Thanks Jessie. What brand and spec feeler guage do you use? Is there a shim tool specific to the 500F, or anyone can apply?

a little research will go a long way Dre.. check out the gstwins wiki page on checking valve clearances:

Checking your GS Valves - WIKI

Feeler gauges:

Quote from: WikiRemember that you need a metric feeler gauge, preferably with the thinnest blade of 0.03mm.

and you will need a specific suzuki shim tool:
https://www.denniskirk.com/28270.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse

Thanks Steezin. Forgot we had the Wiki. Answered all my questions. 

no worries mang

that wiki is chock full of solid info!

Quote from: piresito on January 25, 2012, 04:08:58 AM

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on January 24, 2012, 08:06:47 PM
Just edited together the relevant footage from Adfalchius' top end rebuild to show the method using the timing marks.  My computer is slow to render video, I'll have it on youtube tomorrow.

To Jack:  Do you happen to remember how much of a difference there is between the 2 measurement methods?  I'm assuming Kerry's way is slightly looser.

-Jessie

I'm not Jack, but from my experience, even not having the writen data, I found that with Kerrys way was tighter in the exaust valves, but not in the intake. As I don't remember very well the measurements, but at least in one intake valve had more clearance using Kerrys method. The other one I don't remember if the measurement was the same or looser also.

I agree Jessie, it was only about .001" differance, the value measured with the cam lobe full away from the valve was tighter than it was with the crank on the timing marks.  When I first read piresito's post #4 above it sounded about right to me, .001"=approx .025mm, I still think in inches, old dog/new trick thing I guess.   

What does it mean if your bucket doesn't move? LOL they didn't say in Jessie video, my front left doesn't move. that's why I'm curious.

Quote from: The Buddha on January 24, 2012, 10:10:51 AM
Forget the pulse generator, I dont even open that cover.
I put it in gear and sping the back wheel. You do it any way you like. Take out the spark plugs and turn the back wheel.
1 valve at  a time is fine as is the 3 with the cams facing horizontal.
Cool.
Buddha.

i've checked in 3 positions before: just after valve release, middle of cam stroke, and just before cam /valve engagement. there is little to no difference, on good wearing cams. if the cams are shaZam!/shot/wearing poorly, you'll see loads of difference via the three spots.


it's a really really simple process. follow kerry's video, it's one of the best.

Quote from: J_Walker on January 25, 2012, 04:50:58 PM
What does it mean if your bucket doesn't move? LOL they didn't say in Jessie video, my front left doesn't move. that's why I'm curious.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that means a valve is stuck open (no clearance).  You probably have no compression on that cylinder and may have burnt the valve if you have been riding it like that.  Tombstone recently bought a new exhaust valve but didn't use it (replaced head), if you find yours is burnt you may be able to buy his   

-Jessie

Quote from: ohgood on January 25, 2012, 06:12:34 PM

Quote from: The Buddha on January 24, 2012, 10:10:51 AM
Forget the pulse generator, I dont even open that cover.
I put it in gear and sping the back wheel. You do it any way you like. Take out the spark plugs and turn the back wheel.
1 valve at  a time is fine as is the 3 with the cams facing horizontal.
Cool.
Buddha.

i've checked in 3 positions before: just after valve release, middle of cam stroke, and just before cam /valve engagement. there is little to no difference, on good wearing cams. if the cams are shaZam!/shot/wearing poorly, you'll see loads of difference via the three spots.


it's a really really simple process. follow kerry's video, it's one of the best.

You could also just turn the back wheel to align the notches on the cam with the head I guess.

-Jessie

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on January 25, 2012, 06:32:46 PM

Quote from: J_Walker on January 25, 2012, 04:50:58 PM
What does it mean if your bucket doesn't move? LOL they didn't say in Jessie video, my front left doesn't move. that's why I'm curious.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that means a valve is stuck open (no clearance).  You probably have no compression on that cylinder and may have burnt the valve if you have been riding it like that.  Tombstone recently bought a new exhaust valve but didn't use it (replaced head), if you find yours is burnt you may be able to buy his   

-Jessie

YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! well.. looks like tomorrow I'm draining my oil, and taking my engine out.. again.. yay....

got any videos on replacing a valve? Lol

The top end can be rebuilt without draining the oil and without removing the engine from the frame.  However, if you have the space and inclination, it might be more convenient!

Quote from: Paulcet on January 25, 2012, 09:30:10 PM
The top end can be rebuilt without draining the oil and without removing the engine from the frame.  However, if you have the space and inclination, it might be more convenient!

I have 3 days to figure and fix this, well. not 3 but I only have a garage to park my bike in to get it fixed before it has to go back outside.. I have to drain the oil to put new oil filter/o-ring anyway. might just take the engine out anyhow. only crappy part is I'm waiting for a paint to dry so I can get my paycheck...

still have no idea how to get the valve rods out. - TAKE ALL THE ENGINE APART! - forgets to put piston back in - "fffffuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu!! - lol < true story.

The top end videos goes over the entire process.  A couple of questions before you tear the engine apart: When you checked the left exhaust valve did you rotate the engine so the cam notches faced away from each other?  If yes, you still may not have burnt the valve.  First replace the shim and do a compression test.  If the compression test with the new shim is normal there is no need to disassemble the engine.

-Jessie

Edit:  That video does not cover lapping a valve which you will have to do if you replace yours (providing the valve seat isn't damaged)

And how about removing a shim without a shim tool?

Would the pre-load shock adjustment tool do it?




I've heard about trimming a allen key but I can't see how it can work...anyone used it?

No that won't work but a couple of screwdrivers will:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/ValveShimTools.jpg

Nice, so this means that I insert the screwdriver there and then rotate the cranckshaft in order for the bucket+shim go up. Then the shim will pop out because this tool holds the bucket down while the shim+bucket tries to go up? I'm not going to scratch the cranckshaft with this method?

No don't rotate the camshaft while changing the shim, just make sure the cam lobe is pointed away from the shim and turn the bucket so the little notch for shim removal is pointed towards you so you can pick the shim out.  After depressing the bucket/shim with one screwdriver the other with a blade about 1/4" wide is placed on the very edge of the bucket outside of the shim so the shim can be removed and then remove the first screwdriver out of the way while you change the shim.  After the shim is changed just pull out the screwdriver holding the bucket down.  Crankshaft should be rotated a couple turns after the shim is changed to make sure all the oil is squeezed out and the shim is fully seated before rechecking the gap.

Woooowww, very nice indeed! Thank you for your patience! My GS500 soon will be running like a "evil machine"! 

I unbolted the 8 bolts on top holding down the thingy with the rod/chain lmao don't know the name atm.. and the valve bowl moves freely with out pressure ontop, so i'll go buy shims and adjust.

Quote from: J_Walker on January 26, 2012, 01:57:40 PM
I unbolted the 8 bolts on top holding down the thingy with the rod/chain lmao don't know the name atm.. and the valve bowl moves freely with out pressure ontop, so i'll go buy shims and adjust.

Thats the way he recommends here: http://gstwin.com/adjust_valves.htm
Altough thats too hardcore for me, I will stick to the screwdriver method... For now I don't want to mess with the camshaft & camshaft chain!
Maybe Monday I will get around the bike again, she rests for the weekend! lol