So I'm attempting to reinstall my cams. only problem is, on my exhaust camshaft there is no 3 with an arrow? is the install the same for a 2005 model? or am I missing something, everything is written for earlier models and "Assumed" it applies for the later ones.

Never was a 3 with arrow on the exhaust cam sprocket, the 3 is on the intake cam.  There are 1 with arrow and 2 with arrow marks on the exhaust cam sprocket.  You align the 1 arrow with the top cylinder block finish with the chain tight from the crank sprocket to the exhaust sprocket.  Then starting with the 2 arrow you count 18 pins to the 3 arrow on the intake sprocket.  Crank on R-T mark for all of this.

Quote from: gsJack on January 30, 2012, 01:44:31 PM
Never was a 3 with arrow on the exhaust cam sprocket, the 3 is on the intake cam.  There are 1 with arrow and 2 with arrow marks on the exhaust cam sprocket.  You align the 1 arrow with the top cylinder block finish with the chain tight from the crank sprocket to the exhaust sprocket.  Then starting with the 2 arrow you count 18 pins to the 3 arrow on the intake sprocket.  Crank on R-T mark for all of this.

I thought the 1 with the arrow was suppose to point to the front of the engine? the problem with that is, if it does, the cam itself on the left side wants to be strait down??! ontop of the valve, Da hell?

Does this help?

I did that, lol. I made a video. Don't worry it isn't like my past ones.. I cut most of the random talking out... give me like 10 mins for it to be on youtube and ready to watch. showing what I have done/what im talking about. basically its my whole question in video form with visual aid.

10 mins.

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjfM-WYOpog

You've got it lined up correctly.  When the timing marks are lined up, the left exhaust valve is open (that's why you have to rotate the cams 180 degrees to check the gap).  Install the cam caps and tighten them bit by bit so it keeps pressure even on both sides of the cap and the cam will push the valve open.  Be careful you don't let the chain slip (jump timing).

-Jessie

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on January 30, 2012, 04:12:48 PM
You've got it lined up correctly.  When the timing marks are lined up, the left exhaust valve is open (that's why you have to rotate the cams 180 degrees to check the gap).  Install the cam caps and tighten them bit by bit so it keeps pressure even on both sides of the cap and the cam will push the valve open.  Be careful you don't let the chain slip (jump timing).

-Jessie

I figured this out after I posted the video.. Have my bike together, Now it wont start Anyone wanna buy a half working GS500?

Can't stand this no more. I haven't been able to ride in like forever, and ride without problems in months! this is bull! I PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER RIGHT EVEN RECHECKED EVERYTHING.. FUUUUUUU GS500f!!!!!

i'd call it an operator error

Don't get frustrated now, you've done so much already!  Did you measure the valve clearances and do a compression check?  You can also try a quick squirt of starting fluid and see what it does.

-Jessie

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on January 30, 2012, 06:00:00 PM
Don't get frustrated now, you've done so much already!  Did you measure the valve clearances and do a compression check?  You can also try a quick squirt of starting fluid and see what it does.

-Jessie

I measured valve clearances, yes. the left fit the .03 but I only had a .08 to check.. so that's min. everything seems fine. And I can't do a compression test, Don't have a gauge, I asked to barrow one on craigslist still haven't heard back from no one. and I don't have starting fluid. Still have to buy shims, but I cannot order online right now, cause due to spiteful parents, they canceled me off their debit account < I had my own bank/debit card. and gave me what I had in there, and said If I wanted one I could go apply for one by myself < I don't see how that is fair.. but what ever. So basically its like this. I have some money... but I have nothing to get anywhere. other then a bike. Thus I can ride a bike 25 miles non stop, I don't think the boys down there could handle that kinda riding any more... so basically I'm doing everything locally.

Quote from: J_Walker on January 30, 2012, 06:40:05 PM
the left fit the .03 but I only had a .08 to check.. so that's min.

Not quite following what you mean there.  The best thing you could do for me is list the measurement you got on each valve and what size shim is currently in each valve.  Thanks

-Jessie

my "Bad" valve was set at 2.75 I swapped it for a 2.70, the 2.70 gave me 0.03 clearance, I know I need 2.65 but I don't have no where to buy them, and I borrowed the 2.70 from a friend. Giving it back tomorrow. i'll see what I can do. there needs to be a town fair in my area again.. People drop $50 bills all the time I make like 300 a year well if I see someone drop the 50. I give it back, but if no one is around and its lying there. I pick it up. lol finders keepers

How sure are you that you have the timing lined up exactly right? If it skipped a link when the cam chain tensioner pulled taught while you were tightening the cam that was pushing the bucket down, your timing is off, and you could bend your valves that way (what happened to me).

Not sure how busy he is, selling stolen frames and all  but Steezin has a shim kit he mailed out to me when I needed to check my valves.

Quote from: Dizzledan on January 30, 2012, 07:29:49 PM
How sure are you that you have the timing lined up exactly right? If it skipped a link when the cam chain tensioner pulled taught while you were tightening the cam that was pushing the bucket down, your timing is off, and you could bend your valves that way (what happened to me).

Not sure how busy he is, selling stolen frames and all  but Steezin has a shim kit he mailed out to me when I needed to check my valves.

I took the cam chain tensioner out when I took off the cams, put it in last. as far as I know I counted, And re-counted 18 dots, and marked them with sharpie and lined the arrows up, also when putting in my first exhaust cam in. I made sure to pull the chain tight and hold it there. than I reinstalled the tensioner, and rotated the timing bolt the 19mm one. and everything felt smooth. lined it back up at the first line after RT | | and put the head gasket back on and what not, and tried to turn it over. only thing I didn't put fully back on was the airbox, but I put the engine breather line connected to the air box, but just didn't connect it to the carbs. Who freakin knows.. my bike is retarded. 

With the plugs out, does it blow your thumb off the hole when you crank it over? While those plugs are out, how do they look? Test the spark on them too.

For the shim kit see here:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=13610.980

What were the measurements on your other 3 valves?

-Jessie

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on January 30, 2012, 08:22:21 PM
What were the measurements on your other 3 valves?

-Jessie

don't know, only had .03/.08 feeler gauges. I borrowed. wouldn't fit .08 thats for sure.. all fit .03 tho. Will try super hard tomorrow to find a decent pair of feelers.

i saw your video and it does not look lined up right .you had it lined up with the end edge of the roter and not the first line after RT unless you took video at an angle.if you are not sure you are dead on line check it with a straight edge it must be inline with the magnet,other wise your cam timing will be out.turn clockwise and come up to your line ,if you miss it carry on round till it lines up exactly ..NEEVER EVER GO BACKWARDS AS YOU NEED TO TAKE  UP THE SLACK IN THIS DIRECTION.got it

Quote from: J_Walker on January 30, 2012, 11:19:32 PM

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on January 30, 2012, 08:22:21 PM
What were the measurements on your other 3 valves?

-Jessie

don't know, only had .03/.08 feeler gauges. I borrowed. wouldn't fit .08 thats for sure.. all fit .03 tho. Will try super hard tomorrow to find a decent pair of feelers.

If you have .03 mm or more clearance on all of the 4 valves that makes them all to spec and while more clearance might be nice that is enough for it to run good so it's time to move on for now.  Would be real nice to measure compression about now to completely eliminate the valves as your no start problem.  I would be satisified with a thumb over the hole compression test having done it for some 60+ years now I know what a good compression pop sounds like but maybe you could find a guage to check it.  It's possible for you to have a slightly bent valve from trying to turn it over whlle it was out of time and you could be measuring some clearance without actually having valve seal.  When I had a sticking bucket on my GS it was holding the valve open about .008" (.20+ mm approx) when cold and there was no compression pop on that cylinder.