Been giving the bike a good workout since it's been running so well and have noticed an intermittent slippage problem. I generally don't use the clutch on upshifts unless I'm riding casually. A few times on aggressive runs I'll blip the throttle, kick the gear, and it slips. I get that telltale rev without full power to the wheel, then it slips in and pulls hard like it should. Seems to be mostly on the 3-4 and 4-5 upshift, but it doesn't do it every time. I'm still running the original clutch with 25,000 hard ridden miles on it, so I'm assuming that's the issue...even though I'm not engaging the clutch when it slips. Plates worn out? Any other potential problems to look for? Recommendations on the clutch replacement? Thanks people.

Nobody's replaced a clutch lately?!! EBC good?

I tried to replace mine two weeks ago because of a wierd inconsistante grabbing problem. Turns out the previous owner had replaced the springs with stiffer spring from some other bike. That would probably be fine if they acctually fit correctly over the little "bushings". Basically the spring were all cocked off all crazy inside the basket. Not to mention they were about an inch shorter then normal springs. I got the replacement clutch on ebay and am not sure what brand it is but I will sell the plates I bought for a decent price. I didn't use them because the plate i had in teh bike were still way in spec. I also reused the old gasket, and have one of those for sale together with the plates.

I have to get some webspace up so i can start posting some pics in the for sale forum.

EBC makes great products.  You could also use Barrett springs.  I replaced my stock springs on my Laverda with EBC race springs and other than the extra effort to pull the clutch in, I've been really happy with 'em...  

That's the irritating thing about the clutch.  You really don't notice when it's working great, but when it starts to go, then you notice...




Rolly

Thanks guys. It is irritating as hell. Just got the bike running right too...and I'm getting ready for the track day. Figures the clutch decides to let go a few weeks after I wire the damn thing up for the track! Oh well. You think it's worth swapping the springs while I'm in there?

Briggs...what do you want for those parts? I need em shipped to 23701. Thanks.

yeah for the extra 15-20 bucks....it's good to replace the springs also

I'm running a Barnett clutch for a SV650 in my bike. The springs are shorter and stiffer, but are the same length compressed. It works great!

Quote from: Bob BroussardI'm running a Barnett clutch for a SV650 in my bike. The springs are shorter and stiffer, but are the same length compressed. It works great!

Is it a perfect fit? No 'issues' with installing this clutch?

  D.

how hard is it to install a clutch on our bikes?  Mine is a 90 with 15K miles and I seem to have a little slippage until the bike warms up, is this normal?  Seem to be fine one up to temp.

Anecdotal evidence from racers in my region suggest that the Barnett clutch for the GS is less than ideal. Stock friction plates are pretty good. The Barnett springs are better than stock, tho'.

Clutch replacement is easy. Remove the left side crankcase cover and the clutch is right in front of you. Simple unbolt, replace, bolt procedure.

Just be mindful that you got all of the cover bolts out before trying to pop the cover off. Have a new gasket handy as the OEM gasket likes to tear easily. Soak the new friction plates in oil for a few hours before installing.

The left side cover holds oil, so either drain oil or lean the bike over to prevent oil from spooging everywhere.

Thanks for the info...So how do you know if the clutch is slipping?

Quote from: merchjoThanks for the info...So how do you know if the clutch is slipping?

You'll feel it, but the most obvious sign is the motor making a bunch of noise without transmitting all the power to the wheel. Mine is fine at low speed, but it slips if I jump on the throttle...which is no good for track day.

And thanks for the recommendations...I'd better get to work.

The Barnett clutch for the SV650 fits great. No mods needed.
The stock clutch plates work fine too. I just happened to be at a shop that specializes in SVs. It cost me just $105.00 for the complete kit with springs and plates. But that was pobably a racers deal from the owner.

The stock clutch seems to make it easier to find nuetral at a stop. But then the oil I use affects that too.

I just lean my bikes against something so I don't need to drain the oil.
You have to remove the ignition rotor and plate. There are 2 screws under the plate. The rest are on the outer edge of the case. After the case is off, all you need is a 10m socket to remove the clutch springs and all the plates.
After the new plates are in, you only need to snug the bolts down. The torque spec is pretty small. So just tightening them by hand is plenty good.
There is constant spring tension on them so they won't come loose.

If the old clutch slips at all, under acceleration or when cold. It's a sign it's getting time to replace it. But the first step is checking the adjustments on the cable and accuater on the side case. It could just be needing and adjustment. If that doesn't work, replace the plates.       :mrgreen:

Thanks Bob....were do you guys suggest buying a new clutch?  I looked on ronayers.com but the list each disc seperate and dont offer a complete kit.  Is the dealer the only place?

I looked in the Lockhart Phillips catalog and they show clutch plates for the SV. But it says call for pricing.
All you need are the friction plates. The metal plates are re-usable unless you fry them so bad they warp. even the stock springs are fine for almost all riders.
Try Bikebandit or other sources and compare prices first.