Looking on RonAyers.com fiches...you see several parts that have been superceded, some more than once.  For example, you will see part number 13-1, 13-2, and 13-3.  They all appear to be the same part, but 13-2 superceded 13-1 and then 13-3 superceded 13-2.  However, there are still prices on the old parts that have been superceded, and they are often much lower than the newer part.  Can you still order these older parts at a lower price?  If you could, would you want to?  Anyone have experience with this?

One example is the bar end-weight assembly.  That part has been superceded twice, but the original part is much cheaper!

Sometimes old parts are still in stock so you can order themother time the old parts are listed, but when you come right down to the order is says "out of stock".

Try it and see what happens
Cookie

Early bar end weights were lead with steel cover. Then they went to all steel. A single piece of steel is easier to make and use compared to a lead block with a steel covering. Some had a spacer washer then some didn't. So there are a few variations. Then later they dropped the bolt in the end of the bar and went to  the rubber bushing, eliminating the need to weld in a bolt.

Sometimes bike breakers on ebay will have older parts after they disassemble a bike - if you have your heart set on the superseded parts. Sometimes parts whores here will have older parts.

Always check OEM prices before buying cheap or small stuff on ebay. First you have shipping, which you won't have from your local dealer. Second, some things like a mud flap are $20 (was $15 last year) but used ones on ebay may go for more! WTF! Then, you sometimes get a crappy fender with a good mud flap for $10! Move the mud flap to your bike and toss the crappy fender.

What I'm saying is: shop wisely.

That answers all the questions I had about bar ends!  I do need to get a set of those...  I don't have stock bars, so I guess I'll be looking for some with the rubber bushing.

This is what it is:

Some people go aftermarket. Most of those do not have enough mass and are more decorative than functional.
Some are pretty nice. I replaced all my bar ends with the R&G bar ends. Not as expensive as a set of OEMs. Nice chrome steel with plastic end caps and as heavy as OEM's.

89 bars are near about the best @ killing vibes. No weights are no problem. I made those bars in my avatar modeled after the 89 bars, the thicker wall and the angle etc got it to vibrate a lot less, but still more than the 89.
Cool.
Buddha.

Heavy steel helps.
Too many aftermarket bars are either thin or aluminum. Not much mass there for vibration dampening.

(PS: jets?)

This is quickly moving to the topic of bar ends instead of superceded parts, but I now I'm curious.  Do you have a good place to buy the RG ends?  They look good.

Thread jacking! (oh, sorry - that sends your mind in the wrong direction)

I usually order direct from the UK. I order a lot at once so shipping costs average out pretty low. R&G parts are available over here but price is higher. On onesees, it would be cheaper than paying shipping from the UK. If ordering more things - like muffler guards, shark fins, crash sliders..... it can end up cheaper ordering direct.
You can browse what they have. Things like shark find and exhaust protectors are generic so you don't have to look under GS500 for those.
http://www.rg-racing.com/browseBike/Suzuki/GS500_Unfaired/All_Years.aspx
Do a google search to see who carries them locally these days. Always good to support your local dealer if they can get them.

AS for SUPERCEDED PARTS: They get changed for a variety of reasons: design change, improvements, materials availability, color changes, etc. When I buy new, I get what is current. When I buy used, meh... whatever comes....   And like I said, sometimes new is not much more than used. Sometimes new is cheaper. I make each purchase on a case by case basis. Sometimes buy more from same seller to get a break on shipping. (I just got 2007 front and rear calipers with 1000 miles and excellent pads for ..... get this.... $9.95 each. The matching OEM rotors with 1000 miles were $24.95 each. Sometimes a steal of a deal shows up!)