Quote from: numus on December 29, 2011, 12:41:03 PM
Shonole check the RH coil wire.... Trace it back to above the starter solenoid and desolder the additional wire on that. That is the electronic Tach.. It should not be causing a massive voltage drop to the RH coil to cause a problem (but it may be).
Trust me.. for the price I sold the bike at, it is worth well more than that in parts alone...

Simply unplug the tach wires at the tach. No need to cut the wire (unless the wire is worn and shorting)

Though it obviously is not the original tach as a 1996 had a mechanical tach. So maybe the replacement tach is loading down the right side so you have a weak spark? Weak signal from the ignition control unit due to the replacement tach?

I unplugged it while I was working on the plugs, and it didn't have any effect.  I'm think that maybe it just wasn't getting fuel, as the float bowl on the right cylinder was WAY off from the left, and the spring on the right float valve was missing.  I've order replacements, so hopefully that will help.

I'm also replacing all of the fuel lines, and will be sure to add a drain hose onto the gas tank.  I'm also going to toss a chain in with some kerosene (maybe diesel) in the tank to clean it out.

Thanks for the heads-up on the brake switch, I'll be sure to check it.

Quote from: numus on December 29, 2011, 12:41:03 PM

Quote from: mister on December 26, 2011, 06:23:17 PM

Quote from: numus on December 26, 2011, 01:43:11 PM
Sold the GS this morning! Thanks for the attempted help (i passed it along to the new owner). Hopefully He has the time to take care of PITA that i didn't have anymore

Does the new owner know of this problem - or - did you hide it from them so we will end up seeing them here asking about it, then watch them get all annoyed when they discover you were here first and knowingly sold them the bike without mentioning this problem?

Michael

I would never do that to someone (because i would hope no one would ever do that to me)...
Trust me.. for the price I sold the bike at, it is worth well more than that in parts alone...

So the owner had enough info to make an informed decision. Good One, numus   

Michael

Okay, ordered new float needles and seats, and bought a spare set of carbs.  The carbs in PITA (we'll keep the name!) were ROUGH.  The new set looked much, much better, minus one of the float needles being stuck.  Put the bike back together, put the petcock on prime, waited a few minutes, and checked the floats for fuel.  Nothing.  Not a drop.  So I worked my way back up, and realized it wasn't getting fuel.  I believe the fuel tank petcock may be shot.  It was working great before, but maybe turning it on and off so many times damaged it?  Any way to test it?  I have the tank off currently, and the petcock open.  When it's open, fuel will come out of the reserve side, but not the primary.  Is it completely shot?

Edit:

I took the fuel tank petcock off, and it appeared to be functioning properly.  (I assume when it's open, it's only open about halfway on each side?  Can this be verified?)  I blew threw it and didn't have any problems.  However, after I put the petcock in, and tipped the tank over, I was only getting fuel flowing from the reserve side.  The tank doesn't have a ton of fuel in it (as I just put the carbs back together), is it possible that it just doesn't have enough gas to flow through the primary?

Update:  Okay, added more fuel, didn't resolve the issue.  If you flip the tank over, with the petcock open, shouldn't gas flow from both the reserve and the primary hose?

Quote from: Kijona on December 25, 2011, 03:19:40 PM
The fuel I'm not so sure about unless you're getting excessive backfiring inside the carb intake.

And if you are getting backfiring at the carb intake? I think this might be happening for me. Backfiring's occuring sometimes at random points during the cold start procedure (goes away once warm, but is replaced by low idle and occasional stalling at lights), and it doesn't sound like it's happening at the pipe (don't have enough experience to say with 100% certainty, to be honest, but it sounds like it's coming from below me, not behind me).

I have reason to believe I'm running rich* - is this consistent with what you'd diagnose if carb backfiring is occuring?

* I bought Buddha jets for a bike w/stock filter and exhaust (132.5 main and 20 pilot), and had a mechanic install them but he didn't drill/adjust the air mixture screws, so I think I'm probably not getting enough air. I'm going to do this myself once there're a few inches of snow on the ground.

Okay, I've got the bike running again, but it's idling at about 6000rpm.  The idle screw is adjusted all the way out, and the choke is off.  If I pull the choke, it only increases rpms.  I won't run it more than a few seconds, because I don't want to strain the motor.  Any ideas?  I know to check for vacuum leaks, but with the idle this high already, I don't want to do any (more) damage.

Update:

I cut it on and sprayed WD40 at all of the gaskets, with no change in idle speed.  Of course, it is idling at 6k+, so I don't know if the wd40 would even make a difference. 

Edit:

I also realized that I tightened the throttle cable too tight.  After loosening it, idle dropped to around 4500k with no choke.  There is white smoke coming from the exhaust, and if you give it any throttle it hangs for a second or two.  The rpms are now dancing every minute or so between 3500 and 4500.

Any ideas?  I've tried searching to forum, and haven't found an answer yet.  Could the mixture screws be an issue?  It has a K&N drop in (from previous owner), and when I replaced the carb, I kept the jets from the replacement carb (they looked marginally smaller in diameter, but the opening appeared the same) because they looked a little better.  Could this be causing my idle issue?  It revs well, and doesn't seem to bogging anywhere.

Friday update:

The bike is still idling at around 4000rpm.  I guess I'm going to strip the carbs down again and see if it helps any.  As of right now, it's still only running on one cylinder.  I haven't unplugged the tach yet, but I will be giving that a shot in the morning.  I may even take a video an upload it, as if you unplug the left plug and try to start that bike, you can hear it wanting to start.  I find it hard to believe that the same carb was messed up on both sets of carbs, but I guess anything is possible.  I got new plugs, so I will be gapping them and trying that in the morning.  Will update with progress.

Quote from: shonole on January 12, 2012, 10:48:51 PM
Friday update:

The bike is still idling at around 4000rpm.  I guess I'm going to strip the carbs down again and see if it helps any.  As of right now, it's still only running on one cylinder.  I haven't unplugged the tach yet, but I will be giving that a shot in the morning.  I may even take a video an upload it, as if you unplug the left plug and try to start that bike, you can hear it wanting to start.  I find it hard to believe that the same carb was messed up on both sets of carbs, but I guess anything is possible.  I got new plugs, so I will be gapping them and trying that in the morning.  Will update with progress.

http://www.gs500e.co.uk/wire.jpg
If my memory is worth a damn, I tapped the black and yellow wire for the tach.. Look for continuity across that wire from the coil to the CDI. Also check to make sure the entire wires insulation is in tact or atleast wrapped... If it is grounding out it will cause a massive voltage drop to the coil...

Honestly until you are able to sort out the RH coil issue I wouldn't trust what the tach is reading at because it is based upon the voltage of that wire and obviously there is something wrong with the RH side of the ignition system.

As for the white smoke you noticed... Atleast 2 things come to mind. If you are storing it outside than it is moisture in the exhaust system and will clear up once the bike and exhaust warms up. It can also be burning carbon. I winterized with seafoam so there might be still some in the cylinder or the carbon deposits loosened and are now burning out.

Do you remember where you spliced them at?  I'm having a difficult time locating it.

Okay, so this morning, when I first started the bike, it was running on both cylinders.  Cut it off a few minutes later, and restarted, only running on one.  I swapped the coils, and tried to start the bike on the right (non-firing) cylinder with the coil from the left.  It started, but would not run without throttle.  This only lasted for a few seconds, and then it would no longer fire.  Still showing good spark.  The coil from the right side functioned properly on the left.  So I'm definitely chasing a gremlin on the right side of the bike.  Any more ideas?

Quote from: shonole on January 13, 2012, 10:48:23 AM
Do you remember where you spliced them at?  I'm having a difficult time locating it.

Okay, so this morning, when I first started the bike, it was running on both cylinders.  Cut it off a few minutes later, and restarted, only running on one.  I swapped the coils, and tried to start the bike on the right (non-firing) cylinder with the coil from the left.  It started, but would not run without throttle.  This only lasted for a few seconds, and then it would no longer fire.  Still showing good spark.  The coil from the right side functioned properly on the left.  So I'm definitely chasing a gremlin on the right side of the bike.  Any more ideas?

Was spliced under the right side fairing near the solenoid... Should be a red wire I believe.

Could be a clogged fuel or air valve or one that is sticking...

Quote from: numus on January 13, 2012, 01:59:00 PM

Quote from: shonole on January 13, 2012, 10:48:23 AM
Do you remember where you spliced them at?  I'm having a difficult time locating it.

Okay, so this morning, when I first started the bike, it was running on both cylinders.  Cut it off a few minutes later, and restarted, only running on one.  I swapped the coils, and tried to start the bike on the right (non-firing) cylinder with the coil from the left.  It started, but would not run without throttle.  This only lasted for a few seconds, and then it would no longer fire.  Still showing good spark.  The coil from the right side functioned properly on the left.  So I'm definitely chasing a gremlin on the right side of the bike.  Any more ideas?

Was spliced under the right side fairing near the solenoid... Should be a red wire I believe.

Could be a clogged fuel or air valve or one that is sticking...

Killed the tach and it made no difference.  So I hooked it back up.  Getting spark, but it's still only running on one cylinder.  The curious part is that it did run on both cylinders temporarily when I first started it.  I'll strip the carbs down again this weekend and see if that make a difference.

Oh, I also replaced both spark plugs.  The plug on the right (non-firing) cylinder was fouled by dry carbon.

Could those cause fast idle?  The tach seems to be correct, and you definitely tell it is idling way too high.

My biggest issue right now is that it is idling almost dead on 4000 rpm.  I've done the WD40 test, numerous times with no change in rpm, so does that completely rule out vacuum leaks?  I'll go buy some starter fluid tomorrow and use that instead. 

I'm really struggling with this right now, and could use some ideas.  Maybe someone close to the Thomasville, GA area that's willing to spend an afternoon helping me figure it out? 

Okay, tonight I adjusted the idle air screw on the cylinder that is firing, and if I close it completely, the bike will idle at around 2000rpm. 

Also, the bike will rev freely (they do hang a bit) but will not rev past 5000rpm or so when under load.

Quote from: shonole on January 13, 2012, 03:24:34 PM

Quote from: numus on January 13, 2012, 01:59:00 PM

Quote from: shonole on January 13, 2012, 10:48:23 AM
Do you remember where you spliced them at?  I'm having a difficult time locating it.

Okay, so this morning, when I first started the bike, it was running on both cylinders.  Cut it off a few minutes later, and restarted, only running on one.  I swapped the coils, and tried to start the bike on the right (non-firing) cylinder with the coil from the left.  It started, but would not run without throttle.  This only lasted for a few seconds, and then it would no longer fire.  Still showing good spark.  The coil from the right side functioned properly on the left.  So I'm definitely chasing a gremlin on the right side of the bike.  Any more ideas?

Was spliced under the right side fairing near the solenoid... Should be a red wire I believe.

Could be a clogged fuel or air valve or one that is sticking...

Killed the tach and it made no difference.  So I hooked it back up.  Getting spark, but it's still only running on one cylinder.  The curious part is that it did run on both cylinders temporarily when I first started it.  I'll strip the carbs down again this weekend and see if that make a difference.

Oh, I also replaced both spark plugs.  The plug on the right (non-firing) cylinder was fouled by dry carbon.

Could those cause fast idle?  The tach seems to be correct, and you definitely tell it is idling way too high.

My biggest issue right now is that it is idling almost dead on 4000 rpm.  I've done the WD40 test, numerous times with no change in rpm, so does that completely rule out vacuum leaks?  I'll go buy some starter fluid tomorrow and use that instead. 

I'm really struggling with this right now, and could use some ideas.  Maybe someone close to the Thomasville, GA area that's willing to spend an afternoon helping me figure it out? 

Okay, tonight I adjusted the idle air screw on the cylinder that is firing, and if I close it completely, the bike will idle at around 2000rpm. 

Also, the bike will rev freely (they do hang a bit) but will not rev past 5000rpm or so when under load.

You try removing the choke cable for the time being... maybe it is not releasing all the way (constantly choking the engine when you think it is off)?!?

Quote from: numus on January 13, 2012, 09:44:25 PM

Quote from: shonole on January 13, 2012, 03:24:34 PM

Quote from: numus on January 13, 2012, 01:59:00 PM

Quote from: shonole on January 13, 2012, 10:48:23 AM
Do you remember where you spliced them at?  I'm having a difficult time locating it.

Okay, so this morning, when I first started the bike, it was running on both cylinders.  Cut it off a few minutes later, and restarted, only running on one.  I swapped the coils, and tried to start the bike on the right (non-firing) cylinder with the coil from the left.  It started, but would not run without throttle.  This only lasted for a few seconds, and then it would no longer fire.  Still showing good spark.  The coil from the right side functioned properly on the left.  So I'm definitely chasing a gremlin on the right side of the bike.  Any more ideas?

Was spliced under the right side fairing near the solenoid... Should be a red wire I believe.

Could be a clogged fuel or air valve or one that is sticking...

Killed the tach and it made no difference.  So I hooked it back up.  Getting spark, but it's still only running on one cylinder.  The curious part is that it did run on both cylinders temporarily when I first started it.  I'll strip the carbs down again this weekend and see if that make a difference.

Oh, I also replaced both spark plugs.  The plug on the right (non-firing) cylinder was fouled by dry carbon.

Could those cause fast idle?  The tach seems to be correct, and you definitely tell it is idling way too high.

My biggest issue right now is that it is idling almost dead on 4000 rpm.  I've done the WD40 test, numerous times with no change in rpm, so does that completely rule out vacuum leaks?  I'll go buy some starter fluid tomorrow and use that instead. 

I'm really struggling with this right now, and could use some ideas.  Maybe someone close to the Thomasville, GA area that's willing to spend an afternoon helping me figure it out? 

Okay, tonight I adjusted the idle air screw on the cylinder that is firing, and if I close it completely, the bike will idle at around 2000rpm. 

Also, the bike will rev freely (they do hang a bit) but will not rev past 5000rpm or so when under load.

You try removing the choke cable for the time being... maybe it is not releasing all the way (constantly choking the engine when you think it is off)?!?

I hadn't.  I've pulled and played with it, and it seems to be releasing, but I'll try taking it off tomorrow anyway.  Did it used to require choke to start?  Because it fires up now with no choke at all. 

Edit: When cold this morning, it required about mid choke for a few seconds, but then ran okay without it.  I also believe I've found the cause of my high idle.  I got some starter fluid to do the vacuum leak test, and immediately found a leak at the boot between the engine and the carbs.  Any good source of these?  I've seen some on ebay (used) that are crazy expensive.

Took the carbs apart again today, cleaned them well, adjusted the floats (right was a little off), put a little RTV on the carb boot (hoping it would help the vacuum leak), fired it up and it still acted the same.  If anything, it was a bit worse. 

Recap of the symptoms, please help:

Idling around 4k RPM.  (Even with idle adjustment all the way out, AND idle air screw completely closed)
Vacuum leak around the carb to manifold boot (attempted to temporarily fix with RTV)
Running on one cylinder.
When running, pours white smoke.

Also, when I took the carbs apart, I noticed that it has 134 main jets, do I need to change back to the 122.5s?  It currently has a K&N drop in.

Please help!  I'm at a complete loss. 

Mods, thank you for changing the title, but can you update it with the new issues, as I no longer have the oil/fuel in the airbox issue.  Thanks!

Quote from: shonole on January 15, 2012, 02:17:39 PM
Took the carbs apart again today, cleaned them well, adjusted the floats (right was a little off), put a little RTV on the carb boot (hoping it would help the vacuum leak), fired it up and it still acted the same.  If anything, it was a bit worse. 

Recap of the symptoms, please help:

Idling around 4k RPM.  (Even with idle adjustment all the way out, AND idle air screw completely closed)
Vacuum leak around the carb to manifold boot (attempted to temporarily fix with RTV)
Running on one cylinder.
When running, pours white smoke.

Also, when I took the carbs apart, I noticed that it has 134 main jets, do I need to change back to the 122.5s?  It currently has a K&N drop in.

Please help!  I'm at a complete loss. 

Mods, thank you for changing the title, but can you update it with the new issues, as I no longer have the oil/fuel in the airbox issue.  Thanks!

Just a thought...but have you replaced the little o-rings between the diaphragm caps and the face of the carb? Also...do yourself a favor, if you haven't already, and get replacement boots for the carbs.

Something else you might consider is smearing a little RTV (hope you're using the high-temp kind) around the connections on those little brass tubes (what're they called?) that protrude from the sides of the carbs...just in case it's leaking there.

As far as the mains...someone correct me if I'm wrong, but those seem awful big.

Edit: If it is leaking from those tubes, give the RTV time to dry before cranking it, as it might suck some into the carb which isn't gonna help anything.

Quote from: Kijona on January 15, 2012, 03:28:19 PM

Quote from: shonole on January 15, 2012, 02:17:39 PM
Took the carbs apart again today, cleaned them well, adjusted the floats (right was a little off), put a little RTV on the carb boot (hoping it would help the vacuum leak), fired it up and it still acted the same.  If anything, it was a bit worse. 

Recap of the symptoms, please help:

Idling around 4k RPM.  (Even with idle adjustment all the way out, AND idle air screw completely closed)
Vacuum leak around the carb to manifold boot (attempted to temporarily fix with RTV)
Running on one cylinder.
When running, pours white smoke.

Also, when I took the carbs apart, I noticed that it has 134 main jets, do I need to change back to the 122.5s?  It currently has a K&N drop in.

Please help!  I'm at a complete loss. 

Mods, thank you for changing the title, but can you update it with the new issues, as I no longer have the oil/fuel in the airbox issue.  Thanks!

Just a thought...but have you replaced the little o-rings between the diaphragm caps and the face of the carb? Also...do yourself a favor, if you haven't already, and get replacement boots for the carbs.

Something else you might consider is smearing a little RTV (hope you're using the high-temp kind) around the connections on those little brass tubes (what're they called?) that protrude from the sides of the carbs...just in case it's leaking there.

I have.  Replaced them with some that were a little thicker, but the same diameter (best I could find at Lowe's).

I'm hunting for replacements boots now, hoping I can get some from adidasguy.

I'll definitely try smearing some RTV (it is the high-temp kind) there and see how it does.  I'm really thinking (HOPING) that replacing the boots will solve the high idle issue.  Then, at least, I'll only have to resolve the running on one cylinder issue.

Okay, so after some research, it turns out the new (used) carbs I bought have a dynojet kit.  134 mains, and very thin needles.  I kept these when I installed the carbs.  Do I need to swap back?  Will this help my situation at all?

Quote from: shonole on January 15, 2012, 03:38:38 PM

Quote from: Kijona on January 15, 2012, 03:28:19 PM

Quote from: shonole on January 15, 2012, 02:17:39 PM
Took the carbs apart again today, cleaned them well, adjusted the floats (right was a little off), put a little RTV on the carb boot (hoping it would help the vacuum leak), fired it up and it still acted the same.  If anything, it was a bit worse. 

Recap of the symptoms, please help:

Idling around 4k RPM.  (Even with idle adjustment all the way out, AND idle air screw completely closed)
Vacuum leak around the carb to manifold boot (attempted to temporarily fix with RTV)
Running on one cylinder.
When running, pours white smoke.

Also, when I took the carbs apart, I noticed that it has 134 main jets, do I need to change back to the 122.5s?  It currently has a K&N drop in.

Please help!  I'm at a complete loss. 

Mods, thank you for changing the title, but can you update it with the new issues, as I no longer have the oil/fuel in the airbox issue.  Thanks!

Just a thought...but have you replaced the little o-rings between the diaphragm caps and the face of the carb? Also...do yourself a favor, if you haven't already, and get replacement boots for the carbs.

Something else you might consider is smearing a little RTV (hope you're using the high-temp kind) around the connections on those little brass tubes (what're they called?) that protrude from the sides of the carbs...just in case it's leaking there.

I have.  Replaced them with some that were a little thicker, but the same diameter (best I could find at Lowe's).

I'm hunting for replacements boots now, hoping I can get some from adidasguy.

I'll definitely try smearing some RTV (it is the high-temp kind) there and see how it does.  I'm really thinking (HOPING) that replacing the boots will solve the high idle issue.  Then, at least, I'll only have to resolve the running on one cylinder issue.

Okay, so after some research, it turns out the new (used) carbs I bought have a dynojet kit.  134 mains, and very thin needles.  I kept these when I installed the carbs.  Do I need to swap back?  Will this help my situation at all?

Well, the mains/needles do not affect idle. I don't know if I'd go messing around with the mains now since it has modified needles. Check your pilot jet sizes. Take apart an old lamp cord or RCA cable and remove a single strand of copper wire and run it through the pilot jet if you haven't already.

PM me your address and I'll mail you some o-rings. Those ones from Lowes are liable not to be gasoline resistant. I got a whole selection of different sizes that are nitrile.

Quote from: Kijona on January 15, 2012, 07:52:32 PM

Quote from: shonole on January 15, 2012, 03:38:38 PM

Quote from: Kijona on January 15, 2012, 03:28:19 PM

Quote from: shonole on January 15, 2012, 02:17:39 PM
Took the carbs apart again today, cleaned them well, adjusted the floats (right was a little off), put a little RTV on the carb boot (hoping it would help the vacuum leak), fired it up and it still acted the same.  If anything, it was a bit worse. 

Recap of the symptoms, please help:

Idling around 4k RPM.  (Even with idle adjustment all the way out, AND idle air screw completely closed)
Vacuum leak around the carb to manifold boot (attempted to temporarily fix with RTV)
Running on one cylinder.
When running, pours white smoke.

Also, when I took the carbs apart, I noticed that it has 134 main jets, do I need to change back to the 122.5s?  It currently has a K&N drop in.

Please help!  I'm at a complete loss. 

Mods, thank you for changing the title, but can you update it with the new issues, as I no longer have the oil/fuel in the airbox issue.  Thanks!

Just a thought...but have you replaced the little o-rings between the diaphragm caps and the face of the carb? Also...do yourself a favor, if you haven't already, and get replacement boots for the carbs.

Something else you might consider is smearing a little RTV (hope you're using the high-temp kind) around the connections on those little brass tubes (what're they called?) that protrude from the sides of the carbs...just in case it's leaking there.

I have.  Replaced them with some that were a little thicker, but the same diameter (best I could find at Lowe's).

I'm hunting for replacements boots now, hoping I can get some from adidasguy.

I'll definitely try smearing some RTV (it is the high-temp kind) there and see how it does.  I'm really thinking (HOPING) that replacing the boots will solve the high idle issue.  Then, at least, I'll only have to resolve the running on one cylinder issue.

Okay, so after some research, it turns out the new (used) carbs I bought have a dynojet kit.  134 mains, and very thin needles.  I kept these when I installed the carbs.  Do I need to swap back?  Will this help my situation at all?

Well, the mains/needles do not affect idle. I don't know if I'd go messing around with the mains now since it has modified needles. Check your pilot jet sizes. Take apart an old lamp cord or RCA cable and remove a single strand of copper wire and run it through the pilot jet if you haven't already.

PM me your address and I'll mail you some o-rings. Those ones from Lowes are liable not to be gasoline resistant. I got a whole selection of different sizes that are nitrile.

Seriously?  You're awesome.   

I went to check them the yesterday, and they were tight, so I'm going to try again tomorrow.  I was worried about stripping them.

I actually have another set of (stock) needles, so I could just swap those over if the jets need to be pulled.

On a side note, I'm a member of a number of forums, and among them all, I've never been welcomed more openly, or assisted more freely than I have here.  My hats off to all of you.   

Quote from: shonole on January 15, 2012, 11:45:28 PM

Quote from: Kijona on January 15, 2012, 07:52:32 PM

Quote from: shonole on January 15, 2012, 03:38:38 PM

Quote from: Kijona on January 15, 2012, 03:28:19 PM

Quote from: shonole on January 15, 2012, 02:17:39 PM
Took the carbs apart again today, cleaned them well, adjusted the floats (right was a little off), put a little RTV on the carb boot (hoping it would help the vacuum leak), fired it up and it still acted the same.  If anything, it was a bit worse. 

Recap of the symptoms, please help:

Idling around 4k RPM.  (Even with idle adjustment all the way out, AND idle air screw completely closed)
Vacuum leak around the carb to manifold boot (attempted to temporarily fix with RTV)
Running on one cylinder.
When running, pours white smoke.

Also, when I took the carbs apart, I noticed that it has 134 main jets, do I need to change back to the 122.5s?  It currently has a K&N drop in.

Please help!  I'm at a complete loss. 

Mods, thank you for changing the title, but can you update it with the new issues, as I no longer have the oil/fuel in the airbox issue.  Thanks!

Just a thought...but have you replaced the little o-rings between the diaphragm caps and the face of the carb? Also...do yourself a favor, if you haven't already, and get replacement boots for the carbs.

Something else you might consider is smearing a little RTV (hope you're using the high-temp kind) around the connections on those little brass tubes (what're they called?) that protrude from the sides of the carbs...just in case it's leaking there.

I have.  Replaced them with some that were a little thicker, but the same diameter (best I could find at Lowe's).

I'm hunting for replacements boots now, hoping I can get some from adidasguy.

I'll definitely try smearing some RTV (it is the high-temp kind) there and see how it does.  I'm really thinking (HOPING) that replacing the boots will solve the high idle issue.  Then, at least, I'll only have to resolve the running on one cylinder issue.

Okay, so after some research, it turns out the new (used) carbs I bought have a dynojet kit.  134 mains, and very thin needles.  I kept these when I installed the carbs.  Do I need to swap back?  Will this help my situation at all?

Well, the mains/needles do not affect idle. I don't know if I'd go messing around with the mains now since it has modified needles. Check your pilot jet sizes. Take apart an old lamp cord or RCA cable and remove a single strand of copper wire and run it through the pilot jet if you haven't already.

PM me your address and I'll mail you some o-rings. Those ones from Lowes are liable not to be gasoline resistant. I got a whole selection of different sizes that are nitrile.

Seriously?  You're awesome.   

I went to check them the yesterday, and they were tight, so I'm going to try again tomorrow.  I was worried about stripping them.

I actually have another set of (stock) needles, so I could just swap those over if the jets need to be pulled.

On a side note, I'm a member of a number of forums, and among them all, I've never been welcomed more openly, or assisted more freely than I have here.  My hats off to all of you.   

Wait wait wait...

What were you worried about stripping out?? Be careful! Tell us first...I wasn't telling you to tighten anything I don't...think?

The pilot jets.  Lol.  I've run guitar string through them to clean them out, because they were a bit stuck, and I didn't want to screw them up by twisting too hard.  It would be nice if I could get them out, just so I can see what size they are.