I tried 1 washer on each needle and it worked better but it still felt like a large ammount of fuel was being restricted. I then put it back to stock (no washers), and got ANOTHER PROBLEM 

Now the bike is being starved for fuel (full fuel tank, and i did turn the fuel on before the tank went back on). Im stumped on this one so might take it to the dealer and see what they think.

REAP that does sound kinda odd.  The only thing that comes to mind is maybe you kinked a fuel line when you put the tank back on.

Hmmm, will check now.


EDIT: Thanks nascar, the fuel line was kinked so i fixed that but i think something is still wrong with it.

Its back to stock but when it idles its low rpm. I give it some throttle and it dosnt want to pick up so i give it full then let off and it comes back down real slow.  (f that makes any sence)

So it fixed one problem but found another.

Glad I could help.  That is a problem that is discussed on the forum somewhere I just can remember what post it is in.  Your saying it revs up high, kinda hangs, and the rpm's come back down slowly correct?

I just checked the wiki and turns out the bike is just running lean. Will work out how to fix it later. Im just too lazy at the moment 

The original poster's picture has the washers installed incorrectly. They need to go on the bottom side to lift the needle higher, in turn enrichening the mid range.

No he's correct. He moved the plastic thing down. U just have to make sure they go below the clip which he did properly. I did this today and my bike runs so much better it's not funny

amazing. I opened my 2007 and has same type of carburetor as in the initial pictures in this thread. But the needle had just one shim below the white plastic. and none above the plastic (still above the plastic but below the snap so it is pushing the needle up as if it was below the plastic ring)
so if you count spacers below the snap ring, mine had 1 shim and the one in the picture had 3 before mod and 5 after mod! that is curious...
I went to ACE and got two types of washers but one was to big outside diameter and the other was to small inside diameter to fit the needle.....so I could do nothing...
I saw that there was one washer over the snap ring over the white ring (probably to help the little spring push against a shim and not the snap ring. Thought the snap ring was strong enough so put that shim under the plastic ring adding some more surface to push the needle up.

It really helped. The choke is more manageable. You can go full open and when it reaches 5000rpm you can slowly close it to stay in 3500 4000 for a minute or two. Then off and it stays in 1200. I can get the bike moving much easier (no playing "too much" with clutch and throttle)
Guess that now that I have the dimensions of the washers can go buy the correct one and add it another rainy day.
But always having some extra screws for the caps as I also had to take out one with the special tool as explained at the begging of the topic

Allright, this is my bike:
main: 145
mid-main :65
pilot: 22.5

Exhaust is a straight 1.75 - 2 inches back, only the harley muffler which is basically a straight pipe (debaffled)

it seems fine compared to stock, but I wouldn't know what a good running one felt right.

It starts up a little rich, but once its warm it don't smell of gas anymore.

Pops on decelerating at whatever gear.

I think that means I need to go up on the mid, which is what the washer mod would be for

Should I washed mod?

is #3 washer the same as 3/8ths?

How many to start?

# 3 washers come in 3 series .........R series   with an inside diameter of 0.109", outside dia of.312", thickness of.032"
W series.109" inside diameter ,.406"outside diameter ,thickness .040"
and N series which is the one i think you need..109"inside diameter,.219" outside diameter ,thickness.025" But you will need to check this against your existing washers .This is about .6 of a millermeter and i thought our washers were thicker

Home depot dont have them, would harbor freight or lowes?

I think I want the r series. More horsepowerz!

I only was able to get fiber washer at home depot (ACE did not have them) . Identical to the metal ones but fiber. Will they work? I guess that they will not be having a lot of pressure (just the needle)
should I go ahead and use them?

I wouldn't want to chance that melting being in the same environment with gas.

All this talk about #3 washers, I used #4 like this guide says:
http://www.angelfire.com/mt2/mikesgs500/rejetting/

Insert one or two #4 stainless steel washers btw the C-clip and the plastic doughnut.

Got mine at Lowes, .20$ each stainless steel.

#4 washers from homedepot were too big but #4s washer from lowes were the perfect size(just had to drill out the inside diameter a tiny bit). Save your money on screw extractors and buy one of these hand impact drivers. Knocks the screws out like nothing. That said I did end up breaking one of the tabs that holds te needle and cap so the $0.60 mod ended up costing me $54. 

I also was inspired by Nascarkeith. 2005 GS500F. Rapped lightly on the screws that hold the top cap on they came right out! easy, no stripping. I had a bag of assorted washers I bought at radio shack less than 3 dollars I think. Pulled the needles out put 2 washers under the clip put it back together. It started right up. I reved it up a bit sounded OK. Looked over at the work bench there were the springs that go under the top cap, the long soft springs. Doh! I took it back apart and put the springs in. Why did it seem to run fine without those springs?

Quote from: mike10 on March 04, 2012, 07:43:29 PM
I also was inspired by Nascarkeith. 2005 GS500F. Rapped lightly on the screws that hold the top cap on they came right out! easy, no stripping. I had a bag of assorted washers I bought at radio shack less than 3 dollars I think. Pulled the needles out put 2 washers under the clip put it back together. It started right up. I reved it up a bit sounded OK. Looked over at the work bench there were the springs that go under the top cap, the long soft springs. Doh! I took it back apart and put the springs in. Why did it seem to run fine without those springs?

Rapped with Impact driver real eazy like.