no... i got what you see. i was thinking maybe the tab shifted. i don't know... if I'm replacing the triple clamps and all that i want the same as i have now. i really like how that looks and feels.

so this is definitely not normal for the gs?

Sorry Oz, I can't tell you what's normal for a GS. I do want to say it's not normal for any bike though. The stem should turn the same amount each direction and the bars should be the same distance from the tank at each extreme.

But not knowing anything about the 89 top clamp, you could post pics and hopefully somebody else can help more than me.

well, for anyone following this... according to the findings of the great  addidasguy, this issue of turning further one way than the other (further left than right) appears to be normal. possibly a screw up by the guy welding the frames together.

things to note about my bike in particular: the stopper tab welded to the neck is not quite centered. also the stopper tab on neck is not uniformly shaped. (different angles on left and right side of the tab)

im almost positive that all F.E. parts are straight. if anyone knows how to verify (prior to test ride) i would greatly appreciate the info.

Yep - looks like that tab is not welded in the right way. Possible it got torqued a little to the left in a bad fall. It is odd the paint is coming off of the weld.

How far past the position to lock the steering (with the key) does it go? It SHOULD stop at right about where the key locks the steering.

To go more right, you can grind some off of that tab.

I do find a little variation in left/right on some bikes but not as much as I see on yours.

PS: I see you said the left bar was really bent. Sounds like bike dropped hard on left - bent bar AND the steering stop tab. I wonder if the bearing collar and that part of the steering stem is still round. Have you taken off the steering column and examined the lower bearing collar? Looked inside the steering tube from the bottom side to see if there are any signs of damage? (i.e. not perfectly round)

  no i havent disassembled the FE yet. i will definitely keep an eye out for out of roundness.

You got all the controls off so it is simple.
2 bolts for the top triple to loosen from the forks. And the steering stem bolt. Lift off the top triple with the top plate. The rest of the front end will fall out the bottom.

Take pictures and let us know what you find. Hopefully there is no damage to the lower bearing collar. If not round anymore - I'm not sure what to do other than replace the frame. If there is damage to the steering tube BUT the bearing collar is round, you're OK. Grind off part of that tab so the steering will go more to the right.

 

i think i may very well cry now...





i guess i need a titled frame now. how much is that gonna run me. F*#&(!!!!!!

ive now wasted my time and money for nothing.

not sure what im lookin at, but that really sucks if its a pic of being boned

could try the salvage yard u got a deal on the engine at.

not sure your financial situation but im pretty certain it would be cheaper then a running motor.

well, if your going to continue...
I can at least TRY to cheer u up a bit.
tho I can somewhat know how u feel and it wont help as a few times I thought I was boned on my engine.

dont need the extra cylinders I have for sure now.
which are in fine working condition.

so when u move forward with or without the bike.
let me know.
It'll be sittin here waitin for ya

(edit)
just checked ebay.
whole ton of them from what seems to be from the same seller for $50 +$150 shipped pretty much.
all seem to not include the removable section on the side of the motor tho.

might wanna send them a msg and see if any have the title.

thanks tomb, i was looking at those. particularly the ones from pinwall. they are located two hours from me. they state that the title is sent back to state of ohio upon tear down. so that means research as to if i may title the frame here in pa.

i have read quite a few threads of other peoples title issues. perhaps i should reread some of those.

the pictures are of the collar, the bearing race is pressed into, bent. this gives possibility to the bearing shifting while riding.
i have thought, for a brief moment, of just hammering it back a bit. however i do not think that would help. if i shine a light down from the top i can see light from around the race in the place thats bent.

sudden thought, if its bent right here whos to say the rest of this frame isnt tweaked.   to my untrained eye it seems straight. although my instinct is telling me this bike went down HARD  . its probably bent and just havent noticed yet.

ouch!
Yeah and if u can get it in place with mere pressure from a hammer, imagine the damage from riding.
aka: big pot hole etc etc

I guess try the for sale section and ask if anyone has one while you figure things out.

hope it ends up good man, Im lookin forward to someone showin me around Pitt on a bike vs my brother in a car when i go visit hahaha

that would sure be nice if it can be ready by then.

im thinking perhaps in the mean time i can strip the frame all the way down  and use it for testing the engine, once my generator rotor arrives. very anxious for that. want to see if it will run. ill be able to bolt it in there and perform compression testing and possibly run. this way i can still get the engine squared away whilst i have a pity party about the frame.

Ouch! I feel bad about that and it seems to be what I figured. I hate to be the one to point out bad news. But better knowing it now than later. That bike really had a bad fall. I kind of suspected that when you mentioned the left bar was really bent bad.

I wonder if you could cut off the steering tube and weld another one on? I do have an un-titled frame 1989 that could be cannibalized. The rear had been cut up and trashed, so basically it is a trashed frame but the front is good.

You might be able to get a machine shop to pound it back and re-true the collar area and put in a new bearing collar.

That really is the shitz.

PS: I see you are close to Pinwall. I bet they can tell you what to do. I have bought a ton of parts from them. Probably would involve a bill of sale then an inspection. That's what Washington would require for a salvage title.

I think you might be right about the rest of the frame not being true. Looking at that photo again, I wouldn't trust the rest of the frame. See what Pinwall can do for you.

Quote from: oz353 on February 25, 2012, 06:34:03 PM
that would sure be nice if it can be ready by then.

im thinking perhaps in the mean time i can strip the frame all the way down  and use it for testing the engine, once my generator rotor arrives. very anxious for that. want to see if it will run. ill be able to bolt it in there and perform compression testing and possibly run. this way i can still get the engine squared away whilst i have a pity party about the frame.

kk lil advice since you redid at least the top part of the motor.
or going to etc etc
so much going on, I cant keep track of everything haha

I wouldnt worry for a low compression after that work.
I got low numbers before I even took her for a ride.
which had me thinking the motor might need to be replaced.
read and read and read and read.
one thing that was pretty constant.
dont bank on numbers being correct off the bat until its broken in properly and everything gets seated.

mine is running better then it did before and I had a wide range of low numbers on my compression tests before I even took it for a spin.
now to just get the oil leak fixed 

(edit)
and I wouldnt worry about engine gaskets until you are sure its running good.
and after you have a titled frame to put it in.

you def. dont wanna be taking the engine apart again after putting new gaskets in if you've ran the motor a bit.

(edit again)
ugh im all over the place today! hahaha

even if you dont have it all together and 100% by the time I take my vacation this spring or summer and head out to Pitt(if I even can with low staff at work)
I can at least help ya wrench on it as other then Sat and Sun, my brother works LONG hours.
So I will need something else to do lol

Wow. When it rains it pours i guess.

Just looked on Craigslist and saw this one:
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/mcy/2854272689.html

Or for a couple hundred more I could sell you a bone stock 83 GR650! Kidding Oz - hope you get some good news soon.

Id powerwash it with a pressure washer with simple green in it, dry it, bathe it in wd40, than spray liquid wrench on every single bolt, and let it sit for two weeks.

Quote from: xunedeinx on February 25, 2012, 11:50:33 PM
Id powerwash it with a pressure washer with simple green in it, dry it, bathe it in wd40, than spray liquid wrench on every single bolt, and let it sit for two weeks.

Dip tank. The amount of pbblaster for a frame sized dip tank would beworth more than the bike though.

Ill bet you $2 your wheel bearings, swing arm pivot, and all cables are toast too.

bad news bro 

had a bad oil leak below the cylinders.
gasket I bought was total garbage.
took the whole top end off yet again.

noticed 2 BAD scratches down the cylinder walls. (too bad to use it)

so now I have to use my old cylinders that I was hoping to send your way   

A West Seattle GS500 Club Member showed me a hardened steel cone shaped tool used to re-round out a bicycle steering collar. I guess mountain bikes get that bent a lot. Look into that at a good bicycle shop. Maybe they can fix the steering tube.

Quote from: ohgood on February 26, 2012, 02:26:23 AM
Ill bet you $2 your wheel bearings, swing arm pivot, and all cables are toast too.

I have plenty of swing arms and some cables.
No spare bearings. Oh, wait - there might be a good set of used steering column bearings and even a steering stem triple.

i think im leaning further toward finding a already running rideable bike. im going to offer the guy from this...http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=59369.0 ... $800 cash. if he doesnt go for it, i will return my attention to this scrap pile and consider that bike tool addidasguy mentioned. if thats a no go, ill just keep my eyes peeled for a new frame or ready to ride bike.