Alright everybody, I need help from the greatest hive mind on the internet.

I bought my back back in October, not knowing anything about bikes, and got sold a real headache. Valuable lesson of course, but headache none the less.

It's been developing some issues. Here's a list of the issues/symptoms and I was hoping maybe somebody else had problems like this and knows whats wrong. Also, the bikes completely stock (engine-wise)

1. Ticking-like noise from the engine. It's pretty prominent at idle, especially when the idle is low (around 1000rpm). If I kick it up to 2000 its less noticable, but I figure thats from the engine noise covering it up. Could this be valve related?

2. Misfiring. It's pretty subtle and you really have to listen for it. Gets worse as the bike warms up.

3. Choke only works halfway. I can set it to half choke and that bumps it up to maybe 2100, but nothing like the 4-5 grand it used to hit when I first got it.

And yes, I know how to use the search function. But, I haven't seen a threed that specifically matches all these, and I'd rather have an active convo anyways. Thanks in advance everybody

Sorry about the basket case bike, but at least now you get to learn how to wrench!


1. I'd say cam-shaft end play which is present in (most) GS500 engines.

2. If your spark plugs are clean and sparking nice and bright grounded against the frame, I would agree with you that #1 is valve related, and may be causing your misfiring.

3. Does the cable get stuck, or does it have no effect past the halfway point?

#1 and #2 could both be valve train, start by checking your valve clearances.  #3 is carb related unless your choke cable is hanging up.  Worked on a lot of carbs lately so someone correct me if I'm thinking of the wrong ones but I'm pretty sure the choke on a GS just adds extra vacuum to lift the main jet needle out of it's seat a bit.  A thorough carb cleaning may be in order.  My 2 cents, next guesser...

-Jessie

Is the camshaft end play dangerous at all?

Spark plugs are very clean (can't wait to rejet this sucka), so it looks like I'll be checking the valve height this weekend. 

It has no effect. I can choke it fully and it actually seems to have a negative effect if I do this (drop in rpms). I have to carefully move the choke out because if I go too fast, it has no effect, and if I move past the halfway point it either doesnt go past 2xxx or it doesnt choke at all and returns to 1000 rpm.


And I have NO IDEA how this slipped my mind, seeing as it was the original reason for this post, but I seem to be having some drifting issues. Almost like my tire is moving side to side sometimes. I currently have a small leak in my left fork seal and it needs to be replaced. Could that cause something like that? Or the loose chain? or the misfiring from the valve issue? Haha I know thats alot to diagnose so let me know if I'm asking too much of you

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on January 31, 2012, 04:51:28 PM
#1 and #2 could both be valve train, start by checking your valve clearances.  #3 is carb related unless your choke cable is hanging up.  Worked on a lot of carbs lately so someone correct me if I'm thinking of the wrong ones but I'm pretty sure the choke on a GS just adds extra vacuum to lift the main jet needle out of it's seat a bit.  A thorough carb cleaning may be in order.  My 2 cents, next guesser...

-Jessie

I've actually pulled the carbs about three times in the last month to work on various issues. I think I may have messed up the float needles last time a bit, because the other day I had an issue with gas leaking (pouring) out the airbox 

But other than that, they are spotlessly clean.

Camshaft end play is not dangerous, just a nuisance.  What year is your bike?  That was only an issue on early bikes, Suzuki corrected the problem.  I still say checking your valve clearances is job one.  If you have a compression gauge it never hurts to run the numbers there too.  Drifting issue is a thinker.  First check for bearing play and loose parts.  You'd have to have a serious fork seal leak to coat a tire.  Did you adjust the mixture screws when you had the carbs removed?

-Jessie

it's a 96. And with the drifting, I can still only think of a few things that would cause it. Steering head bearing (bike was laid down at around 25mph a year back, maybe thats it?), the vacuum created by the misfire causing engine braking, or the very uneven front suspension.

And nope, I decided not to adjust the mixture until I had everything else in working order

Drifting: I had that problem with Trey. Tried tires (they were new). Bearings OK. Forks OK. Tended to drift after riding 5 minutes. Then when coming to a stop, he seemed like he wanted to turn and fall over.

Steering stem bearings - they really weren't bearings any more. Just rusty crap. When the steering stem warmed up a little, they would seize up and give exactly that feeling. A bike normally wants to go straight and right itself. With sticky steering bearings, it couldn't do that and tended to want to  turn and fall over. Really felt exactly like flat tires.

Put your bike on the center stand. Have someone push down the rear so the front wheel is off the ground. It should float and turn real easy. You can ride a few minutes to let the steering stem warm up a little from friction and check again. If it feels sticky or gummy - replace the steering bearings.

If you remove the triple (or lower it down a little) to actually see the bearing, that bottom bearing should turn almost on its own with just the slightest touch. Any rust or gumminess and it needs replacing. Don't waste time trying to clean it.

Fortunately, the collars in the  steering column were good so I did not have to remove those suckers from the frame. Lucky - we had a spare triple we were able to remove the bearing from and hammer in a new lower bearing. Re-assembled with new top bearing and perfect ever since.
Lot of work to replace that bearing. You might find it easier to buy a used 2008 or 2009 triple from a bike with 2000 miles and swap them out. Maybe $50-$75 for a good triple. A triple from newer bike would have good bearings - good enough for another 10 years at least.

Would something like this work for a replacement?
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/5/83/21652/18127/PITEM/All-Balls-Steering-Stem-Bearing-Kit-1996-Suzuki-GS500E-Parts.aspx

Yes, just make sure that is your problem before you buy anything.  You will need a tool to drive in the new races.

-Jessie

Thanks for the help everybody. Looks like I'll be checking the valves this weekend as well as rejetting if I fork out the extra cash for quick shipping.

Also, I'm now looking into the katana front end swap instead. I can pick up a new front end for less than the cost of repairing this one, not to mention the extra 100 or so for new springs to upgrade mine

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on January 31, 2012, 05:34:49 PM
Yes, just make sure that is your problem before you buy anything.  You will need a tool to drive in the new races.

-Jessie

Oh thats my skill set! A RUBBER MALLET AND A piece of 1x1 wood simple.. kinda, takes work, this is how i'd replace the bearings on go-kart tires! Maybe its different. don't listen to me.

I got stock front fork springs if you need them. maybe we could trade. I have a kat rear shock too, but im replacing it with default. 

Just playing devil's advocate but how do you know the fork seals are any good on the Katana front end?  Also, are you looking at a complete front end with the full brake set up and wheel?  And if you want to keep the factory gauges you have to weld up some mountaing tabs on the Katana top plate.  Things to keep in mind.

-Jessie

The races (or collars)  in the steering column might be OK. They were with Trey. Just the bearings were rusted and stuck. If bearings bad, check the collars. Wipe them then feel them with your fingers. If smooth, then they're probably OK. If you can get by without replacing them, good. Like said - more work replacing those than the bearings and the bearings are not fun.

Something like this would do just fine. 4k miles. Cheap because the top plate is scratched. I bought a few from Pinwall. Got triples with nearly new bearings for less than the cost of the bearings. I think one of my parts bikes had new bearings then parted because the motor had bad compression. (Still need to check the motor.)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/07-Suzuki-GS500-GS-500-FORK-FORKS-TRIPLE-TREE-/200553201849?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2eb1e700b9

Suggestion: If you're going to replace the bearings, get another triple steering stem anyway. You might not be able to remove the bearings. Those suckers are on tight. Anyway, a used steering column from a 2007 might be so good you can use it as is. Steering bearings last a long time but when they're gone - they're gone.

Could problem 2 and 3 be related? My bike misfires sometimes when on partial choke. Perhaps the choke is not "closing" all the way?

Well, shaZam!. Just went and looked at the chain.... Pretty sure it shouldnt sit on that rubber guard. In fact, its eaten through it about half way. That's it, I'm killing the guy who sold me this bike. Brb 

Also, just noticed a new problem that could help tremendously with the diagnosis. When I fully choke it, it knocks out one cylinder. And then I noticed the tube at the bottom of the airbox was undone, so I went to put it back on and holllllly hell there was a small wisp of smoke coming fromthe outlet on the airbox. Should I be really concerned?

Calm down. It does rest on the rubber chain guide. It guides the chain onto the front sprocket.
There are manufactured groves in the guide. I would not worry about the chain guide.

The 4 inches of slack is probably still bad. Haha. And regardless, I'm killin' the guy. Or, egging his house. Yeah, that'll show him