Here it is, for all to enjoy. Was a blast to make thanks to cods for helping out on the camera and I welcome any feedback cheers.

http://youtu.be/a_0gnFaONfY

Nice   

-Jessie

Most helpful. Will save me much time when I finally get to fit mine.

Sliced my knuckle open trying to remove my shock from the r6 pivot. Though I was going to have to hunt down some pipe to use as a cheater bar, but half a can of wd40, some brute force and ignorance, and using every extending bar I have later it came undone.

Though I did seem to hear a lot of socket getting dropped on the ground in  your vid.

Excellent video!!  That would have been helpful when I did mine.  So what do you think of the new ride??? 

Oh, if you get a chance you should add your install video and comments into this thread to keep all the R6 stuff together.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=52334.0

Yeah there was a fair bit of socket dropping going on but when I was taking the old shock out we weren't really undoing so ur didn't matter as much. I haven't really had a chance to fully test out, I've gotta check my sag and adjust it all up n yeah but it's baby steps to get used to the new suspension. And yes I will add it all up to the topic. 

Nicely done

good write-up / video    I am currently looking for an R6 shock with the linkage to do this mod as well as Progressive Rate front springs/fork seals, etc.

Quote from: craigs449 on March 31, 2012, 07:13:42 AM
good write-up / video    I am currently looking for an R6 shock with the linkage to do this mod as well as Progressive Rate front springs/fork seals, etc.

Personally I would go for straight rate springs from racetech or sonic. I did a fair bit of research myself and looks like the progressives cancel themselves out pretty quick when you load them up, and are hard to fine tune with sag etc if your really trying to fine tune your setup. ATM im running .85 sonics and the difference they made are so profound, it makes the bike so much better to flick over into the corners and I get an acceptable amount of dive in the front now under heavy braking.

Quote from: slipperymongoose on March 31, 2012, 06:27:17 PM

Quote from: craigs449 on March 31, 2012, 07:13:42 AM
good write-up / video    I am currently looking for an R6 shock with the linkage to do this mod as well as Progressive Rate front springs/fork seals, etc.

Personally I would go for straight rate springs from racetech or sonic. I did a fair bit of research myself and looks like the progressives cancel themselves out pretty quick when you load them up, and are hard to fine tune with sag etc if your really trying to fine tune your setup. ATM im running .85 sonics and the difference they made are so profound, it makes the bike so much better to flick over into the corners and I get an acceptable amount of dive in the front now under heavy braking.

Thanks for the info/insight.......Sonics it will be.  Also, can you post up the OEM part numbers for the Yamaha linkage that you needed to mount the shock please.  Looking at the OEM parts fiche gives me a headache trying to figure out which bolt I will need......

Quote from: craigs449 on April 02, 2012, 06:06:17 AM

Quote from: slipperymongoose on March 31, 2012, 06:27:17 PM

Quote from: craigs449 on March 31, 2012, 07:13:42 AM
good write-up / video    I am currently looking for an R6 shock with the linkage to do this mod as well as Progressive Rate front springs/fork seals, etc.

Personally I would go for straight rate springs from racetech or sonic. I did a fair bit of research myself and looks like the progressives cancel themselves out pretty quick when you load them up, and are hard to fine tune with sag etc if your really trying to fine tune your setup. ATM im running .85 sonics and the difference they made are so profound, it makes the bike so much better to flick over into the corners and I get an acceptable amount of dive in the front now under heavy braking.

Thanks for the info/insight.......Sonics it will be.  Also, can you post up the OEM part numbers for the Yamaha linkage that you needed to mount the shock please.  Looking at the OEM parts fiche gives me a headache trying to figure out which bolt I will need......

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=52334.0

What you wanna know is in that thread with links to other threads if u wanna know more.

Well after a few days of doing the commute I'm more than happy with my upgrade. Going along the highway the back end just feels so planted and the corners feel smooth to go into and throughout. Very happy indeed

Quote from: slipperymongoose on April 04, 2012, 12:28:46 AM
Well after a few days of doing the commute I'm more than happy with my upgrade. Going along the highway the back end just feels so planted and the corners feel smooth to go into and throughout. Very happy indeed

Hey, man. Thanks for posting this video. It made my install this weekend much simpler than it might have been without having first seen you guys chunking away on film.

Some tips for those who are thinking about doing this install:
1. Test the fitment of the new shock to determine the need for a "nip/tuck" on the swing arm BEFORE reinstalling your air box, gas tank, battery box, etc. A good angle grinder cannot fit in between the dangling top-mounted shock and the swing arm. Which leads me to...
2. IF the shock is attached by the top mount point and you have not performed the nip/tuck, a Dremel with a grindings stone, along with a steady hand, can do the job just fine.
3. (Reiteration of slippry's points in the video) Make sure you have all parts needed for the install already, if you plan on riding ASAP once the swap is performed. As slippry said in the vid, the GS top mounting bolt is a direct fit swap, but the bottom mount on the R6 shock is longer and beefier. You need the R6 mount bolt, washer and locking not, AND the R6 pivot collar for it all to work right. The R6 lower pivot collar is the same OD and length as the GS one, but the ID is greater, allowing for the thicker R6 mount bolt to fit tightly. These parts are $15-$20 US at a Yamaha dealer, and they need to be ordered (at least in San Jose, CA), unless you are lucky enough to t get them with the shock.

My GS is mostly re-assembled in the garage, awaiting the arrival of the pivot collar and locking nut (which rolled into the crack in the floor under my workbench).

Great vid, pal!

No worries, yeah we did all the trial fits off camera, some of the newer shocks don't need the nip tuck and others like mine do. And if you notice when I was grinding the swingarm, the shock wasn't in the bike, you can fit a 4" grinder no worries. But yeah make sure you get tge Yamaha parts. Glad it helped.

Installed mine without removing airbox etc.

1. The trick is to raise the rear of the bike so the swingarm drops lower to give more room. I just put a block of wood under the bike & lifted the center stand on it.

2. remove chain guard

Quote from: HPP8140 on April 09, 2012, 07:43:34 AM
Installed mine without removing airbox etc.

1. The trick is to raise the rear of the bike so the swingarm drops lower to give more room. I just put a block of wood under the bike & lifted the center stand on it.

2. remove chain guard

Depending on the shock you get you can go in through the side.  My R6 is from an 09 (re-designed and smaller resevoir) and I was able to drop the stock shock out the bottom of the bike (without removing the dogbones) and install the R6 in through the side.  All I had to do was remove the chain guard and the heel guards and it slid right in (and as you mentioned, block of wood under the rear wheel to raise it up)  Took me 2 days of staring at my bike on and off before I figured that out though   

Does the R6 shock make the bike sit higher or are they the same lenth of the OEM shock?

Same as the OEM 

Hey Fraze11, just curious...since the '09 R6 shock reservoir is smaller, will you still have to grind some of the swing arm for clearance?

The clearance issue is the spring itself do unless the later springs are narrower you might have to grind