This weekend I was checking my valve clearances, and I got to a conflicting sources of information.
One is the Kerry's Burton video (BTW excellent video, the one that gave me courage to do it, http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2015554469142545363) which he says to turn the cam lobes pointing away from the shim surface, in a 180 angle degree between the point of the cam lobe and the shim surface.
The other one is the Service Manual, and this page: http://gstwin.com/adjust_valves.htm, from Marc Malagelada, which states that the cam should by set by the "R-T" mark in the pulse generator & the marks on the camshaft.

The difference is that with the first method my valves aren't in spec but in the 2nd method they are in spec, being the left exaust valve the tighter ( 0.03mm ).

Which one of the methods is the right one?

Regards,


EDIT: 3mm to 0.03mm correction

Cool, that is one thing I have wanted to check but forgot when Adfalchius' engine was open.  I would trust the Suzuki manual which is the way I've always done it but I don't think running the valves a little looser will cause a problem.  What was the actual difference in measurement?

-Jessie

i went by the haynes manual and don't have any problems that i know of

Quote from: piresito on January 24, 2012, 08:52:40 AM
This weekend I was checking my valve clearances, and I got to a conflicting sources of information.
One is the Kerry's Burton video (BTW excellent video, the one that gave me courage to do it, http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2015554469142545363) which he says to turn the cam lobes pointing away from the shim surface, in a 180 angle degree between the point of the cam lobe and the shim surface.
The other one is the Service Manual, and this page: http://gstwin.com/adjust_valves.htm, from Marc Malagelada, which states that the cam should by set by the "R-T" mark in the pulse generator & the marks on the camshaft.

The difference is that with the first method my valves aren't in spec but in the 2nd method they are in spec, being the left exaust valve the tighter ( 3mm ).

Which one of the methods is the right one?

Regards,

My manual (Suzuki Service Manual - not Clymer, Haynes, etc.) states that the correct way is the latter one you mentioned: by aligning the R-T marks and marks on cams. Not that his way isn't also acceptable.

Otherwise, the video is grand and really helps you because it starts from the very basics and assumes you know nothing about the bike. Perfect for beginners.

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on January 24, 2012, 09:11:14 AM
Cool, that is one thing I have wanted to check but forgot when Adfalchius' engine was open.  I would trust the Suzuki manual which is the way I've always done it but I don't think running the valves a little looser will cause a problem.  What was the actual difference in measurement?

-Jessie

Ooops...I think I was dumb enough to write the new values over the old ones... 
I remembered that with the Kerry method, in the exaust valves, I could only freely slide the 0.02 blade in the right one, and in the left the 0.02 wouldn't fit, maybe if forced it would.
With the pulse generator R-T mark alignament, I could slide the 0.04 blade in the right exaust valve and the 0.03 in the left one.
The values of the intake valves are greater with both methods, but I don't remember them exactly and I don't have the sketch with me right now. Later I will post it... 

Quote from: Kijona on January 24, 2012, 09:25:33 AM

My manual (Suzuki Service Manual - not Clymer, Haynes, etc.) states that the correct way is the latter one you mentioned: by aligning the R-T marks and marks on cams. Not that his way isn't also acceptable.

Otherwise, the video is grand and really helps you because it starts from the very basics and assumes you know nothing about the bike. Perfect for beginners.

Its easier that it looks, I was afraid because my mechanic experience is zero, but then I though, in the worst case scenario, the way from the garage to the bike shop is declined so I don't neet the engine to get it there...too bad I didn't get my hands on it earlier.

I think for begginers like me the best method is a mixture of the two. The first one teaches how to disassemble everything, and with the second one after all you don't have to remove the shims out of the bucket...  lol just kidding... I agree. without the video I simply wouldn't have the courage to do it.

Kerry's method of setting them 180 out was the method in the manual, you can do 3 valves @ 1 setting and then turn the motor over for the other valve.
However it should hardly mattter, I have done an eyeball, turn till the valve you are looking @ has the cam lobe pointing somewhere above the head and you are good. In bikes that have valves that open faster than they close, it is important where you check it, but a GS isn't one of those bikes.

Cool.
Buddha.

When I get a chance I will edit together the parts of the top end rebuild video that deal with the valves to show the Suzuki manual method.

-Jessie

Quote from: The Buddha on January 24, 2012, 09:42:56 AM
Kerry's method of setting them 180 out was the method in the manual, you can do 3 valves @ 1 setting and then turn the motor over for the other valve.
However it should hardly mattter, I have done an eyeball, turn till the valve you are looking @ has the cam lobe pointing somewhere above the head and you are good. In bikes that have valves that open faster than they close, it is important where you check it, but a GS isn't one of those bikes.

Cool.
Buddha.

? It was the method in the manual? Can you explain it? I don't understand, as the manual I have (Haynes) says to align it by the pulse generator...

Forget the pulse generator, I dont even open that cover.
I put it in gear and sping the back wheel. You do it any way you like. Take out the spark plugs and turn the back wheel.
1 valve at  a time is fine as is the 3 with the cams facing horizontal.
Cool.
Buddha.

What he said! ^^   

It does make a difference which I discovered on my first GS500 valve check which was about 22 GS500 valve checks and 13 years ago.  Do it right by using the timing marks when checking valves.  Not knocking Kerry, setting the cam lobe directly away from the valve/shim was the way I did it for decades on both cars and bikes until I encountered my first GS500.

Also, intake valve clearances rarely change for the life of the engine but exhaust valves clearances get smaller and tight exhaust valves don't last as long.  If you want long valve life set your exhaust valves a bit looser.  My specs:

.001-.003" (.03-.08 mm) Intake
.003-.005" (.08-.13 mm) Exhaust

Here's the complete record of my valve check/shim change experiences:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GSvalvelogs.jpg

On my 97 GS I set to Suzuki specs and one exhaust valve ran a long time on the tight side of Suzi specs and after many shim changes it was down to a minimum 2.15 mm thickness shim before 80k miles.  On my current 02 GS when an exhaust valve started the same pattern around 40k miles I went to my larger setting and it looks like it will go to 100k miles still using mid size shims, got 91k miles on it now!

That is a good argument for running it looser side of the spec. Not neccesarily the R|T method of the timing marks.
Valves shed heat by radiating it into the head, so a valve that stays on the seat for longer will run cooler. As will a bike jetted a smidgen richer, but the essential thing is that you get it n the loose side of the spec. In fact yamaha on the maxim (essentially the same valve types as the GS) recomends 5-7 thou on the exhaust and 3-5 thou on the intake, not 1-3 like the GS. Of course a 8 valve motor is likely to be less clack clack clack cos there is just so much more valve train noise that will drown it out.
Cool.
Buddha.

I don't own a manual and have used Kerry's video twice. That video is a GS life saver. Before adjusting my valves the motor sounded like a paint shaker and was getting harder and harder to start. Now after increasing both intake and exhaust clearances it starts MUCH easier and the knocking is (mostly) gone. I don't know if Kerry's video is the most accurate method but it gave me the courage to wrench on the bike and I bet the motor will last longer than if I had ignored it.

Just edited together the relevant footage from Adfalchius' top end rebuild to show the method using the timing marks.  My computer is slow to render video, I'll have it on youtube tomorrow.

To Jack:  Do you happen to remember how much of a difference there is between the 2 measurement methods?  I'm assuming Kerry's way is slightly looser.

-Jessie

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on January 24, 2012, 08:06:47 PM
Just edited together the relevant footage from Adfalchius' top end rebuild to show the method using the timing marks.  My computer is slow to render video, I'll have it on youtube tomorrow.

To Jack:  Do you happen to remember how much of a difference there is between the 2 measurement methods?  I'm assuming Kerry's way is slightly looser.

-Jessie

I'm not Jack, but from my experience, even not having the writen data, I found that with Kerrys way was tighter in the exaust valves, but not in the intake. As I don't remember very well the measurements, but at least in one intake valve had more clearance using Kerrys method. The other one I don't remember if the measurement was the same or looser also.

The video is now online.  It is edited together out of the footage from the top end rebuild so some of the commentary may not make sense.  And I hope BeerGarage doesn't mind that I used one of his photos   

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4vRm9xADa8

-Jessie

My bike just hit 4000 miles. I'd like to check the valve clearance and do an adjustment if needed. Could someone give me a list of the tools i need to carry this out (don't have a lot of tools as this is my first bike)? Or, it is easier to just pay someone to do it?

This will be my first time touching the engine. I'll try to follow Kerry's video and the manual.

Not doing it right away as it's too cold, but this will give me time to find the stuff i need.

Thanks.
Dre

Basic metric socket set to remove the tank and breather, 6mm allen key or socket to remove the cylinder head cover, 18mm deep socket to remove the spark plugs and a feeler gauge to check the valve clearance.  If you find you have an incorrect clearance you will need a valve shim tool and a proper sized replacement shim.  You will also need a new cylinder head gasket if yours is brittle (doubt it at 4,000 miles) and a small tube of RTV.  It is not a hard job, do it yourself and save some money   

-Jessie