Okay guys! I just got myself an '07 GS500F with 17k miles. I have a few general questions regarding the bike!

Firstly...PO was putting Rotella-T synthetic in it. What weight in the Rotella-T is acceptable for this bike? Also...without poking the sleeping giant...is it okay to switch back and forth between synthetic and dino oil? I'd rather change my oil more often and spend less money.

Is the oil filter contained inside the cover directly below the dipstick?

Is the recommendation that the oil be checked with it on the sidestand or center stand?

It needs a new chain and fast! Can someone recommend a decent chain? I only know of D.I.D but those are a bit pricey.

Thanks!

15w-40 weight, conventional oil is fine for the bike (the engine design is from 1989).

No, the oil filter is located at the bottom front of the engine between the exhaust header pipes.  It has three 10mm nuts holding it on, be careful not to over tighten them because the studs will snap off in the engine.

Do not check oil on the side stand.  There is a debate on this forum whether to check it while holding the bike straight up and down or while it is on the center stand.  Do a forum search and pick whichever method floats your boat (I don't think it makes a huge difference)

I have no preference on chain brands, I'll leave that question someone else.  I just use whatever O-ring chain I find that is affordable.

Welcome to the GS club   

-Jessie

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on December 11, 2011, 08:53:18 PM
15w-40 weight, conventional oil is fine for the bike (the engine design is from 1989).

No, the oil filter is located at the bottom front of the engine between the exhaust header pipes.  It has three 10mm nuts holding it on, be careful not to over tighten them because the studs will snap off in the engine.

Do not check oil on the side stand.  There is a debate on this forum whether to check it while holding the bike straight up and down or while it is on the center stand.  Do a forum search and pick whichever method floats your boat (I don't think it makes a huge difference)

I have no preference on chain brands, I'll leave that question someone else.  I just use whatever O-ring chain I find that is affordable.

Welcome to the GS club   

-Jessie

Oh damn. I'll be careful with that then. So what weight Rotella-T should I be putting in it or should I not? I mean...I know tons of people swear by it. Guess it's like the debate about the oil checking.

I screwed up. I posted about the rotella oil on the gs500 with issues instead of here. in short don't do it, its diesel engine oil.

Quote from: Kijona on December 11, 2011, 08:56:47 PM
So what weight Rotella-T should I be putting in it or should I not? I mean...I know tons of people swear by it.

15w-40 weight. It's fine for all seasons. Change your oil and oil filter every 3000 miles, just like a car. If you rev your engine like crazy every time you ride, use fully synthetic. If you just putter around, use regular. You DO need to use motorcycle oil...here's why:

http://youtu.be/A2cx16Pq6iM?t=2m17s

Shell Rotella is made for diesel engines it say so right on the bottle not motorcycles, very different application. If you must use shell oil I am sure they make motorcycle oil. One of the big differences is the engine and transmission sharing the oil as well as the wet clutch.

Moto Guzzi and BMW are special cases with dry clutches and separate oil for the engine and transmission. I still don't see why you would use diesel engine oil. Personally I avoid Shell for a variety of reasons. Either way no matter what brand you choose you need to use the proper kind of lubricant.

It's safe to mix synthetic and conventional oils, and safe to switch back and forth. Only rule is that you need to treat the resulting mixture as if it was made of the weakest oil you added... E.g. your $50 synthetic fill needs to be treated as if it was a $3/quart fill as soon as you add the cheap stuff.

When you mix oil weights, you need to average out the resulting mixture.

Check the oil level with the bike level. Never check on the side stand. Checking on the center stand is fine, IMO. You can also check while straddling the bike between your legs and both wheels on the ground.

I know lots of people who run Rotella T in their bikes. It's a good oil for the price, but by no means the best stuff on the market. Plenty of other good oil available. Checking your oil often and changing it regularly is more important than anything else.

The GS500 burns oil. You should check your oil level every time you fill up your bike. Lots of people run the bike low, and by the time they realize the mistake the bike is on it's way to a total engine failure. If the bottom end starts ringing, it's too late.

What do you mean by ringing?

Sound of loose metal rapidly bouncing around the engine.

Oh good. I'm glad. Mine doesn't have that. Mine was about 12oz low on oil when I got it.

All I can add is this:
"It has three 10mm nuts holding it on, be careful not to over tighten them because the studs will snap off in the engine."

There have been too many threads on here about fixing this problem. They are small studs and need very little torque (check the manual). The seal is made by the big O-ring around the housing, so you don't need much pressure on the sealing surface.









By the way, go easy on the filter cover nuts.

Rotella-T conventional oil does carry the JASO-MA approval for motocycle engines. I'm using it. Many others are, too, and not just us idiots on gstwins.

Quote from: Kijona on December 11, 2011, 08:36:02 PM
Okay guys! I just got myself an '07 GS500F with 17k miles. I have a few general questions regarding the bike!

Firstly...PO was putting Rotella-T synthetic in it. What weight in the Rotella-T is acceptable for this bike? Also...without poking the sleeping giant...is it okay to switch back and forth between synthetic and dino oil? I'd rather change my oil more often and spend less money.

Is the oil filter contained inside the cover directly below the dipstick?

Is the recommendation that the oil be checked with it on the sidestand or center stand?

It needs a new chain and fast! Can someone recommend a decent chain? I only know of D.I.D but those are a bit pricey.

Thanks!

IMHO the best chain is Regina......My bike came with Regina as OEM....have 20,000 miles and the chain has barely "stretched" at all.....only had to adjust drop outs like one turn at most.....

I clean with kerosene, and lube with Honda chain lube...religiously every 500 miles...

New regina chain for GS 500 is about $100 so not cheap...

Cookie

PS
Back in the day....bicycle racing...Regina was THE chain.......

Quote from: agave248 on December 11, 2011, 10:56:58 PM
Shell Rotella is made for diesel engines it say so right on the bottle not motorcycles, very different application. If you must use shell oil I am sure they make motorcycle oil. One of the big differences is the engine and transmission sharing the oil as well as the wet clutch.

Moto Guzzi and BMW are special cases with dry clutches and separate oil for the engine and transmission. I still don't see why you would use diesel engine oil. Personally I avoid Shell for a variety of reasons. Either way no matter what brand you choose you need to use the proper kind of lubricant.

Lots of deisel farm equipment has wet cluthes; Rotella, Delo etc.  work fine.  I use cheapo Walmart Supertech in almost everything I own with no problems.  Some people will tell you any oil that doesn't say "Energy Conserving" on the rating seal is ok, I don't know enough to make that claim though.

-Jessie

I have a new question: Is it normal for the engine to spool all the way to 5k when the choke is engaged fully in 40°F. weather? This is with the bike being stone cold.

Also, I'm just gonna put some Castrol 10w-40 in it...the motorcycle oil. It's $15 for a 4L jug and I've been using it in all my other stuff.

Quote from: Kijona on December 12, 2011, 02:54:49 PM
I have a new question: Is it normal for the engine to spool all the way to 5k when the choke is engaged fully in 40°F. weather? This is with the bike being stone cold.

Also, I'm just gonna put some Castrol 10w-40 in it...the motorcycle oil. It's $15 for a 4L jug and I've been using it in all my other stuff.

Idk about right away going to 5k RPM I know when my bike WAS working correctly, when It was warmed up all the way it would hang around 5k rpm at the highest, started around 3.5k all the way up to 5k RPM.

Oh my God you brought up the dreaded checking the oil question. That's like shaking the hornets nest.

Quote from: ghostrider_23 on December 12, 2011, 03:00:59 PM
Oh my God you brought up the dreaded checking the oil question. That's like shaking the hornets nest.

Hey, I didn't know. I'm gonna check it on the center stand and to hell with what anybody else says.

Quote from: J_Walker on December 12, 2011, 02:58:04 PM

Quote from: Kijona on December 12, 2011, 02:54:49 PM
I have a new question: Is it normal for the engine to spool all the way to 5k when the choke is engaged fully in 40°F. weather? This is with the bike being stone cold.

Also, I'm just gonna put some Castrol 10w-40 in it...the motorcycle oil. It's $15 for a 4L jug and I've been using it in all my other stuff.

Idk about right away going to 5k RPM I know when my bike WAS working correctly, when It was warmed up all the way it would hang around 5k rpm at the highest, started around 3.5k all the way up to 5k RPM.

I mean it's like...I just barely have to touch the starter button and it IMMEDIATELY fires up and will reach 4-5.5k RPM within a few seconds and hang there. If I try to give it...say...half choke it really gets irritated and will fluctuate a lot from idle speed up to 3-4k and then back down and almost stall out.

I'll make a video tomorrow so you guys can see what I'm talking about.