocating mass, but rotational.  Increasing rotational mass, like the factory did when they designed the engine, will reduce spool up times, for sure.  But under steady state, your losses are almost nil. I'd leave it in place for rider comfort and reliability.  The vast majority of the weight on the GS is all that massive steel in the frame etc.  It's a great machine, I have two street versions, and they are a real kick.  For cheap thrills add a 50 horse shot of NOS.  Great power wheelies for showing off.

Gary

Fantastic work,  I've never seen a GS that highly modded before.   

Earl fittings, alright! some expensive hardware right there.

Are those headers coated?  Very cool,  I used to do that on DSM motors that had the turbo directly under the intake manifold.  Works very well.





Good luck and please keep us updated,  I'd love to see you break that land record!

guilfordin
Holy ShaZam that is one bad a#s bike. Do you ride that thing? If you do your b#al#s must be huge and need a sidecar or a dump truck to get around on. Really that is one wicked bike, do you have a video of that bad boy in action???

In january, I'll be heading to Gainsville Raceway in Florida for some drag strip tests.  The bike is currently set up for land speed racing, thats why the gearing is so tall, 17 counter, 30 rear. Don't need a 100 MPH first gear !  I have a new  P & M drag wheel/brake set-up that I'll use instead of the TL1000 in there now.
Gearing will be 17/42.  I have wheelie bars, which will be necessary with the 7" slick out back.  My power to weight ratio is pretty high, I expect a lot of wheel spin, but I am more interested in trap speeds than ET.  I would need a 9" tire to get good ET numbers.  Will post some video's of the outing.  Also, some video coming up soon on the lastest Dyno runs with the new digital boost controller and incremental pulls at 40, 60, 80  and full throttle positions.  The 140 HP number at 20% was impressive, and we did hit 200 at 40% before the dyno shut down for some reason, nothing to do with our machine.  Thanks for checking in. 
Gary