I've been having to constantly re-adjust the clutch-release adjuster screw located under that little plate on the left side of my 2008f. Abotu 100 miles after adjusting, gear-shifting starts getting difficult again, so that I have to adjust it again. 3 times the locknut has actually fallen off the part it screws onto, so that the nut just falls right out when I open the plate. I've tried using mild threadlock to keep it in place, but the area is too hot so it just melts the stuff. I'm wondering if I should try using the stronger "red" threadlock, but don't know if that might create issues in the future, in case I want to readjust or something and it's completely stuck. Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas for a fix? Is threadlock red the way to go, or should I try something else?

I have the same problem, But IVE REPLACED MINE! I always put it on there as tight as possible... It seems to come lose a lot. Anyway thats what Twins do..

I had the same problem on my race bike. Nothing like being 6 laps into a race and having no clutch. Easy fix was to tighten with a pair of pliers.  I eventually installed a clutch perch from a GSX-R 600, which has a better retainment system, and doesn't suffer from this problem.

I wonder if a locking washer or some thread tape might help?

Quote from: burning1 on December 14, 2011, 08:01:07 PM
I eventually installed a clutch perch from a GSX-R 600,

Op was talking about the pushrod adjuster on left side of gearbox.

Yep, I meant the pushrod adjuster. Thread tape sounds like it might work, I think I'll give that a try before the high-temp threadlock. I don't know if a washer would work though, as there's no extra room on the part that the nut screws onto. At least on my GS, the nut doesn't even go all the way onto the screw because it doesn't stick out far enough. Anyway I'll try some teflon tape and get back on how that works.

Dont waste your time with thread tape its made for sealing pipes and has teflon to help screw it up tight .water pipes dont vibrate .IF your nut is not on the thread far enough you need to grind enough off the push rod so it does .and use red loctite or green loctite on thread,But only put it on the last 2 outer threads of the nut ,then it takes only 2 revolutions to remove.you can also pour boiling water over nut to loosen loctite.LOCTITE ONLY IN THE NUT NOT ON THREADED SHAFT..

Ahhh... A dab of silicone may do the trick. If that doesn't work, my normal method is to safety wire the damn thing... But a lot of stuff on my bike is safety wired, so it's not such a big deal.

There must be a reason why the nut keeps coming loose, howabout suggesting the O/P adopts some good engineering practice and attempts to find the cause of the problem and alleviates it at source rather than falling back on `kludges`

Get the thing apart, clean it and check it for damage/wear and go from there. Pay particular attention to the threads on the rod and in the nut.

Quote from: twinrat on December 16, 2011, 12:25:14 AM
IF your nut is not on the thread far enough you need to grind enough off the push rod so it does .and use red loctite or green loctite on thread,But only put it on the last 2 outer threads of the nut ,then it takes only 2 revolutions to remove.

So is the nut supposed to screw all the way onto the threaded part? On mine the part only sticks out far enough for the nut to go on halfway or so. How does grinding down the push rod work? I don't remember seeing anything about that in Haynes.

Anyone? Is the pushrod adjuster supposed to come out far enough for the locknut to screw all the way on? Mine only goes on halfway. Is there a part I can replace or modify to fix this issue? I'd rather not have to stop every 100 miles to readjust the clutch on an upcoming road trip, so any tips would be appreciated.

Post a picture if possible... I'm having a hard time making heads or tails of your question.

my adjuster has 2 nuts on it and a couple of threads still showing.I mentioned grinding pushrod as some one may have in the past not replaced the pushrod with OEM parts ,maybe used silver steel and hardend the ends , your worm drive may be very worn((i think thats what its called)) as somebody else mentioned here .

either someone damaged the nut or the screw portion of the threads. it shouldn't need anything more than a regular tightening with a wrench to lock the adjuster screw in place.

red loctite ? no way, i wouldn't do that on a clutch adjustment. find the cause. red loctite is for things you don't want to ever ever ever move until they're worn out.

unless you're towing small cars up san francisco's hills, there isn't much need for clutch adjustment but when the cable stretches or is near breaking point. if/when it starts to need monthly adjustment, order a new cable. you'll love the feel of it, instead of the POP just before a ride. 

Quote from: remn on December 19, 2011, 05:41:50 PM
Anyone? Is the pushrod adjuster supposed to come out far enough for the locknut to screw all the way on? Mine only goes on halfway. Is there a part I can replace or modify to fix this issue? I'd rather not have to stop every 100 miles to readjust the clutch on an upcoming road trip, so any tips would be appreciated.

The locknut should go on all the way with plenty of screw left over so something is wrong there.  Could be the cable was not relaxed far enough for the lever it actuates inside the houding to return completely or possibly the clutch plates are completely worn out, I doubt that on a 08 GS but it's possible when acquiring a used bike.

First make sure the clutch cable has been turned into the engine housing far enough to be loose with the lever it pulls on all the way returned and make sure the thumbwheel adjustment up at the clutch lever is screwed in all the way before adjusting the pushrod adjustment screw.  If you're not sure take off the front sprocket housing and check it, it only takes a couple minutes.

I put 80k miles on my 97 GS after adjusting that screw when I first got the bike and didn't need to adjust it again and I have 91k miles on my 02 GS and have only adjusted it once in all those miles. Should not be necessary to adjust the push rod screw more than once or twice during the life of the bike unless your very hard on clutches.

Thanks for all the helpful replies. I've checked the play on the clutch lever, and it's within spec. The clutch releases completely and the lever can move around a few millimeters when released. I'll also check the things you mentioned, GSJack. If it's not the cable play, maybe it is a worn clutch plate. Even though it's an '08, I bought it with 10,000 miles on it and I know the PO rode it hard, took it to the tracks, etc. The chain was completely thrashed and I had to replace it, which normally wouldn't be the case after 10000 miles. So maybe the clutch needs a rebuild.

Twinrat--could you say a bit more about how to grind the pushrod, any possible problems this might create? I'm thinking my choices might be between replacing the clutch plates and grinding the pushrod, and the latter would be cheaper since I have a dremel. Then again, if the plates are worn, it would probably be a good idea to replace them, and they're not that expensive anyway.

as a last resort grind your pushrods  after you have checked  everything else .Would be very supprised if your clutch is worn out even if its been raced  and thrashed.More damage is done to your pushrod and clutch if you sit at lights with your clutch held in. iIhave had no need to interfere wih my clutch . before you grind your pushrod check if PO hadnt previously removed clutch release mechanism and reinstalled it 180 degrees or 360 degrees out  it should have 2 screws holding it in . im clutching at straws here in suggestions and could be way off the markwith out actually seing it .PUSHRODS these are normaly hardened on ends so grind small amounts off about 1/8 " to start . if you  go through the hardening it will have to be hardened again ,do a hard ness test with a file see if ends are harder than say the middle .i think these clutches have 2 rods any way. if you take to much off you can always harden them again and slide a ball bearing of the same size in between them ,did this on norton and triumph clutch rods in the 1960s

Thanks twinrat, I'll try your suggestions and post back. I took some pics that show how the locknut hangs off the end of the screw:





As I read up on working on the clutch, it looks like more than I'll have time for before my trip. So I'm hoping I'll be able to find an easy fix, even if temporary. Someone recommended using a little silicon. As long as that would withstand the engine temps, it sounds like it might work to keep the nut in place. I agree that it's not the plates though, since I haven't been having any gear-shifting/slipping issues. Maybe the PO did some work on it and screwed something up, who knows 

YIKES! The PO must have done something...that is all kind of wrong 

Pull the case and take a look at the push rod, maybe the PO put the wrong one in (short)? You should have threads above the nut.

Or maybe you have an extra clutch plate added (PO)?