Well now I know why the oil hadn't been changed. Tried for the umpteenth time to get this stupid header bolt out and this happened:



considering I can't get the other one on this pipe out either (I think they used the Hulk to get them in when they last put them in), I don't know what my options are.

And for future reference, how do you guys go about getting stuck header bolts out? I soaked it in WD40 for an hour, tried to no avail, then torched the base (which probably is what caused it to break).

What does the header bolts have anything to do with changing the oil?  Regarding the snapped bolt itself, I would try PB lube and let it soak.   use a lefty drill bit to hopefully back it out, if not you are gonna have to drill it out and helicoil it.  good luck.

 Have to drop the pipes to get to the filter. These are V&H pipes.

Too late for this now but sometimes you can unbolt the exhaust can and flex the pipe enough to get the oil filter out.  At least that works on the now discontinued Yoshimura exhaust system.  Just don't push too hard or you'll crack the head.  Try an impact driver to remove the bolt that isn't broken.  Tap whats left of the broken bolt with a hammer to loosen up corrosion, soak it for a day in PB Blaster and then try turning it with vice grips.

-Jessie

I wouldnt use an impact wrench on that, you'll just spin the bolt off.



Take a socket, add an extension, hit the end of the extension with a hammer to knock the rust off the bolt.  Helps a bit.


Soak it in PB blaster, NOT WD-40.  Before you pull the bolt, take a small torch like a benzomatic or something and heat it up a bit, making sure the area is clean of any combustabiles before you do.


All those have worked for me in the pass.  If all else fails, use an grinder an put a notch in the bolt.  Then use a driver to pull it.



GOOD LUCK!!@#@!

I was referring to a hand impact driver, better than just hitting it with a hammer.  Every motorcycle should come with one of these tools   

-Jessie

Seafoam makes a product similar to PB Blaster. Called "Deep Creep" I think. Supposed to be as good. It doesn't stink as bad and is non-flammable. I've used both. Don't see any difference - both seem to work the same.

Tapping the bolt is a great idea! That will crack the rust locking the bolt in.

Heating the block and not the bolt helps. Aluminum expands, making the bolt hole a scooch bigger. There the SeaFoam stuff would be good because it won't catch fire.

... We posted at the same time. Gonna go buy me one of those red plastic boxes with cool black tools in it!

There should be an FAQ dedicated to broken bolts and stripped threads of all kinds.  It's an epidemic on these forums lately!

@bombsquad: do a search you'll find my thread 'tips and tricks for broken bolts'

@addidas: yeah an impact driver is soo handy when you can't be bothered getting the rattle gun out or you don't have one.

In answer to the thread the pic looks like the head has snapped off the bolt do no socket is gonba work. Soak in penetrating oil or some loctite freeze n release get you vice grips as tight as u can and hope for the best. If you can heat it up too that is good or in an extreme case weld a bolt onto that one with like a 12mm head. Also when you bolt your exhaust back on copper or silver grade anti seize is your friend and use it well. Another idea is screw a stud in and use a flat washer with a brass nut the brass won't seize onto the stud or if you can get it copper.

 Thanks guys. Went and bought some PB, but couldn't find a left hand bit that would fit, so I'll probably have to order that online. It's soaking in some PB right now and in a bit I'll go out and try to use some vice grips on it if I can get them to bite.

Quote from: aussiegs on February 06, 2012, 02:09:35 PM
@bombsquad: do a search you'll find my thread 'tips and tricks for broken bolts'

@addidas: yeah an impact driver is soo handy when you can't be bothered getting the rattle gun out or you don't have one.

In answer to the thread the pic looks like the head has snapped off the bolt do no socket is gonba work. Soak in penetrating oil or some loctite freeze n release get you vice grips as tight as u can and hope for the best. If you can heat it up too that is good or in an extreme case weld a bolt onto that one with like a 12mm head. Also when you bolt your exhaust back on copper or silver grade anti seize is your friend and use it well. Another idea is screw a stud in and use a flat washer with a brass nut the brass won't seize onto the stud or if you can get it copper.

I could not find it your thread doing a search ?
Any links ! 

I bumped it to first page of general discussion.

If you go the heat route don't go to crazy, aluminum will warp a lot easier than steel.  You could also cut a notch in what remains of the bolt and use the flat head screwdriver bit on the impact driver to loosen it.  And if you are worried about the other allen bolt head stripping put a little bit of valve grinding compound on the tip of the allen bit to give it better bite.  Good luck   

-Jessie

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on February 06, 2012, 05:29:26 PM
If you go the heat route don't go to crazy, aluminum will warp a lot easier than steel.  You could also cut a notch in what remains of the bolt and use the flat head screwdriver bit on the impact driver to loosen it.  And if you are worried about the other allen bolt head stripping put a little bit of valve grinding compound on the tip of the allen bit to give it better bite.  Good luck   

-Jessie

+1. Jessie knows what she is talking about.

Quote from: adidasguy on February 06, 2012, 01:52:36 PM
Seafoam makes a product similar to PB Blaster. Called "Deep Creep" I think. Supposed to be as good. It doesn't stink as bad and is non-flammable. I've used both. Don't see any difference - both seem to work the same.

Tapping the bolt is a great idea! That will crack the rust locking the bolt in.

Heating the block and not the bolt helps. Aluminum expands, making the bolt hole a scooch bigger. There the SeaFoam stuff would be good because it won't catch fire.

... We posted at the same time. Gonna go buy me one of those red plastic boxes with cool black tools in it!

^^^^^ that's the stuff right there ! 

if you go for a ride and fully warm the bike (the heat part, this is the safe way) then come home and put a wax candle on the bolt, the wax will flow into the threads. may catch on fire if the bike is really hot... but it's safer than spraying PBBLaster on it when it's smoking hot.

ps - i use PBBlaster when stuff is so hot it will just evaporate or start small fires, but won't suggest it to other folks

wax + heat on the back side = creeeeeping penetrant.

do this 5-10 times before you start trying to mechanically remove anything with vice grips or impacts. let the penetrants do the work.

The Seafoam Deep Creep won't burn.

 Thought I'd update this for those of you wondering. Tried grinding the head off to no avail due to the room available, so I took it to my cousin at the shop where he works and he heated it using a torch, which got the head off (so I pulled the pipe off finally. However, using a stud extractor, both bolts on the left side ended up shearing flush with the engine, so we're gonna attempt to drill them out on Monday with some brand new bits (the bits we tried were worn down too much).

Man what a headache that's gonna be good luck.