My carb/gas tank troubleshoot took a back seat because I decided to repaint the whole bike. At first I was going to just do the tank and plastics, but after I powder coated the tank and placed on top of the frame, it became obvious that the frame just wouldn't do the way it is.

So, I set out and dissassembled the whole darn thing. Frame is ready to be washed up, sanded, and powder coated.

My question: The bearing races look good. Is it really necessary to remove them for the powder coating? The answer I'd like to hear is "No need to remove them", but I'm ready to follow your advice anyway.

Thanks

Funny how these things start eh,....

Quote from: vasama on January 20, 2012, 10:10:58 AM
My carb/gas tank troubleshoot took a back seat because I decided to repaint the whole bike. At first I was going to just do the tank and plastics, but after I powder coated the tank and placed on top of the frame, it became obvious that the frame just wouldn't do the way it is.

So, I set out and dissassembled the whole darn thing. Frame is ready to be washed up, sanded, and powder coated.

My question: The bearing races look good. Is it really necessary to remove them for the powder coating? The answer I'd like to hear is "No need to remove them", but I'm ready to follow your advice anyway.

Thanks

I don't see why you couldn't stuff a rag or something in them while applying the paint and then remove the rag while you bake it. I'm not really sure why you would need to remove them one way or another, though, unless you were concerned about getting paint in them? Even if you did, you could simply wipe it out before the baking process.

To powder coat, they have silicone plugs for screw holes and other orifices.
They also have high temp tape to protect things.
You do not have to remove the bearings or other things as long as they can withstand 400* F for curing the powder.
I bought a small powder coat setup, read the book and have not used it yet.

Better safe than sorry. I'd remove them.

If there is any grease trapped between the race and the frame it will bleed out during the baking process and ruin the finish. I had this happen and was lucky enough to have the powder coater redo it at his expense.





.

Quote from: fleshpiston on January 20, 2012, 01:01:21 PM
Better safe than sorry. I'd remove them.

If there is any grease trapped between the race and the frame it will bleed out during the baking process and ruin the finish. I had this happen and was lucky enough to have the powder coater redo it at his expense.

Alternatively, you could heat the area with a heatgun and see if any comes out and then spray it with degreaser. You could also take it to your local high-pressure self-car-wash place and spray a lot of water up in there to get it out.

I'm not SURE if that will work but it might.

I have done it with the bearing races in. If you cover it (yea the plugs and tape they got works good - and dont get the blasting material in it will be fine. After getting ti cack from the coaters you can clean it out and regrease it.
Cool.
Buddha.

Cool, everybody. I'll cover them and do the process. Should have everything painted by Sunday (...)

I say use aluminum foil.. Last time a checked, You can use it at 400F as long as it doesn't come in contact with direct flame.. I could be wrong. but I'm cheap...

Can anyone tell me how to free the spring from the rear shock, please? I already have the whole shock assembly down. I'd like to remove the spring to powder coat it, but a regular car spring compressor is too big for it. I'm hoping someone has done it and I can get some advice...?
Thanks

Here you go:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41239.0

Not a GS500 shock but...almost the same.

they also have some shock spring compressors over at racetech

http://www.racetech.com/page/id/70

@Kijona

Thanks  bunch. That link is simply awesome!!!

Will follow that procedure.

Bike's coming along... Slowly, but some progress daily... pics soon...

I powdercoated my frame and swingarm with the needle bearings in, I used a couple of washers some all thread rod and a couple of nuts to cover the bearing holes and it all turned out great. They even had to bake off the old powdercoat then blast then the new coat.

Quote from: vasama on January 26, 2012, 08:52:50 AM
@Kijona

Thanks  bunch. That link is simply awesome!!!

Will follow that procedure.

Bike's coming along... Slowly, but some progress daily... pics soon...

If I were you...I'd find the biggest turn buckle things you can, with the smallest thread pitch, and HOPEFULLY in stainless steel. Stainless steel will be the strongest and hardest of any of the metals you're likely to find them in. I'd use all stainless steel if you can. That's just me, though. I'd be terrified of the thing breaking and sending bits of metal everywhere. Also, if you don't damage them, maybe you can return them? LOL

Heed his warning about lubing the threads and take it slow.

Ended up having a local shop take it apart for 10 bucks 
Bad thing was that I took it to a different place yesterday to be reassembled, because I wasn't going to be close to the original place. First off, they charged 25 (swallowed the ripoff because of time constraints). But they absolutely butchered the powder coat. I'll live with what they did, though. Not much I can do unless I repeat the process and eat the 35 bucks already spent.
Question: Could anyone please look at their rear shock and tell me which end of the spring is supposed to go where? I mean, it looks like it has an end that is slightly smaller in diameter than the other, and I'd like to make sure that mine was assembled properly.

Thanks.