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The ride the GS500 gave me. (Build thread.)

Started by verboseone, January 30, 2012, 02:10:33 PM

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bombsquad83

I hope not.  My engine is sitting out of my frame right now with a pile of motor mounts and spacers next to it.    :embarassed:

verboseone

Things are starting to go a little more smoothly. With the help of a friend we moved the engine, front forks, and rear suspension/brakes over.

I haven't set the torgue on the brake bits yet, but everything else is correctly torqued.  The engine looks pretty in the black frame.  I need to get a cover for the right side of the engine.  I currently have some duck tape to cover a hole.  Does anyone have one of these?

I've got a few parts to order bolt wise.  I actually think this may be ride able by March.



DSCF2443 by verboseone, on Flickr



DSCF2452 by verboseone, on Flickr



DSCF2457 by verboseone, on Flickr



DSCF2459 by verboseone, on Flickr

SS Adrenaline

What do you do with the grey frame afterwards?
2006 Suzuki GS500F
-Clocks For Bikes Temp/Time Gauges
-Jetting: 22.5,65,147.5 (3 Turns Out)
-Custom Underseat Storage
-Blue LED Gauges WLED-X5
-NGK Iridium DPR8EIX-9
-Jardine RT1 Full Exhaust
-K&N Lunchbox RU-2970
-K&N 62-1320 Vent Filter
-Custom SS Chain Guard
-Custom Rear Hugger
-Fiamm HK9 Horn

verboseone

Was going to sale it real cheap like $50.  There is no title for it. It can not get a title in the State of Georgia (Parts Only Bike).

steezin_and_wheezin

if yer binders ain't squeakin, you ain't tweakin!

verboseone

I torqued the rear brake parts today.  I also looked at the wire bypass.  Though the two wires it connects are the same color I'm a little confused by it.  I'm going to find a schematic and see if I can tell what is going on.

verboseone

I found a wiring harness diagram:

It looks like they just bypassed the clutch switch.  Is that a switch that usually goes bad?  Are they any real draw backs of making this a more permanent bypass?

Paulcet

Drawbacks, yes.  It would allow you to start the bike in gear and clutch engaged (if the sidestand is up or had a faulty switch) which may cause injury or damage.

However, mine has been bypassed for the last 19,000 miles and I rather like being able to start the bike with one hand while I hold my helmet in the other.  If the shift into neutral doesn't feel quite right, I further confirm it is in neutral or hold the clutch while starting.

'97 GS500E Custom by dgyver: GSXR rear shock | SV gauges | Yoshi exh. | K & N Lunchbox | Kat forks | Custom rearsets | And More!

adidasguy

Quote from: verboseone on February 14, 2012, 06:35:48 PM
I found a wiring harness diagram:

It looks like they just bypassed the clutch switch.  Is that a switch that usually goes bad?  Are they any real draw backs of making this a more permanent bypass?

Ah - you found my photobucket area. You're welcome!

verboseone

Quote from: adidasguy on February 14, 2012, 09:55:50 PM
Quote from: verboseone on February 14, 2012, 06:35:48 PM
I found a wiring harness diagram:

It looks like they just bypassed the clutch switch.  Is that a switch that usually goes bad?  Are they any real draw backs of making this a more permanent bypass?

Ah - you found my photobucket area. You're welcome!

Haha, I found it using google.  I guess I'm not really surprised it was someone from this site.  :) One applause for you.

verboseone

Quote from: Paulcet on February 14, 2012, 07:12:15 PM
Drawbacks, yes.  It would allow you to start the bike in gear and clutch engaged (if the sidestand is up or had a faulty switch) which may cause injury or damage.

However, mine has been bypassed for the last 19,000 miles and I rather like being able to start the bike with one hand while I hold my helmet in the other.  If the shift into neutral doesn't feel quite right, I further confirm it is in neutral or hold the clutch while starting.

Why did you bypass it? I just checked bikebandit and it appears to be a rather cheap switch.  Unless of course the problem is in the harness. 

Paulcet

I dropped it at a stop sign.  :oops: and broke the clutch lever. Then broke the switch when I replaced the lever. (It was before Adidasguy came along with his excellent tutorial about clutch levers.)  However, I think I would disable the switch eventually. As I said I like it this way.

'97 GS500E Custom by dgyver: GSXR rear shock | SV gauges | Yoshi exh. | K & N Lunchbox | Kat forks | Custom rearsets | And More!

verboseone

My 5 bolts and 1 nut at a $20 cost from bike bandit finally came in.  I'm hoping to wrap up the wiring harness and get the headlight back in this week.

steezin_and_wheezin

if yer binders ain't squeakin, you ain't tweakin!

knowles

This is one of the best build threads without much building, but funny as hell nun the less. Keep going, me likey
:woohoo:
1989 GS 500EK

verboseone

#35
It has been a while since I updated everybody.  I've been real busy with a rental property that was in a rather derelict condition. As if that wasn't bad enough I have also had 4 different sets of family members visiting for entire weekends.  I am finally coming to a completion with the rental project and will sit down and get this one moving again.  I have progressed with a few things.

I'm pretty sure I already told everyone that the 3' electric lamp plugin cable was used to bypass the clutch switch.  I have since tested the clutch switch. This thing only completes the circuit if you pull it halfway and up.  No wonder they bypassed it.   I still have no idea why they needed to go the length of the bike to complete this bypass.   Perhaps they were much to lazy to find this wonderful site's resources.

I have repaired the connections the previous owner used to bypass the clutch switch. Sadly, I was just able to clean the bare wire, and wrap it in electrical tape.  I attempted to pull the pins out of the connectors so I could slip on heat shrink tube.  I stopped trying just shy of destroying the connector itself.  I've pulled his cable out and added my own 5" cable that is easily disabled in the head lamp assembly.

I used a similar method to add my wires. I used a utility knife to cut away at the insulation until I had about 1/4" exposed.  I then pushed the new wire through it.  This made kind of a weave.  I then smoothed the wires and soldiered them in place.  (The previous guy just wrapped the new wire around the exposed area and hoped for the best.)  And mostly just to one up the guy, I actually managed to pull the pins lose from that connector and slide on heat shrink tube instead of using electrical tape.


2012-03-13 18.42.41 by verboseone, on Flickr

I've connected all the wires under the headlamp back, and bolted the light in.
Once I review my mass of pictures to make sure I put the rest of the wire harness back correctly, this project will get moving fast. 

verboseone

#36
I found a wonderful repair manual supplement someone posted that shows the path the wire harness should take.  This has saved me probably a good half hour of going through all my photos. 

I begin to attach the wire harness as the directions state. Well damn, some of the wire harness needs to be routed certain ways around the air-box.  I should go ahead and install that. Well jolly-green-watermelons, I can't really put the air-box in without the carbs. Let me do that first.

The carb's don't want to go in.  Where's the lube?!  Alright, all lubed up.  The carbs slide in.  I mount the air-box. I mount the wire harness. Everything looks good.  I was missing what appeared to be a cable holder for the wire harness that attaches to an air-box bolt.  I find a suitable replacement around the shop.

PICTURE suitable replacement (Forgot this one, I'll get it later.)
EDIT: Added picture.

2012-04-09 19.27.00 by verboseone, on Flickr

Yeah, rubber edges, that will work great.  Well the front of the bike is practically done.  Oh-wait, the throttle and choke cables still need to be attached to the carbs. I've got to take off the air-box, and carbs to reattach the throttle cables (I remember how hard it was to remove them, without taking the carbs off the first time).  I get my cables attached. Put everything back together.  There, now the front is practically finished. 

Maybe, I should go ahead and get the stuck part attached to the battery box on the old frame.  I'll need it shortly to route the wires well.  I get my drill and go to work on it.  I end up having to hold a screw driver on the other side of the battery box, to keep the pressure from the drill from just bending the box instead of drilling the screw.  Finally, I get through. With minimal damage to whatever part this is.

I have already purchased new bolts for this, and the mud flap on the rear swing arm.  I take the part to the new frame and go to bolt it on.  . . . What's this? The battery compartments are not the same.  I go look at the old one, it has a broken bolt in one place, and is rusty as hell. 


DSCF246_1-2 by verboseone, on Flickr

I figure I might as well make the new one work.  I bend the bottom gripper tab down. (It is already down in the photo above.) And begin trying to fit my electronic gizmo to the battery.  I don't want to do anything flaky like duct tape.  But don't get me wrong, the thought definitely crossed my mind.  There is not a good position where I can make two bolt holes. I decide for one, near the top. 


DSCF2464 by verboseone, on Flickr

DSCF2465 by verboseone, on Flickr

DSCF2466 by verboseone, on Flickr

I clean up the hole, and spray it with some black Rustoleum spray paint to try and prevent it from looking like my old battery tray. I've got a few stainless screws and lock bolts. I'll use one of those.  I also have a giant washer, to make up some of the damage I caused to the mounting hole.  The washer is to big, and needed to be ground down to fit.  Once everything is bolted up the feel is pretty solid.  I spray, very badly, paint the bolt and washer on the frame so they don't stick out like a sore thumb.  Now they are more or less a sore pinky.


DSCF2468 by verboseone, on Flickr


DSCF2471 by verboseone, on Flickr


DSCF2473 by verboseone, on Flickr


DSCF2472 by verboseone, on Flickr

Yes, yes..  I know you are jealous of my pink work bench. Get over it and keep reading about this build. I proceed to connect all the hanging bits of the wire harness end.  After doing this, I realize it looks like crap, and I undo it all.  I go inside to look at pictures of the wire harness and see if the wires at the end were fished under the frame or above.  Before I can enter the password in my computer I hear a knock at the door.

It's my friendly neighbor.  He wants to chat a while about a recent neighborhood problem.  The problem being resolved he goes on chatting about other things that deal with loud cars and motorcycles.  I enjoy the company, but am anxious to get this bike going.  Deciding it would be rude to go inside look at the pictures and then come back out I move onto other bits of the bike.

I hook the clutch cable and attach the side cover to the engine.  Forgetting I haven't done anything with the chain, I actually torque this cover properly.  I'll get to undo that later. For now it looks better with it in place.  I still have the mud flap on the old frame.  I get my neighbor to steady the frame while I drill out the bolt.  Everything goes as planned.  Now let's move onto the second bolt.   

WEEEE! The bolt must have been thinking as it spun freely in the frame.  Well, the hammer drill isn't going to do much with this.  I spot the grinder I used to flatten the washer.  I bet this'll do! I grab the grinder and safety goggles. I loan the goggles to the neighbor.  I'm wearing glasses, that'll have to be good enough.  I start grinding away.  Everything is going good. 

Look how pretty it is when it glows red. I think to myself. Oh-snorkle!!! The plastic is melting.  The neighbor grabs the mud flap to steady it while I run to the hose and get water.  I pour the water over everything making a bit of a mess.  It actually manages to boil for a little bit.  I figure this flap is ruined.  We proceed anyway.  This time I take several breaks to cool it down with water.  Finally, we get through.  The mud flap still looks rather usable.  I tell the neighbor that I've definitely taken some years off of it, but it'll still work for now.


Two questions. 
The T plug on the bottom of the carbs is gas, and the one above is drainage.  Is that correct?

In this photo you can see what is my guess is a drain on the air-box.  Should there be a hose or anything here?

DSCF2477 by verboseone, on Flickr

bombsquad83

The bottom T on the carb is gas, and the top T should have a tube that flops over the top of the airbox.  This is a breather tube to make sure there is no airlock preventing gas flow.  It needs to be routed over and rest behind the airbox to make sure it does get positive pressure through it with the wind.

verboseone

Managed to get the bike running today!! Started leaking gas.  Realized I forgot to tighten the rubbers bits in betweet the carbs and engine.  Seems to be running fine now without the leak.
I got the rear fearing on, and wiring harness all in place.  I do not have the proper battery, so a bit is out of place. I'll get on that later.

I replaced the two part fuel lines. They are now one hose each instead of two joined hoses.  Not sure why it was done this way.

My throttle sticks horribly.  I'm not sure what I need to adjust lube. Any help?
I acts like I'm still holding the throttle. There is no pull back.

http://youtu.be/twUBVhH6eW8  Video of it running.

Missing picture from before of the wire harness holder.

2012-04-09 19.27.00 by verboseone, on Flickr

TODO:
Chain (no idea how) I'll look up some videos.
Fix throttle sticking.
Get proper battery.

verboseone


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