Check with BaltimoreGS  for some engine parts.

Oz, what do you mean by gravel? Literally, little chunks of rocks? All it takes is one little tiny stone to block an oil passage and your motor will toast itself.

While you certainly can pull the pan off and try to flush the motor, I would highly recommend splitting the cases. With the top end assembled (cams, drive chain, etc but not the pistons) you can pull just the bottom case off. That is where the vast majority of any gritty stuff would be.

rich, this is how she currently sits...


yes i mean tiny little stones. (sigh) i suppose ill split the case then. i better get some plasti-gauge.
gonna have to make sure all the bearings are within spec, all galleries clear, i hope i wont need any bottom end parts...
this is quickly turning into a major project. oh well, once its done it will last me. (if i do it right) fingers crossed.

i wish i had a decent air compressor at home. would make all this so much simpler.

so i went to pa cycle salvage today. i had intended on only bringing home a top end...
instead for ten dollars more than they quoted me for top end, they gave me a whole engine, minus a few parts, from a 91 model.
original quote...175. so for 185 i have a case topend and internals. 

pics shortly
(edit) and here they are.





im hoping after a tear down, cleaning and rebuild this engine will be in better shape than the original

^^^ nice man! 

glad u got a nice deal

Quote from: oz353 on November 04, 2011, 06:46:01 PM
i like the white... the stripes gotta go. they're nice but i need new tail piece\s
so ill probly do a diy paint job.

Maybe you can build something like this in white color 

+1 on white

So, it has been a while since I've updated.

As you can see I got the spare parts engine from the bike bone yard. Much to my dismay, when I pulled the head off I found that the right cylinder was rusted badly. (the engine had sat on its side and got a little moisture in there.) I got what I could off and discovered very light pitting. (sorry no pics of all this. Did it all at work on spare time.) So what was I to do with thrift in mind?

I lightly sanded entire cylinder with 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper (wet with solvent) had solvent flowing constantly. Got alot of the corrosion off. Then I took a three stone cylinder hone, which was much to big I might add (4"), and proceeded to hone both cylinders. I got them pretty d@m smooth with a decent crosshatch. The pitting was not very deep. When dragging a fingernail through cylinder it only caught in one spot (not around entire cylinder only a spot about the size pin head) and it really didnt even catch. like running over a extremely minor imperfection in a piece of glass.

I also split both cases, the bone yard one first for practice  . I cleaned out the original case and slapped everything back together.
I am currently awaiting a generator from burning1 and once that is on I will perform a compression test. (I should have measured everything but I didnt have all the tools I needed easily available  ) For some reason I dont think hand cranking the engine will be sufficient for a compression test. If the compression is way low or out of spec I will need new jugs and rings. Sheesh I am really burning through cash just trying to get the engine right!  I still need fresh tires, new pads and rotors and would like ss lines and new pegs.

I am also awaiting bar tubes rear plastics and a fresh set of forks set up for my weight thanks to addidasguy!
I'll be putting fresh seals and possibly cartridge emulators in the new forks. I also plan to do the R6 rear shock mod.

Im going to have to rejet because i got a drop in k&n from afterbooster in the box o parts he sent me. So ill have the drop in k&n and a stock exhaust unless i come across a set of cut pipes to put a slip-on on. Hmm thats redundant. haha. perhaps a vance and hines full system eventually.

Ps. does anyone know what weight the newer model fork springs best support? I weigh between 170 and 180. (It fluctuates alot)

Might be able to help out with some of the stuff. Shoot a PM.
Trying to clean out some of the extras. Just picked up a pair of calipers and rotors front and rear with 1000 miles only. $60 for all, so that frees up some of the rotors and calipers with 4000 miles. My best find was a set with 240 miles. I love getting parts after squids smash up their brand new bike. I cry for the bike. Got some extra SS likes, I think. I find SS lines don't twist and bend like rubber ones. Being picky how they fit, I may order some custom SS lines for the front due to angles of MS on the clip-ons and distance to the calipers.

PS: The extra newer springs I sent are better than the originals in the forks. If tight on $ right  now, put those in and maybe add another inch of pre-load. Go heavier oil and you'll be alright for now. I'm 170 and newer springs are "OhKay" but 0.85's are really ideal I have found. Do the suggested and you'll be alright until you can afford 0.85's. Put money elsewhere and avoid running up a curb or going fast over a 2" driveway entrance (slow down a little so you don't bottom out). Handling wise on turns you will be fine.

For your weight, I don't think you need the R6 shock. Stock feels fine except when I have a passenger (only once, taking the seller of a parts bike back to the beach). Adjusting stock stiffer should be enough. Suggest saving that mod for later. Put money into the important things right now.

While cash is tight, go for the safety issues like brakes and tires. Leave the fluff (like changing rear shock) until later.

think you might be fine with the stock fork springs at that weight.
recall reading somewhere on these forums that someone asked if they would be fine and they weighed 150, replies were they would be fine.
so up to 30 pounds more might not be too much.

Fork springs are an easy swap to do, so I would honestly wait until your riding around on it and decide for yourself.

http://beergarage.com/GSForks.aspx
theres the link for changing the oil from the forks being on the bike at the start.
changing springs is pretty much the same procedure.
except with my progressive springs, I had to cut another spacer from the tube that was supplied with them.

Awesome! Thanks for the input fellas. All advice I get here is always taken into consideration.

I did in fact have my eye on some .85's  this is why i asked about the newer springs. i absolutely will use the newer springs in the forks your sending me. will put them in when i put the new seals in. then i can put the .85's in the set i have on now when im ready to rebuild them. Yay for 0 downtime! (snicker at self) gotta get the up and running time first dummy.

for the brakes the budget side of my mind says get the used stuff yet the safety side says get spankin new. what to do what to do.

how badly to the ss lines fit with 89' clip ons? gotta pic by chance?

Thanks Tomb... i have seen that, and baltimoregs's video. god i love the wealth of information on this forum.

Just got done cleaning the clusterf*** of a basement preparing to move.

totally forgot I have 3 cylinders, thought I had 2 at first.

one cbr sent me is on my bike.
another one next to my desk I bought on ebay thats got some bad rust damage on the inside. (they coulda posted better pics ><)
and my old one which is still perfectly fine, but needs to be honed. (which I can do)

had some upper engine problems lately.
hopefully that will all be fixed finally when I take care of the last thing on the list, which is 2 tight valves. (to make it short)
going to be a week until I get the new shims delivered and do another compression test.

so if that all works out and shes running 100% again.

Then I will have an extra cylinder section of the motor available if yours doesnt pan out for ya from the rust.
which is the one that was on there before I broke an exhaust valve from a stuck bucket.
zero problems with it at all, from my 94.

Wow thanks tomb! Ill keep that in mind. I have a feeling ill need that. I hope all goes well for you! Im trying to move soon myself. I found a nice duplex   with a garage! Ill finaly have my own garage! (if everything goes well)

Addidasguy: I think taking you up on the offer for the brakes would be the best rout for me to go. Itll 0e a short while till I can make another parts purchase. However I would like to reserve those parts if I could. And the ss lines.

no problem.
Just showing someone else the same courtesy Cbr showed me.
Just pay for shipping ""IF"" I dont need it and thats it.

which shouldnt be much since it will be going from the Wilkes Barre / Scranton area only to Pitt.
heck, the cylinders, head, and a piston only ran $25 from Texas!

Even if I continue to have problems, I doubt I will need it tho.
My problems have had nothing to do with the cylinders, but everything above it and one piston that got damaged on the top from the exhaust valve breaking from a stuck valve bucket.

but, I wanna be better safe then sorry first. (goin by my bad luck) hahaha

so hopefully all she needs are those 2 new shims.

and nice on the garage!
Im going from a warm basement to the cold outdoors
Think I might just build myself a decently sized shed tho, specifically for motorcycle work and storage.

Ok, so i have a new question...

i just put the new bar tubes on that i got from addidasguy. (thanks for the parts guy!)  and i noticed that when i turn the bars from stop to stop, they go farther left than right. is this normal?

i double checked that nothing was interfering with its motion. the lower triple is clearly hitting the tab on the neck as it should, however it appears that the tab is off set? can anyone verify this on a known unwrecked bike?

can take pics if needed.

I suggested this stuff to a guy with a rusty tank...

http://www.evaporust.com/

Maybe you could salvage some rusty parts with this. I've used it on a rusty tank as well as on some bolts and stuff off an old Honda. It's not toxic, btw. I know it's a little pricey for a gallon, but it would be cheaper than buying some parts that you might be able to salvage.

cool! thanks for the advisory notice. however i really need an answer to my last question if anyone could?

I probably missed it, but what bar tubes? Handle bars or the 89 clip ons?

rich, i have an '89 with original '89 clip ons. so i had just replaced the bar tubes. both were bent. the left alot more than the right.  so i replaced both of them. after bolting them on i found that when i turn the bars from stop to stop the left bar comes almost parallel with the frame. but when i turn the bars all the way to the right the right bar doesn't even come close to parallel.
shall i post some pics of what I'm pathetically trying to describe?

(edit) I think i shall...
this is turned full left. against stopper tab.


this is full right, also against stopper tab.


this is the tab im speaking of.


...from the front....



so is that normal or should i be worried?

I see what you're saying now. Sounds like your top clamp (and mounts) might be twisted. Do you have a top clamp from a later year GS? Might try putting normal handle bars on.